chrisjw
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Posts posted by chrisjw
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Have you checked that all of your batteries are fully charged for the receiver & controller?
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Loosen off the nut on the HSN needle (red arrow in pic in link below) & remove it......Make a mark with either a felt tip pen or scratch it on with a screwdriver, above the hole in the needle....Tighten it back up, ensuring that the fuel line nozzle lines up with the mark you made. I had this problem once before & found that the needle hole wasn't properly lined up, so the fuel was reaching the carb from the tank, but wasn't actually getting into the carb.............
http://
http://i933.photobucket.com/albums/ad177/chris_512/HSN Carb Needle_zps3joajrjc.jpg
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If anything, I'd say it's running too lean.............It's everyone to their own with regards nitro v brushless, but I personally, could never be tempted away from nitro.......I love the noise, the smell & above all, the challenge of getting it running right....I'm lucky though, as I've had the same car for 20 years now with the original engine still on it (although I have a spare one too), so I know every nut & bolt on the car & also enjoy stripping it down & rebuilding it...........keep at it.........it's worth it.
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To me, it does sound like the bearing. It may have disintegrated when you tightened up the new flywheel, but that's only my take on it. Hopefully, someone else can be more helpful.
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I'm selling 2 of those atm on ebay. They are both Thunder Tiger Twister 2WD Cars. If anyone has a manual they could photo or scan and upload for it I would much appreciate it.
They have a Twister manual on here, but don't know whether it's the right one...............
http://www.rc-bargains.co.uk/page.html?zenid=4c97ca8c0af7877d744b3381fed0fc94&id=13
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I've just invested in a tube of this jollop.....Haven't used it yet though.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/171795057432?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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If it's spitting fuel from under the head, you could try fitting an extra shim......Also, make sure the head is screwed tight down.
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Don;t use the Hycote hi temp paint. I have used it on exhausts, and until it gets properly baked....it's soft as poop. It's designed to cope with high temperatures which most paints burn off at. No way your chassis should get hot enough to need that
Vinyl wrap will end up tearing on the underside and getting scraped. You can always re-cover. One way to protect it is to get some thin lexan and make an underbody cover. That will protect whatever you use to paint/cover your chassis underside.
I think I'll try some vinyl wrap in that case.
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I'd jus leave the bottom. .unless it's a on road rc I can't see the point. ...as it's gonna look jus as bad in a few runs as it do now....plus. ..who looks at the underside anyway...apart from u...or if it's gonna Iive on a shelf...
It is an on road, but, to be honest, the underside isn't so important I suppose, as I can rub down & spray that from time to time when needed.........It's more the topside, so I think I'll try some of the vinyl wrap.................I just like to keep the car looking as clean & tidy as possible.
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The chassis on my car is 18 years old now & showing signs of wear.........I wanted to tidy it up a bit, particularly the topside of it............Has anyone used either of these products & are they any good?....or is there a better solution..........
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/231369014370?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
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Glad it's sorted..............There had to be a simple solution to the problem, given the fact that the engine is not uncommon...........
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Sweet Chris , i have that same wheel. ( little tip , hold down select - R1 - R3 together and it shifts the wheel into 900 degree mode )
also if you grab a foam golf ball and/or a rubber squash ball. pop it into the hole behind the brake pedal it will make it less OMG screech lockup
gives you a more progressive feel
, or unless you have a set of club sports pedals it does the trick awesome. lol Danny , now i have the wheel and pedals my driving style has become somewhat poor lol.
dont get me wrong i am an awesome driver, but that wheel and pedal set just turn me into a redneck stig truck driver lol.
Assetto corsa is on my wanted list as is project cars.
But first its to get the server software and a phone tethered and running on ETS2. once i know it will work on truck sim
then i will import my brain stuff to the forum and then assetto and Pcars
Thanks for those couple of little tips......Will try them................
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My little set up......................It's getting a bit dated now though...............
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Reading through the OP's post, he doesn't say whether he still has the pullstart that came with the engine when he got it........Unless it never came with one, it which case it stands to reason it must be secondhand...........A picture as requested would certainly be a help, but he hasn't been back since starting this thread over 2 weeks ago, so he either made a mistake with his measurements, or solved the problem.............Either way, it would have been nice to at least let us know.
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Don't need to replace the gasket...just get a tube of silicon type instant gasket. Best thing to seal carb neck and backplate
Would I run the instant gasket jollop around the inside of the manifold itself & then fit the exhaust/manifold over the silicone gasket?..........& likewise, run a bead of instant gasket on the inside of the backplate?
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Bit basic I know but you changed the glow plug ? I know it can affect the tune happened to me before
Yeah, tried that..............I have a new plug in there now, but thanks for the input............
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Yep...the backplate is the bit behind the pullstart. It seals the back of the crankcase.
When you take it off..be careful! Make sure the engine is clutch side down. In the end of the crank where the conrod joins there is a small hole. In this sits a pin and a tiny spring. This is what engages the pullstart via a little notch on the flat end of hte spindle which goes through the rear bearing. If you are not careful, the pin and spring can fall out into the engine.....which is bad if you don't notice.... or on the floor...which can also be bad as you have to go find the damn things!
Manual link...
http://www.ofna.com/pdf/eng-force25-26.pdf
shows the layout. I found out the hard way.......
I've had that apart just now & already learnt from the pin/spring saga from a previous strip down..............lol...........The seal seems fine, as do the 2 o-rings in the carb......One thing I have noticed when starting this engine, is that it revs really high on start up........more so than the other engine, which I presume could point to an air leak......I think I'll order a new silicone manifold gasket & spring too...........That will cancel out any problems with air leaks from there.
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Quick update.............I've just discovered a small split in the concertina rubber cover at the throttle end of the carb....This could well be the cause........Will need to try & source one from somewhere.
*Edit...............I've googled the rubber boot & it doesn't act as a seal, just as a dust preventor, so it won't be that, although a new one is in order, as I've just split it further.
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Air leaks are the usual issue with a motor that won't hold tune. With Force units, it's most likely the backplate o-ring. Also worth sealing the carb neck as well.
I am assuming you have run both motors in the same car to rule out the fuel tank or air leaks on the fuel lines? The 25 I had was massively tolerant of a tune and ran well even when really rich and not tuned at all.
Got to be some issue with this one, and you have covered most of them.. Only other thing I can think of is the front bearing has a failed seal on it.
Yeah, I used the same car on both engines, so have ruled out fuel lines etc.......When you say backplate, do you mean behind the pull start?.....I think I'll strip the engine down & have a good look..........I've started off with the HSN at 3 1/2 turns out from closed & the LSN flush............
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I have 2 Force engines, one .21 & the other .25. I have the .21 tuned to perfection, but the other one is proving an absolute nightmare. It's either too rich or too lean. I just cannot get it running correctly. I've fitted new clutch shoes & springs, a new flywheel, new carb needles & a new exhaust.....& it has good compression.........There's no leaks anywhere & the heatsink is tight on..............It just seems to be one of those engines that refuses to tune properly...........I shall keep persevering, because I refuse to be beaten, but it is starting to do my head in.....................
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Any idea how much use the motor has had? Might be interested if it still has decent compression.
That 2 speed bell housing has my name written all over it....................
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I've used the HPI ones before, and had no problems.
I might have some spare springs knocking about...I'll have a look and see.
My clutch shoe of choice is this one:
http://www.bmmracing.co.uk/hong-lightweight-long-life-shoes-p-2438.html
They come with the right springs. I tend to go 0.9 for better pickup as I am running a fairly torquey motor setup in my trucks which just feels right.
Yeah, I recall you pointing out these shoes before..... If the Answer ones are of any use to you, you are more than welcome. They're from BMM.....................I think I'm more suited to the lighter 0.9 ones too.................The 1mm & above are difficult to slot into the shoes. The problem I have with the Answer ones, is that the short end of the spring is at the wrong angle & too short to fit around the crankshaft.
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I need help sourcing the correct clutch springs for my 3 shoe clutch, as I've discovered they differ...............In the picture below, the spring on the left, is the shape I use (note the angle of the shorter length that pushes against the centre post)....I bought 4 sets of the ones pictured on the right (Answer RC-3's), but they don't fit, as the shorter length is too short & angled wrong.
I've now ordered these, as they look about right...........http://www.modelsport.co.uk/hpi-clutch-spring-set-0.9mm-1.0mm-3-each-/rc-car-products/364655
Can anyone point me in the right direction, as to a supplier apart from the above for decent, lasting springs? ......The ones I have are ok, but cheap, so break quite easily...The engines I use are Ofna Force, with a 2 speed clutch & gears......Thanks.
Would this air filter be ok for a force .28 engine?
in General - Nitro
Posted
I've used those filters on my Force .21 engines for as long as I've had the car (20 years), with no problems at all................