Markswebpages

Thanks mate, no haven't changed it yet. I'll have a rummage see what I've got and maybe experiment. I can't quite decide but are the silver springs supposed to be stiffer? They're shorter but seem to be stiffer under compression. I can't tell the difference between them because the originals are compressed partly on the dampers.

I'm happy with it, it's only running 3s but a 5000mha pack seems to run for ages (haven't timed it properly). I've been out a couple of times with my brother running my Summit and the two together are just perfect. To the point where I've taken the Yeti with me and not even bothered to switch it on. Your E Maxx must be absolutely insane, it just about the most spectacular looking beast I've see on here. I'm hugely envious because half the fun is the build and you've been able to put so much into yours. I just wish I had the funds But I'll just trying and upgrade as I go, first will definitely be a true track rear and bulkheads.

Yes they're much better than I expected to be honest. I'd like to find something a bit softer (more like the stock Summit tyres) for trailing. But for bashing they're almost too grippy, so you have to not expect much in the way of steering under acceleration. Very happy with this rig now, despite the speculation about durability I was jumping it off 4-5ft high access ramps onto a pebble beach the other weekend and and other than splitting the shell it stood up well. My nephew who's still trying to learn and understand rc trucks was literally driving it flat out everywhere (and into everything) and it did it's self proud. I know it's old now with everyone moving on to X maxx and other new bigger scale trucks, but I'm really happy with it. For what it's cost (even with the complete rebuild) I feel it was good value and a great all rounder (it's never going to be an ideal crawler because it has diffs).

I think I'll definitely leave the ARB for now as I mainly use this truck in the woods for gentle bashing and trailing. Took it out with the new wheels for the first time last weekend. Very happy with them, much truer than anything I've had before despite the tyres being used. To my partial surprise the tyres have stayed completely glued and I certainly can't see any signs of them failing. I'm probably not the most hard core basher, but we gave it a good run over some small jumps and rough woodland ground. This video was taken on a trail, but we did a bit of bashing as well. However I now have a new dilemma under acceleration it picks the front up so much the steering becomes very vague. I'm guessing if I can get a program box for the ESC I could make the acceleration a bit more gentle. But is it worth messing around with springs and shock oil. I have no idea what weight shock oil it has but it already has stiffer springs that where fitted by Dave. I find it seems to be about right in terms of running over rough ground it's just the light front I'd like to try and limit a bit. Either way very happy with it now, just need to try and upgrade as I go along. Don't see any need to try 4s so just need to try and toughen it up a bit.

To be honest I can't really see the need for them, but I figured if someone had got to the effort of making them it might have been for a reason. I'll just leave it I think and concentrate on upgrading when and where I can.

Finally got it mounted properly I'll be using the green one and keeping this for the shelf for the time being. Where I brought this Dave very kindly included these Now I wondered what they where until I called Dave and realised it was obvious, they're anti roll bars. However he was as perplexed as I was as to how they fitted. Much Google searching ensued and as far as I can make out they mount like this. Through here but just lose not fixed by a clamp Then you have to drill a hole through here (I'd imagine the best bet is just big enough that it self taps into the material rather the bolt right through). They're quite old and information is difficult to find, but the discussions I found seemed to suggest that drilling the hole doesn't massively effect the strength of the wishbone. Not sure whether to give it a go or not to be honest, looks interesting but will I just waste my time. The long term plan is for a true track setup so not worried about it failing particularly, wishbones are cheap enough anyway if I just wanted to get back to square one. Has anyone seen this before and will I just ruin the handling a perfectly usable truck.

Right haven't drilled it properly for the posts, so it's just resting on top. I'm pleased with it, my patience with masking is very short and I've zero artistic skill. Can't decide if I like the silver bonnet bulge or not, but I didn't have any black Sorry the pictures aren't great, but it gives you an idea.

Painted up the spare shell I got because the first one had a flaw in the side. These HPI shells are rubbish, this replacement sent by HPI still has a crease in the side and is very thin in places. Anyway thought I might as well use it as I had some paint and need some practice. Needs finishing off with some decals, but hopefully it'll suit the alloys better.

Oh and here is a picture of them all on the truck. My other shell (same style as the current one) is trimmed up and will be a dark purple, which will suit these wheels better.

Well there's an interesting thing. I read up on the SPI web site and it simply said to use a contact adhesive, so I just brought some evo stick (the proper branded stuff) from my local hardware store. I wasn't really convinced about it to be honest, but I went ahead and tried it anyway. I'll see how they look tomorrow but I'm not holding my breath. I checked quickly just a while ago and they do seem stuck. I also ran the truck up with the wheels off the ground just to see how true they where and the tyres didn't pop off (although they've been well taped inside). To be completely honest I've been a bit doubtful about using them since I started thinking about how to bond them on. After all you're trying to bond rubber to a fairly smooth non porous aluminium surface and that's never going to be easy (even if you rough the aluminium up a bit). I'm also pretty limited tyres wise as they're not a Traxxas style rim. So I've ended up fitting the HPI tyres that I got with them, they're in very good condition but they are used, I just couldn't bring myself to try new tyres when I'm not convinced about getting a good bond between rubber and aluminium. Time will tell I guess, if they seem reasonably well bonded I'll give then a try and see what happens. To be honest I might try it once more with a different adhesive if they fail but after that I think I'll just chalk it up to experience, put the rims in a draw and move on to looking for a wheel and tyre combo from proline.

Soo just for the benefit of those who briefly followed this thread and because I hate threads without an end. Here they are finally with the centre turned out on a lathe. I'll post some pictures up tomorrow when I've glued the HPI tyres on I have as I don't have an alternative and I haven't really got any funds for anything else.

Sorry I missed this, just running around it the woods really. Light bashing and trailing. Nothing hardcore for sure, but it sounds like the problem will be trying to keep a decent size without a huge rotating mass. The other problem is these are not a Traxxas style bead which limits me to almost nothing that is proline.

Finally a lot longer than I anticipated, I went and picked these up! Tomorrow will be spent gluing the HPI tyres I have on to these, as I can't really think of a better alternative that isn't designed to fit a Traxxas bead. Still loving this truck, it's great on 3s and on a 5000mha pack just seems to go on forever. Just what I wanted from the beginning, it's only drawback is the diffs don't like loose ground (but I'm hoping to try a thick oil in them so any advice greatly received). I'll paint up the other shell as I have it anyway, but go for a different look because of these wheels. Then an RPM true track kit, front wishbones and rear bulkhead is next as and when time or funds allow.

Losi Comp Crawler (requires rx&tx, motor and ESC.) I'm sure some of you will have seen this recently in the for sale section. I paid £100 for it but it's just not for me. So here it is. I would like £75 (open to offers, just want it gone now), plus fees and shipping. I have installed a turnigy high torque steering servo, aluminum servo horn, (slightly used) dig servo. It's like new has a few small scratches underneath and slightly grubby tyres. Will come in box (the box was used to send it last time and will be used this time).

I pm'd him two days ago but haven't got a response. Hopefully he'll get back to one or the other of us Sent from deep space

Try that, if you're interested I'm in Thatcham so maybe a meeting could be possible to save posting. Pm me and we'll see if we can sort a deal out. Sent from deep space

http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/index.php?/topic/209528-Markswebpages-my-Axial-Yeti-experience. Sent from deep space

Would you be interested in a Yeti? It's broken a front hub, but I'm about to order the parts (probably in alloy) to repair. Otherwise in good condition. Has a few upgraded parts. Thread here.

I know it's a bit of a crappy video and I've also shared it on my T Maxx thread, but here is the Summit in it element. Did exactly what it want it to do which was run for ages. Yet again it was the only one of three buggies to not fail in some way, Very happy with the conversion. So next on the list is some better LiPo's and a new shell. Oh and the Tekin ESC currently in the for sale section is kinda tempting as it opens up a whole world of options. As always thought it'll just have to be as and when I can find funds.

The E Maxx looks incredible buddy, very jealous indeed. Now go get it dirty lol, I love mine it's great fun for just charging around in the woods. Yours should be insane and almost indestructible! They're SPI Racing wheels, designed for a Savage as far as I can tell. Just waiting on a mate sticking them on a lathe to make the centre hole a bigger diameter so they fit the Summit fixings I have, that was an option when you ordered them new so no big deal. However they have what you could call a HPI style bead I guess, that's why it's tricky trying to find anything as proline seem to make everything with a Traxxas style bead. As I say if you have anything left over just give me a shout, especially anything suspension related. Great work and keep it up it very interesting to read and gives me some inspiration.

Yeah I think I'll leave it to be honest. I want to just concentrate on making it better as I go now.

Last time I did something like that I was holding the thing. I'll try and find a picture but it burned my hand and took weeks to heal lol. Always wheels off the ground and clear of anything whenever I'm plugging stuff in now. This a few days after.

Looks good mate, hope you enjoy running it. Despite mine being stock and only running 3s i've been having great fun with it, it's definitely a keeper. I've been having a wheel and tyre dilemma too, I was just about to start trying to figure out what to do so the information on your thread has been helpful. I got the feeling that those proline trenchers where a bit ott, it's kinda put me off trying them on my Summit as well. The problem I have is these Have a different bead to these And God only knows what size would fit the alloys as they don't have a Traxxas style bead. I think I'll end up having to choose from HPI in which case I might as well use what I hot with them from the previous owner. Just thinking about it makes my head hurt. Have you got any stuff left over you might want to sell? Drop me a pm if you have

Yes to be honest I kind of knew I was being lazy, I never really intended going as far a I did even. However it's something that I should have just done as I know for automotive paint that cleanliness is important to avoid problems. I've had some great results with Tamiya in the past and I don't think you can better their range of colours and finishes. I know what you're saying about the second gear. I'm not so much worried about getting over stuff, but about being able to run a bit slower without the need for really feathering the throttle. It will also be getting used by my nephew and God daughter and I find the low speed gear is a much easier way of giving then something easier to use. I can then literally flick a switch when they hand it back. I'm toying with the idea of locking one of the old diffs up somehow and trying it in the rear, I'm not sure it'll help the handling much but it might just give it a bit more traction on lose ground. I had a HPI wheely king with locked diffs once and I ended up removing them because the turning circle was so bad.

Sfs