jb.
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Posts posted by jb.
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I've got one of these on a TA 02 rolling chassis. How much are they worth as looking to sell. Ta!
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Sadly not.
A few have used the HPI quad bike rider instead. An alternative is fill the rider with expansion foam.
Ultimately he is a bit fragile for the job but he helps the forward roll cartwheels you'll occasionaly do so leave him on the bike!
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You'll need the steering springs back installed. You can try the 'direct drive' but the front end needs to waggle and 'find its way' over the bumps. I'd move the front scratchbar mount to the rearward mounting place to the hole a cm or so back (above the fan).
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Remove the front wheel. Just pull the tyre off the rim. Crimp a run of lead tape around that centre rib either side and spot dab with TC tyre glue. Refit tyre snugly. Spot dab same. On the Either side of the spokes is a useful part of the 'inner rim'where you can park another run around with lead tape and spot dab glue.
Takes time (usually does) but pays off in better directional stability, esp. with wick motors.
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All the above!
If you have a 1/8 buggy suitable steering servo to hand then bung that in as the stock servo is a bit pathetic! Ensure that the steering horn is set 90 degrees to the steering
rod and re-centre the steering collects. (They should be measuring 17mm either side of the slider).
Go mad and spend £3:19 by searching this: 1 x 51" inches (1.3mtrs) Adhesive Lead Tape Golf. Free 1st class post (uk) NEW
Wrap it around the centre rib on both sides of the front wheel, then around the inner rim. As a combo they track along (with the gold damped forks and servo) far better, especially along the rough bits. Getting the very light front end to behave more confidentley needs weight and it is a better 'Damper'.
If you an find an Erevo shock with the blue coded spring then you can get a better rear end to match. Me and Whitham69 used 10w in the front and 45-80 ish in the back with the stock spring length.
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Is there any details as to when it's running this year?
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Use the stuff Anderson provided. You can pursue your idea but I do not recommend it. The front wheel has to 'find its way' over the bumps. The moment you remove that then the handling goes to rat sh....
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Oil weights. F=10w R=3000w if it's the standard blue anodized shock. If you have the eRevo shock with blue coded spring then anything from 40w to 3000w depending on the surface. Getting the rear shock set up properly is key to really help in making this bike work.
The steering damper I'd advise 10w, maybe lighter (or even just plain old air). I'd recommend removing it and fitting a servo suitable for an 1/8 buggy or truggy. Far better steering and you can always fit the damper if it still waggles.
Go mad and spend £2.19. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-x-51-inches-1-3mtrs-Adhesive-Lead-Tape-Golf-Free-post-uk-NEW-/152036011584?hash=item23660d6e40:g:TvMAAOxyeR9TJfWE
Use it around the front rim both sides and then remove the tyre and crimp a run either side of the raised rib. It seemed to help keep the front end down a bit and help dampen any waggles.
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Set your steering so when you turn left on the Tx, the bike wheel turns right.
Don't hold the steering on! Turn the steering briefly to initiate the turn and then let go of the steering and use throttle to continue the turn. More throttle picks the bike up and straightens you out, less throttle will make the bike turn tighter. With a large smooth and stone free car park it is entirely possible to do 'laps' without ever having touched the steering.
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Just out of interest, just what are the Rossa speed records held by the bikes?
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Go to Craigavon one sunday. There are bike boys there ready and willing to give you the time to help guide your choice.
www.craigavonmcc.co.uk
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DO NOT loctite the axle bolts! Makes it a pain later upon removal.
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Now open to bike members.
Best news ever as Skipton won't be holding any races anytime soon and Halifax is a great track for bikes.
So stop reading this and join!
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Yes it is possible, however...
you'll need an Anderson M5 to get the front and rear ends with wheels and you'll need to make your own metal fuel tank. That in essence is what Ian G did to create the nM5.
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http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/Motorcycles-/147161/i.html is the place to look.
As a coincidence there is one going in 3 hours... (Not mine I hasten to add).
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''this time it made a high pitch noise but the chain never moved''
This says to me that the grubscrew holding the front sprocket in position needs tightening, or the pinion mesh on the motor/spur gear is way off, or the spur gear pin has gone awol, or the spur gear has split, or the grubscrew holding the pinion on the motor shaft needs tightening.
As for the chain jumping problem, I can offer no immediate solution. I have a well worn slack as Alice chain and it never jumps off. A picture might help out. Use photobucket, imageshack et al.
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If you want a used standard GPV with very lightened rider then you can have mine
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The best advice for all those who are interested in going racing is to go to either a National meeting or to a club day at Aldershot/Southend/Cotswolds.
You'll be able to chat about it with anyone there, they can give you time to answer your queries.
If you're wanting a chat on the forums, then you need to go to moto-5.com as this is where the racers are to be found. Ask what you like there, you'll get the answers you need. We all were new to bikes once so no one will bat an eyelid when you ask the basic questions. The bike crew are the best friendliest bunch around!
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It appears you have done what you needed to when you followed the manual.
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Metal ones don't break! The plastic ones either hold on and never need touching, or they split. That one is down to pure luck (much like OWBs seem to be). The plastic spur that comes as part of the slipper clutch assembly from the M5 Race seems to be of a better plastic and has held up to the abuse for over a year now.
Quick query. Did you re mesh the pinion when you fitted the steel spur?
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I implore you all to try this event, whether you feel race ready or not.
It really is as good as this!
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#Alloy front suspension setup has arrived from the US....and is now fitted. ~Front suspension.....with DAMPING! Luxury
Read that and had a flashback to when I gained 'The magic carpet ride'.
You should notice that the front of the battery tray doesn't clop and try to dig in on bumpy ground quite as much.
Edit: Shumacher had a clearout of old stock late 2012, that's when I bought a few rider shells. It would be annoying if there wasn't still some kind of UK supply for bits though. I think though that this boils down to sales (or maybe lack of) when they were first imported and pushed upon model shops everywhere with a way over
Controlfreax Metro 6R4
in Rallying
Posted
Thanks for letting me know. It's been a shelf queen for too long. 😀