jb.

Simple answer. Experiment trackside and see what you prefer! Long answer: This will vary according to the surface you run on and the conditions. There is no set length to cut to, just make sure they are not too short as to cause the footpegs to grind and catch. Too short also makes it extremely difficult to pick up from rest and can 'bounce' you off your lines because of a lack of flex. Ideally you should have a few pairs of bars of differing length in the pit box. You can also have long bars bent up which can flex a bit but still give a good lean angle. Are you using 5mm nylon 6.6 bar?

With my 4350Kv (9t) motor, it seems that first 1/8 of throttle travel that gets me into trouble with the wheelie tendency. Once it's rolling then things are a (little) easier. The slipper clutch does help my numb thumbs quite a bit! For

When you crash and have to pick the bike up, get into the habit of topping out the gyro speed before launching off again or you will be fighting the ground much more as the gyro is underperforming or even making the problems worse.

You can fit an M5 Race slipper clutch to tame the wheelie tendency. Only

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251376891233 Atomik Brian Deegan Metal Mulisha MM450. This is the original version that came with the e-gyro esc. All in good working order and painted up. 6mm Nylon scratchbar conversion done and footpegs removed for better cornering. Also has the M5 steel front sprocket conversion done. The rider has lost half of his right foot and the rear mudguard has split in the usual way hence the black tape at the rear. It just requires a Tx/Rx and battery with a Deans connector and you are away.

5mm Nylon bars. http://www.directplasticsonline.co.uk/Nylon66Rod/Natural/5mm/ Drill the mounts 5mm and fit. Job done. Lasts ages, doesn't snap on contact with other bikes, kerbs...

I've looked at the EB4 (could have had one for

Having helped in a small way to set up EastCoast Nitro ( https://www.facebook.com/groups/376175025780259/ ) I know how difficult things can be. Just one is a matter of trying to ''please everyone'' by catering for all scales. 1/10 tracks are vastly different from 1/5 tracks.. Even 1/8 tracks can eliminate the two scales either side. Our track is full LSOR track width rules but we banned 1/5 after our only demonstration of one. (It wasn't a very good demo of a10kg potential leg breaker). So it will be difficult to please everyone, as any choice in even the design of a couple of corners can put differing scales at a disadvantage and stop potential people turning up. There are many other factors of track design that can be pros/cons. Potential noise issues, access, facilities, rent... the list is a long one and can be never ending. I just wonder why not support http://www.mmrx-wakefield.co.uk/4601.html http://www.nookraceway.com/ or http://batleybuggyclub.com/ Clubs have been struggling a lot and many have folded. Setting up anew will be bloody difficult. If you do get up and running, I'd like to visit (I'll be moving back to Leeds when the house sells).

Hi all. I've been pondering my first proper purchase of something with four wheels and like the way that 1/8 buggies get around. Trouble is I'm not over keen on their looks, but I'd ADORE something with a Group B rally shell, say a 6R4, S1 Sport Quattro or even a Stratos or Issigonis Mini with wide arches. Are they available from anyone? I have seen a 1/8 road car with a Subaru shell but it looked too short and wide, and I'm not a fan of the BMW 'Mini' so that's out too...

You'll need to do a few tweaks. Look on www.rcgroups.com/motorcycles-183/ for Dez Chands GPV hints and tips thread, then get some grippy tyres as the stock ones are as hard as nails and not good for typical UK temperatures.

Oops, forgot to put that trick in Bonzo! It's just something I do without thinking about these days... *WARNING* Be careful where the 'top hats' go. Do this over a large white fluffy towel and you have a better chance of not losing them due to fridge suck*. (* The ability of heavy white domestic goods to attract particularly small, expensive or difficult to obtain parts from vast distances. Yet to be explained by current scientific principles).

Put the bolt you removed back in, and nip it up just enough to get the stubborn side moving, then undo the easy side. A rubber grommet fitted under the bolt head of the easy side should help as well. You are not spinning the gyro, it's the whole axle that is rotating. Once you have the technique sorted, it gets easier!

If you buy direct from Atomik, you will need to buy an esc for the gyro as well. Details here. http://www.rcdirtbikeaction.com/1060/replacement-mm450-e-gyro-esc/

You get a neat little letter a few weeks later. Costs for me last year were about