suicideneil

The charger cant tell you how much capacity your batteries have, it doesnt work like that; it can only tell you how many mah it pumped back in during the charge. Every time you stop & restart the charge the mah displayed on the charger will reset to zero. Set the charge rate ( in amps ) to match the lipo's capacity in mah- 1amp = 1000m ah, so for a 5000mah lipo that's 5amp, 4500mah = 4.5amps etc etc; you dont need to worry about slow charging lipos.

For what it is that charger will work fine, it'll just take an hour or slightly longer to charge each 2s lipo ( max charge rate is 4amps, so for a 5000mah lipo say, it will take 20% longer than charging a 4000mah lipo ). If you want to get into the realms of dual chargers or fast charging, click my sig for the tutorials section, then read up on the part for lipo chargers & charging- covers all the bases regards selecting dual-channel chargers, power supplies and wiring etc.

Click my sig, in the tutorials section there is a whole sub-section dedicated to the LVC options; I favour the stand-alone buzzer types over things like the novak smart stop ( no wiring needed + adjustable usually ). THIS kinda thing works perfectly even when they arent adjustable ( 3.2-3.4v per cell settgin is fine ), just plugs into one of the lipos ( see below ) and away you go. All I will say though is consider your lipo choices carefully- most guys soon want to upgrade to a BL setup so it's worth getting decent spec lipos now to run with the brushed setup, so that they'll still be fine to use with the BL setup later; I always recommend 30-40c 5000mah 2s lipos as a rough guide line.

Cheers guys, to address a few points: 'Bling' is a subjective term, I would normally associate it with companies like Integy who produce attractive, but horrible quality aluminium parts. The metal parts on my trucks are purely functional ( lightweight chassis & much stronger bumper guards on the TXT-1 for example, and low CoG chassis, greatly reinforced front & rear ends plus suspension parts that greatly improve handling on the Gmaxx )- they all get bashed a fair bit & crashed too- not as cheap or simple to replace extinct parts so I tend to drive more carefully these days. The wheels and tires on the TXT-1 are Imexrc Jumbo diamond rims & Jumbo Clawdawgs: http://www.imexrc.com/servlet/the-191/IMEX-DIAMOND-CHROME-RIMS/Detail http://www.imexrc.com/servlet/the-13/imex-tires/Detail They have other 'jumbo' sized options for tires and rims under the truck sub-sections in the tire & rim sections. The pricing on them isn't too bad really, but importing them is the killer due to VAT & parcelfarce's handling charges. Worth noting though that Kyosho madforce/ twinforce & monster pirate rims are the same size, plus they use a 17mm hex vs the Imex 14mm hex. I do need to get out and drive them more though, haven't made any vids for a long time- there are several on my site, some not as terrible as others...

I've been out in the wilderness, saving noobs & newbs from their own inexperience ( and the evil clutches of maxamps.. ), but now I think it's time to post my builds on a 'home' forum for all to see First up, I had a Tamiya Madbull about ~13 years ago, fun little thing with a 17t motor on 6 cells but terrible on grass, so that got sold after a year or 2 ( no pics ). Next I decided on a Tamiya TXT-1 and went to town with the upgrades- in all I spent

Yep, brushless is the future. There are so many brushless options these days its silly, but with a little research you can find agood setup for your needs without having to remortage.

Im new here, yes. However, Im an old hand at RC (most of you were probably in nappies still when I got my first Rc...). Had a Madbull, did some minor upgrades, like new steering rod thingy, removed a bit of front bulkhead thingy, added 15turn motor, got bored sold it for 70 quid. Now I have a TXT-1, known on BYT as the Raven (its big, black and flies, go figure). Here are a few pics: If you wanna look at the build up and zillion or so mods/upgrades: http://robotwars.00server.com Cheers.