gavin28
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Posts posted by gavin28
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Stampede gets my vote, never owned one but i have both 2WD trucks and 4x4 trucks, the 2WD barely get used
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I'm local to Fleetwood (Bispham). If you want, i can see if any of my spares fit, got a few backplates etc, could even swap you a pull-start engine if you wanted too
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the HPI ones are different (better quality) to the cheapo ones, but i use the cheapo ones with decent cord and not had one break yet. I use 1 mm for my small block engines and 1.5 mm for my big blocks
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Only had an older x1, but the quality is great. I've yet to break anything during heavy bashing, bent a few things like shock towers but I just straightened them again in a a vice. I'd get an x3 if I wanted a new buggy too, no hesitations.
Sent from my D5803 using Tapatalk
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TrackStar TS4G, cant get better for the price, It a rebrand of the RadioLink RC4G, I've got one and cant fault it. Here's a good thread with more info and prices etc if you have never heard of them.
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Clutch tool Make changing 3 shoe clutches easier, especially when you're using 1.1mm springs
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or
Charger 2 if you want to charge both together
There's loads of choice for chargers, depends on what else you want it to charge, now or in the future (LiPo, LiFe, NiMh, transmitter etc).
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Nice kit but are they safe to use ?? As in the site
Yes mate, I've ordered from there myself, i got the battery box and roll cage kit for about
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Just get a bellcrank servo saver set up off the later savages, like this kit, you get both upgrades your after then, plus the latest stronger/longer lasting turnbuckles.
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I've had that draper set, only kept it for a few weeks before i gave them away to the apprentice (motorcycle mechanic BTW).
There cheap and nasty really, not up to the quality im used to. Irwin is a good brand, better quality than the draper set. Never seen/used Inbus stuff before so cant comment on them.
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My first thought was gummed up carb, after 5 years any remaining fuel left in the carb would be well and truly gummed up! I would take the HSN out and the LSN and leave the carb and needles soaking in some fresh nitro fuel for a while and then blow it all out,refit needles and reset to factory settings and tune from there once running.
I also would have checked the engine bearings before trying to start as any loose rust would quickly ruin the piston and liner.
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You probably just need to get it warmed up properly, idling isn't the best way as it just loads up the crankcase with oil and you get bogging like you experienced. Get it started and gently blip the throttle with the wheels off the ground for a few seconds then run it around for a few minutes, being gentle and not using full throttle until its warmed up.
Remember the engines are tuned when up to operating temperature, the tune is all wrong when cold, but that's just the way it is.
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Cheap upgrades for your savage would be the roll cage and the better battery box off the later models if its still got the one with the 3 R-Clips keeping the lid on which are a pain.
I bought this kit, about
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Should be a straight swap, you will have to remove the flywheel and clutch from your old engine and install on the new one, but that's about it.
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I've used RB fuel, the 15% Car and the 25% Buggy fuels, both far superior to the optifuel equivalents (16% RTR and 25% Race) in my experience. More power, easier starting, less oily but more expensive. I've since moved over to VP powermaster fuels due to the cheaper prices. Can't really tell the difference compared to the RB fuel apart from the colours and price.
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OFNA is just a US distributor for Hong Nor, Hoboa, Force engines etc, that head button will fit.
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Be careful with SKF, Timken, Fag...... bearings on ebay around 99% are fake,
Being an Authorised SKF, NSK,FAG,INA, NTN,SNR, KOYO distributor myself their is only 6 genuine distributors in the UK and not one of us sells on ebay, so where they are coming from is anyone's guess, last year alone SKF seized over 100 million in fake bearings
http://www.acorn-ind.co.uk/blog/post/2011/03/16/Counterfeit-SKF-bearings-seized-in-UK.aspx
https://thecounterfeitreport.com/product/271/Timken-Bearings.html
Most people wouldn't think they would bother copying bearings but it is a multi billion
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There are good and bad turnigy ones, the ones i linked to are the good ones, the others they sell are crap (black handles and also bronze coloured tip ones, especially the 6-in-1 tools). If you had the same as mine and rounded them out then you must of had a bad set, mine are used daily and all hexes are still perfect after over 12 months use. A friend also has a set and his are still as new like mine are.
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Turnigy for me too, these ones, perfect fit in screws, never rounded out a screw yet with these.
I have Snap-on, Facom, Beta tools etc as i'm a mechanic by trade, but these were so cheap that i had to try them.
They have lasted very well, i'm always stripping my RC cars down and these have seen plenty of abuse including using a 17mm spanner on them to undo loctited screws (seam to be designed for this), even the 1.5mm has stood up to this when getting grub screws out, but its usually the 3mm i do this with when removing engines.
The hollow handles are also useful for storing screws and glow plugs in if you take them out while bashing (The top pops off them)
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How long is a piece of string?
Dont know what cars you have but a typical 1/8th tank is 150ml, lasts for about 8 mins or so, but depends on many factors including tune, how much you mash the throttle, gearing, terrain etc
so for every litre you may get around 1 hours running time, give or take.
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I ran OS#8's last winter without issue, but it was a mild one. I have hot, medium and cold plugs, the hot ones only really get used in my TRX .12 engine (OS LC3), my big block engines run OS#8's normally, unless its really warm, then i switch to a cold plug.
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The MTA4 S50 is
Gs Storm ..
in General - Nitro
Posted
I've got an old GS Storm RTR from 2004, still going strong but has had the upgraded hinge pin mod from the latest model. I wouldn't recommend one over a hyper 7 though due to the limited supply of parts.
I also have a GS Storm CLX kit, its in a completely different league. Much better than the RTR, more modern design and much higher quality materials that are really durable. I bought mine used with enough spares to build another and still have spares left over, but its not broken once yet! The RTR usually breaks a suspension arm during the same treatment and as these are hard to get hold of now and im on my last set, I've retired the RTR to the shelf.
Just remember that if you buy a kit you will need an engine and servos.