gavin28

I've never used a clutch removal tool, just my tuning screwdriver to remove and install, or a bigger one when installing with 1.1mm springs, but i doubt you have them as standard.

in that case, it could be striped splines on the servo horn, knackered servo, or like said, fail safe set wrong by mistake.. Good luck and if you need any more help just ask

yeah, remove the throttle servo horn, turn Tx (transmitter) and Rx (receiver) on, set throttle trim to 0 on the Tx and refit throttle horn making sure the carb is closed i.e in the neutral position.

If you get a metal one, you may have to upgrade the clutch bell to a hardened steel one too if its not got one already. There;'s usually nothing wrong with plastic spur gears, they will last for gallons if meshed correctly. If you have stripped it, then find out why and fix that first, its good to have a cheap easily replaceable weak spot, better a cheap spur gear than a diff striping out etc.

I was looking at that, but decided i would rather the extra features than the ability to charge 8 at a time, i have a cheap 8 cell charger (50p from car boot sale) but never used it. Glad i spent the extra fiver on the AccuPower one, like i said its paid for its self by reviving old batteries which were considered dead.

Yup, its 0WD in its current form I dont see what people are bidding on, to me its not even worth the postage!

Were going to need a better quality pic then that If the engines starting, but the car isn't moving, then it should be easy to work it out. Is the clutch bell spinning? is the spur gear spinning? are the drive shafts spinning? etc Just work your way from the engine and see what's not working/missing.

Mine has paid for its self by reviving old batteries that were "dead" and not holding a charge, its also good for spotting fake batteries from eBay I have AA and AAA rechargeable in everything in my house, from clocks to Xbox controllers, my kids can go though a pair of Duracell AA's every 2 days in their game controllers, (Wii, Xbox etc), so

All silicone oils should be the same quality, as they are supposedly 100% silicone oil, the only difference is the viscosity, and the way it is measured. "weight" or "w" is not a recognised international standard, there is no standard for measuring what viscosity 30w silicone oil is, it's up to the manufacturers to decide what to put on the bottle. So if using oils sold as "weight" its best to stick to the same brand, otherwise tuning shocks and diffs becomes confusing. For example, Brand X's 30w, could be the same as Brand Y's 35w and Brand Z's 25w. I prefer buying oils in CPS, as its an recognised international standard, with standard ways of measuring the viscosity. So Brand X's 500cps, should be very close to Brand Y and Z's 500cps.

SH .28 3 port

I use Chrome, never had a problem

I have the Accupower IQ328, very similar and used all the time in my house, also used for charging my Tx batteries

Its either lower engine mounts if that's a possibility with your engine/chassis or a bigger flywheel if possible (check the clearances around you current one and see if you can go a little bigger, some engine cant as the flywheel would hit the carb) Changing flywheels is easy if you have the right tools. These are cheap if you dont have something better.

There's usually no need to replace the crankshaft, they don't wear out normally, its the bronze bush in the conrod that wears out, not the hardened steel crank pin. Also i would have an SH engine over a Force engine any day of the week, I've seen 2 cranks snap at the pin on .25 force engines, both with only 2 - 3 gallons on them and still running perfectly well until then. They both had that stupid spring and pin in the hollow crank pin, so it seams they have a built in weak spot.

Model technics make numerous blends of fuel, only 3 of which i would use (if i had no other choice), BigBang, Zzip and Dynaglo, the rest seam unsuitable for cars or have too much oil content ( i prefer 9%-11%). You can get fuel delivered from most model shops like Modelsport or here

Rebuilt means replacing the piston, conrod and liner, usually the bearings too. Sometimes its cheaper to just buy a new engine though depending on how much you can get the parts for. Bearings are cheap, but the other parts can add up to the price of a new engine.

Didn't get chance to get photos today, will hopefully get some tomorrow, but did find one of the kyosho Tx in my photobucket album. Hows

I always check/reset carb settings with new or used engines, i don't leave my engines fate in someone else hands It should have been set up to run rich from new, but sometimes there not, I've seen a new engine (a mates) with the idle gap set to about 3mm, (about 1/4 throttle) which if i hadn't checked it over for him, would of rev'd its tits off when he went to start it.

A leaking exhaust gasket wont affect compression, but can cause it to run lean and run hotter then usual. If the brakes are binding, it's either the trim setting on the transmitter or the linkages need adjusting.

Standard settings are just a guide to get you running for break-in, they are usually very rich settings, and rarely run great - its just a starting point for tuning.

150c is likely too hot for your engine, but i would get confirmation off someone with your engine, as i have never run a hyper engine before. A would change fuel, as like i said, if will bellow out smoke even when very lean. The Optifuel race mix is good, (less oil, so less smokey, runs cooler and more power) it's just that i prefer VP fuel or RB fuel. It just depends on what's available locally to you. Won't do any harm resealing the engine if you suspect an air leak

I will weigh them too and get you a price for postage, i know the last one i sold was

The Hoboa one is complete, the Fubata ones i'm not so sure, i seam to remember at least 1 has the battery cover missing. like i said i have a few, i will get them all out tomorrow and photo them all for you and you can take your pick. The futaba ones you can have for free, just pay the extra postage if necessary. The Hoboa one, i would want

if your running with optifuel RTR, then it will still emit plenty of smoke even when lean, you cant tune by smoke with that fuel. I used to use it when i first started in the hobby, but went to the Race mix which was loads better, no where near as smokey. I now use VP Powermaster fuel, my engines run better and a touch cooler too.

I have an Alpha Z852, fantastic engine, loads of top end power if that's your thing. Fastest engine I've yet to see/use.