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DeadMeatUK

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Posts posted by DeadMeatUK

  1. How do they very you're not running a 30.5 cc version of the 290?


    The scrutineers have the right to ask you to take the head off to check. Suppose you could measure the stroke with a vernier in the plug hole?? They only need to check you are not using a +2mm crank


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  2. Because I’m racing BRCA I have to be 30cc or less. I started by buying the KM ported rebuild kit from rcModelZ with the intention of using my old 29.5 Scott Finlay. However, I stripped the threads in the flywheel cover and the carb is not great. So I brought an ESP lightened piston and stock 29 Zenoah for the parts! With the stock crank I have a 28.5cc and ditched the head gasket to keep the compression up

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    I’m pleased with how it turned out . It does respond quick and at some point, I will port the Zenoah head. I do want to get an Oddie clutch so I don’t have to worry about broken springs and wear



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  3. I made my own tray to save a couple of ££ The first one was too thin and broke, it also had nut and bolted servos which meant a full strip down to replace a servo. This one is thicker and tapped so servos are easily replaced trackside. BTW I don’t go through many servos, when they do go it’s normally water damage. So far I’ve been able to dry them out and have replaced the transistors for higher current rating [emoji846]


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  4. I haven’t done any updates for a while as there hasn’t been much interest in this thread. That said, I can confirm the 30DNT from rcModelZ is a very capable truck. At Zenoah Challenge Cup I qualified straight into the final and finished 9th overall. Would have done better but I replaced the clutch spring and left the bolts loose in the clutch housing, one backed out and locked against the rear disc [emoji53] I’ve also had a few runs at my local track. I’ve been playing with the camber gain and shock positions in my quest for grip in the wet


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  5. Servo tray is finally done. It is made from a 4mm aluminium sheet, and is the third version I’ve made, the first two for my Losi but was from 2mm and both cracked.

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    From here, other than the battery tray, it’s straight forward assembly. As I have to run a hard pack lipo, I have binned the battery box for a Velcro plate that I can cable tie the pack onto. This also enables me to do away with a switch and simply unplug the battery. I’ve thrown in my old engine because I want to run it tomorrow. However, I will be finishing it trackside at Rd3 of the winter series. Not going to win, just giving it a gentle shakedown for ZCC.



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  6. I’ve been busy trying to get the diff mount to work with the modified rc booted rotor[emoji2955]
    The rotor is a little thicker so I used some cut down washers to space out the pad. The 30DNT dog bone pin is a fraction longer than Losi, so I ground a bit off. Happy with my work, I assembled with silicone grease, fitted the boot and realised there wasn’t space for the cable tie! I decided the best thing would be to cut away the ‘calliper’ to make room

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    Now to make the servo tray...


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  7. My first race is Zenoah cup so I’m using a different diff setup. All three had plenty of oil and I have reassembled using bearing retainer on the diff and housing to spread the end float forces across both bearings. This is because the pinion and crown gear are trying to push apart under load. I’ve then used heat shrink on the drive cups and fitted trimmed boots over the top. For the centre diff, I wanted a split diff mount to speed up track side maintenance times so I’ve gone for FID v3. However, I will be using a Modified rc booted rotor for the front drive cup. I have know idea if it will have the stopping power I require? All parts available at rcModelZ.co.uk and use discount code Teamrcmz [emoji106]

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  8. The truck is out of the box and in the ‘workshop’ well more of a small shed! but never mind at least there’s not much space to heat. It is stripped and had time to reflect on the build quality. It was surprisingly well put together, the diffs was the only parts that could have been better. They had oil but was notchy, once stripped, it was the planet gear shafts was tight in the housing but I’m sure that would have loosened up after a short run? I’ve owned two new Losi 5’s and it equalled the how it has been assembled. I can see where they have saved money, the finish of some of the parts are a little rough, possibly from blunt and overused tooling? However, the appearance means nothing to lap times so i would prefer to spend the money on something that will. All in all, I’m very happy with the purchase and see it as a better alternative to repairing my very worn out Losi.

    The next update is when it starts getting interesting... The rebuild...

     

    All the parts and truck are available at rcModelsZ.co.uk and use code teamrcmz for 5% off

     

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    • Like 1
  9. This year I will be driving this beast in the 2019 large scale off road national series thanks to rcModelZ.co.uk and TEAMRCMZ. Follow me for updates on the build and unavailing of my 2019 livery
     
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  10. I've been using them for two years in nitro, petrol and transmitters and they have been perfect. I can keep them charged without noticeable cell degrading and I haven't blown any up, which is nice! 

    However, for brushless power, I wouldn't touch anything other than Li-po  

  11. I believe charge rate is 1c, however I charge at 0.5c because the wiring so too small to charge any higher

    they are 4.1v per cell and will need the charger setting accordingly 

    i don't know the max discharge voltage? I do know that they are very forgiving to over discharge 

    I've never storages charged one! They don't suffer cell breakdown like Lipo's, mine have been fully charged for two years and still work! I'm sure I've shortened their life but they are still going 

    they do have a very low C discharge rating, I had to make a 2s3p pack so it had the power to run my 5ive servos without significant voltage drop

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    I've got these, 1500mA hump pack and a cube charger that can charge hump pack, transmitter and glow plug starter at the same time! Charger has been used once and the hump pack is still sealed.

  13. First thing first... Fix the caravan heating then work on the cars! I've got the kids with me so heating and the Xbox is a must

    The Losi 5ive just need the shocks rebuilding

    The Terrier has been retired and is being replaced with a new VirusST, but it's still just a chassis and need the motor mount fitting, battery tray making and a brace fabricating

    The Hyper just need fuel and tune as it's got a Lion battery it will still be charged :)

  14. I own a Hyper7, 3 Ansmann Virus ST's and a Virus. The Hyper is made from better aluminium, the Virus chassis and shock towers bend too easy but once braced they are very tough and so cheap that when I finally killed mine I brought a whole new kit as is cheaper than buying the parts needed!

    Some of the Virus parts fit the Hyper7, my hyper has Ansmann diff cases

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