mrfodds

New items added and price drops

As titled, I have a hardly used petrol genny for sale. It runs perfectly and is pretty quiet when running. It will be supplied with an almost full tank of fuel and 3/4 of a bottle of 2 stroke oil. Selling as I need to upgrade to an inverter genny.

Price drop to

Sorry mate, 1/8th buggy only I'm afraid

Hi all, Updating an old thread. There's 2 full sets (4 tyres) of each type available. All BNIP. Proline Crimefighter M3 with moulded inserts

Never used, bought in error. Ebay item number 191134192884 Less than 2 hours remaining

Now on ebay. Item number 191134110847 about 2 hours left on auction

An engine can lean bog as it's being starved of fuel. You shouldn't really go on temps as they can be very misleading and some temp sensors aren't very accurate. Always go on sound and feel.

Price drop

Sorry for the late reply, I have a charging loom that has a deans connector on it as well as usual nimh and tamiya connectors. Part of the leads mentioned in the ad, no extra cost if you want them.

Generally after the while the front bearing will start to leak leading to inconsistent idle and generally be a swine to tune. It could be argued that you are changing the rod and pin clips a bit early but I guess it's down to personal preference. A lot of people I know would change the rod around the 2 gallon mark. It's accepted that the engine should be fully ran in by this point. At 1 gallon, if ran in properly, you would still have a lot of pinch. For bearings, I'd change both front and rear at the 4 gallon mark. No point in changing one without doing the other.

As titled I have my card for sale. About a year old in perfect working condition. Install disk and instructions provided as well as low profile bracket bundle.

As titled, charger for sale. Can run on 240v or from a 12v car battery. Both types of power leads included. Charges all the usual types including lipo at a maximum of 4a. Balance board included as well. Please note that the charger didn't come with any charging leads. I can provide a set (not the best) on request at no extra charge.

Just a quick update, all drive shafts now have new pins installed and the price has been dropped to

Here's my XB9 '12 car for sale. It comes with a few spares (new and used) and a couple of shells. Car shows some wear and the drive pins need replacing. Not had the tool to do it myself but I've included a pack of pins if you have one / can get hold of one. It's pretty much standard apart from the brake pads. I put a set of mugen mbx6 ones on which work much better. Spares / parts included are: Rear hubs x 2 BNIP Front arm x 1 BNIP and 1 used front arm Hudy drive pins BNIP 2 used rear arms White rear wing, used All the inserts for toe, kick up, caster adjustment Flywheel, clutch nut and air filter BNIP answer rc fuel line Spare chassis with sideguards - used Think that covers it all. Looking for

First couple of shims against the front bearing on the engine aren't always necessary. If you find that the clutch bell is hanging off the crank or won't spin freely once you tighten the end screw up then remove those shims first. Make sure the clutchnut is tight. If its even slightly loose you'll destroy clutch bearings pretty quickly and strip the clutch bell too. It doesnt show on that diagram but if possible, place a shim on each post of the flywheel before installed the shoes. Should help to stop any binding. I usually try to put at least 1 shim behind the clutch bell and 1 in front as a starting point. I find that this allows the clutch bell to spin freely without binding against anything. Add shims if theres too much play in the bell up and down the crank. As an end result with everything installed and mounted, you're looking for the spur gear to sit in the middle of the clutch bell with around 1mm of play. Some installations are a complete nightmare. If you need loads of room on the crank to install everything then look at a shorter collet (Losi do one and can be a godsend!) or play around with different clutch nuts. Vice versa if there's too much play and you don't want to use loads of shims.

Price drop on tools

New items added, final price drop on hauler

Tools sold, price drop on hauler

Pipe sold

All prices quoted include postage unless otherwise stated. Items can be collected from my home, NDOR or the next round of TMSC at NRC. Paypal buyer pays fees (usually around 4%). Team Magic F8 Hauler -

That certainly does seem expensive for a pull start engine. There are plenty of .21 engines out there suitable for a truggy but it depends on what you want. Novarossi have undoubted quality and performance, if you like a .25 then how about a Roma? Saw a lightly used one on another forum at half the price of that KE. Finally, if there are bits of metal coming out of the KE then it's time to ditch it. No doubt all the insides are scored and will cause constant performance issues be it engine cuts, blown plugs, inconsistent idle etc. Good luck with the hunt

Don't get hung up on idle gap. On a new engine with rich settings you'll be running a higher than normal idle anyway to prevent the engine stalling on the first few tanks. As you lean the engine off later then you can start to drop the idle to a "normal" speed. I've mentioned it on the other forum you posted this question in but please check the carb settings on this engine. The instructions on my Lutz told me to richen the HSN by 2 turns. Not sure if newer Lutz's now come with rich engine settings out of the box but just make sure otherwise you could do some damage early on.

You can run a composite cover for your air filter to reduce the possibility of water getting in your engine. It's a cheap preventative measure but tbh I've run mine in the wet without one and never had an issue. The only advice I would give is watch the bearings. They don't like getting wet so give them a good spray of GT85 after each run.

I found it a bit of a gimmick really. The temperature gauge wasn't accurate at all (around 40F out) and the rev sensor was completely useless. On an 1/8th buggy mounting the sensor was difficult and even then it didn't always pick up the dot on the flywheel. On a final note, if you remove the engine often then installing the sensors really isn't worth the hassle as they just get in the way. Might be better on large scale but don't take the readings seriously.