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Posts posted by kingscott
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Honest answer......
Either a new engine or a new piston/liner set for you engine (whatever is most cost effective)
A worn engine is a worn engine and that is a fact, don't let anyone tell you otherwise.
Harsh but true.
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Byron 20% mate
Sorted. Good fuel, racers use it, clubs use it, go for it.
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Parts are so cheap and easy to get! Ace car, you can't go wrong!!
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ive been using model technics 20% no probs in my DT-10
Try another brand of fuel then you will see
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Hyper no contest.
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Not much is the simple answer! infact I'm sure you wont notice.
Humm 34mm is not a small one then, I would go with the 35mm flywheel.
http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/ANSCS4001.html
Again please contact them before ordering just to be sure
Check this website is superb:
http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/clutch/clutches-index.html#flywheel size
Cheers
Adam
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To be honest you best just ring Apex, modelsport or Answer-rc tomorrow!
I always use answer kit, its great quality and lasts. Answer RC are very helpful and will know exactly what you want. They are about 7 quid + post.
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what size is the item at the moment?
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Nutter!!!
Might get away with a 16t/17t at the most, remember to re tune the engine after changing the clutch bell.
A 25t will be a joke, can you even buy a 25t?? LoL
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whoops, I see the tie wraps and fuel hose did its job
Bad luck fella, what engine is it?
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what make of fuel are you runnin? sounds alot like model technics haha
My god that stuff is so bad, how they get away with selling it is beyond me. The 16% is a joke, its more like 2% nitro and 98% chip fat oil.
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General tune mate, your running less Nitro content, may have to change the plug to a hot.
Why the 16% fuel? I would stick with 20-25%
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Coils normally just snap "burn out". Both running rich and lean can cause this.
My pinch is about 5 seconds, some people say 2 seconds and less than that and your too lean. Regarding the LSN Remember make a small change, drive it (where possible) for a min, stop for 20 seconds then boot it and see what happens? also don't forget the HSN its more likely that the car is running lean at top end to blow plugs.
How does the car perform normally when its running?
Out of interest, how do you stop the engine?
.
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Flywheels are norm between 32 and 35mm ish
Your starter box looks same as my SMD. you need a part number JBR80111, (which is
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Ha ha I had the same problem, I lowered it that much I hit the drive belt with the top deck!!!!
I have no idea of the diameter for you box but obviously there must be a wear issue if you cant reach it very well.
Any Idea what make your starter box is? If not post a pic and I'm sure I/someone can tell you
As for the flywheel most Nitro engines are much the same besides some are 2 pin and some are 3 pin for the clutch shoes , I can recommend www.answer-rc.com or Apex models, fire them an e mail. Yours will probs be a 3 pin!
Answer RC defo stock them, and they look sexy! about 7 quid, you may wish to fire a set of new shoes in there a whilst you have the clutch apart. (age depending) they are about 8 quid for a set.
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http://www.apexmodels.com/gbu0-prodshow/PIC9631.html
This engine is way above its price range! very fast and competitive at racing level. Very popular. Close mate runs one in his Hyper 9 and its mad fast!!
And its a Picco
If you search you may get the package for
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Hi
I have a RB B9 and had a similar problem on a SMD starter box, I fitted a new starter wheel (
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..Sounds good but hpi can be an arse for parts....
Hpi parts are easy to get!........................................from the USA LoL
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Mate stick some 20% byron fuel in the car new starter and try again.
Get the carb back to factory settings and start again from scratch.
If you go on youtube there are loads of vids showing about RC nitro tuning, also so much info on this forum.
Sounds to me like you are running a little rich on the low speed needle, try turning it clockwize about 1/8th of a turn and test again.
A Rich LSN will bog down and stop on booting it from standstill, lean LSN will make a hesitant "nah nah nah" noise and then either take off or in extreme cases stop. (again youtube has examples of both)
Don't give up too quick , Nitro running is tricky at times. just you really have to do your research and be patient but you will get the hang of it soon enough. Even to experienced people sometimes nitro engines can leave you scratching your head saying "EH"
If you feel you don't want to mess about too much and just want to drive then I would suggest you perhaps go down the electric route.
Lots of brushless Ready to run kits are available from such as Apex models.
Best of luck mate
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is that the .28 engine or the .21?
If it is the .28 mach, unfortunately they do tend to eat plugs from experience!
Things to check are the running temperatures, keep it below about 115 Degs C
Try a cooler plug for a start! I gave up on OS plugs a while back, however they do have good reports from users. I now use Nova's
Make sure you have no silly air leaks.
Make sure you have checked your tune with the colder weather, generally you will need to richen the engine up in the colder temperatures (as the more dense air contains more oxygen so you need more fuel).
Good luck.
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Update.
The oven method has worked perfectly!!!! preheat 170 Degs C for about 8 mins (check after 5)
Literally fell off! and also saved the tyre foam.
VERY SMELLY THO!!!!
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wow 30 mins!!! be cheaper to buy new rim's with today's electricity prices!! LoL
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Yer Thats an option!
I'm just trying the Oven method as we speak.
i've already burned my thumb
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Hand on head shaking in disbelief at the first post!!!
old school tricks
in General - Nitro
Posted
Sorry I just Don't agree mate on that one.
Its a bodge job and you tun the risk of destroying an engine rather than just getting a new piston/liner kit. I don't know anyone who would even think about doing such a daft task and expect good results from it.