Trackstar

I got one for my birthday last week. I love it, the cat really doesn't...

Hi guys, I've just been given a motorsaver air filter for my (otherwise standard) Revo 2.5, and it seems to be fouling on the gearbox and support bracket for the old air filter. Can anyone tell me if this is normal? I'm a little worried about it damaging the filter or even having it fall off...

My mate got me a new shell for christmas, so its all painted up ready for our first race

I saw the editor from Radio Race CAr magazine (Dez Chand?) test about 3 different types of rubber drift tyres at one of the drift events last year. To be honest, they weren't great. It was a quick test so can't speak for the lifespan, but they didn't seem to drift as easily.

2-5 runs? What surface is that? I've never seen any tyres go that fast!

Yes, it helps them to bed in faster. They'll wear down to a slight angle depending how you've got the camber set, then you can change the camber to vary the grip. The best way to fit Yokomo tyres, IMO, is to half fit the tyre from the back side, so the outer bead is just about right. Then, push the belt on, and finally kick the living **** out of the ******* ******** to get the back bead on, then use a small flat screwdriver and run it round the inner edge of the belt to make sure the rubber lip isn't trapped. It will sit lower, and mind your fingers (by the time you've done 4 they'll hurt enough anyway)! Nice looking car!

I'd say slow drifting is easier, linking the turns and still making the apexes at speed is pretty tricky. But, both are good fun...

Cool. I'll do a test on a spare bit when the paint arrives. May even see if it'll take a coat of laquer...

I've used the Tamiya "blue anodized" style paint on a previous boyshell, and it came out brilliantly. I'm thinking of using it again, but has anyone used it for painting solid objects, on the outside? I've got an old Tamiya 911 GT2 shell, and I want to paint the rear wing and mirrors (black plastic) to match the shell, I wonder if will come out the same colour as on the inside of the polycarbonate... Anybody tried it?

The UK D1RC series is based on the DRC Forum, you should be able to get a link to it from the d1rc.co.uk page... Winter is proving to be quiet, as there aren't many people up for actually competing indoors, it isn't really feasible for us to be hiring venues and equipment for indoor carpet events. We have had one indoor meet at the Racing Drome in Milton Keynes, which went down a storm, sadly the track is not there any more. Otherwise, the 2007 Series is shaping up nicely, with 2 rounds booked for both Snetterton and Colchester outdoor circuits, with at least another 2 to come. We're also hoping to be doing some demo/ exhibition rounds at various shows to try and get a bit of publicity.

I tried a spool diff on my Revo (in the rear diff), yeah it drifts ok if you're doing it on purpose, but otherwise makes it very hard to control. Even accelerating in a straight line on rough ground is difficult as the bumps make the back kick out, and with high ride height and soft suspension that normally ends up in a big tank slapper and having to back off the throttle... I'll keep it for the snow though

Hehe, I bought a spool diff for my Revo, set the ride height fairly low and squeezed some chunks of abs over the standard tyres. Was good fun, just a bit of a pain changing diffs all the time.

Don't worry too much about the motor, as soon as its started to slide the power doesn't really matter. For tyres, you can buy them or make your own from ABS pipes from a DIY shop... Good tip would be to lock or at least tighten your rear diff too.

I made up a pivot arm and some linkages to attach it to the steering servo.

I ran my aerial (in the standard tube) under my bodyshell all year with no range problems. Just make sure it doesn't drag on the floor

I disagree. Obviously it will vary depending on the surface quality, but I've had one set of rings/tyres this year, and they've lasted through 4 competitions, a press day and practices at various touring car tracks, dodgy tarmac in Silverstone's paddock, the concrete car park at work and even carpet, and there's still a bit of life in them yet! The trick is not to have too much camber on the rears, or one edge wears excessively.

Is there such a thing? For the sake of keeping the cost down, the UK series was restricted to any 19-27 turn brushed motor. Brushless is quite popular in the states though...

If you've got too much understeer try softening the front suspension, and if you can, play about with the camber so the rubber shoulders of the Yok tyres bite a bit more for a better turn-in (this is the point of Yokomo tyres, the rubber shoulders allow you to vary the grip levels through your suspension geometry). Tighten your rear diff, or if you can, lock it. The motor really won't make a huge difference cos as soon as you've broken traction it won't need much power to keep it going.

A few of us from the D1RC series have booked the indoor carpet circuit at the Racing Drome in Milton Keynes for a bit of light hearted drifting on November 11th... Nothing too serious, first timers welcome... Anyone interested?

Hmm, personally I still think its looks cack. Its the 1:10 equivalent of LED washer jets from Halfrauds. There are a lot of VERY good replicas out there now, I spent far too much time doing one myself, because you can get them to look very realistic now. I think the 3D light buckets make a huge difference to the realism.

I don't really see the point, real tyres don't do it... Unless they've delaminated of course, and at that point they're about to go bang anyway... That guy does do some really nice drift stuff though, some of his bodyshells are amazing. With the ABS tyres, all people do is find ABS pipe that has the same internal diameter as the outer diameter of the wheels, cut it to the right width, tidy the edges up with sandpaper or a dremel, and pop them on with something like a foam insert to get a tight fit. You buy the ABS pipe from DIY stores, so you can make them in all sorts of sizes!

Not quite sure how I picked up this dent, but this is how my bog standard Revo came back from our first trip to a proper track, Sandy Nitro Model Club, on sunday... Good, no-so-clean fun!

Might be a bit of a stupid question, but do I have to stick to 27 meg crystals for the standard Revo radio gear?

190, but you can get away with a 200mm shell if you get some wheels with a decent offset.

Its much harder! You don't have enough weight in the rc chassis to give you a progressive change in the grip like you can get in a full size RWD car, plus you'd need more weight up front to keep the sideways momentum up, as it tends to be unbalanced mid-drift... It could be done, but it'll take some setting up!