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Hi I have a Kyosho Multi Starter Box Pro 2.0 (KYO36209) and I've just purchased a Lipo Battery which is a Turnigy 5000mAh 4S1P 14.8v 20C. My concern is when I connect the wires which also look visually thinner than the Lipo wires seem to get warm maybe hot as I did not test long enough to find out, also another thing I noticed were small sparks coming from motor and one of the connections. My worry is is this normal or should I use precautions? Thanks and I have added a picture with arrows, red arrows indicate which wire's go warm and yellow arrow's indicate where spark's are coming from. http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/18097-20121006-224111/

Another vid on how to install bearing for steering wheel [media=]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s34Jfy62aTw

Hi I'm trying to add a Led to my GT3B I've fitted it correctly but have done the wiring wrong i'm sure. It lights up but it's on all the time, meaning even when the transmitter switch is off it's on unless I take the battery out. I've read on link http://www.rctech.net/forum/9399936-post2016.html the guide but I'm not looking to change the regulator and it says something about using a resistor. Can someone give me a step-by-step guide on how to install the led wiring only, would be ever so grateful, with pics if possible. I'm just getting slightly confused as I've never done it before and want to get it right without damaging my transmitter. Thanks in advance

Right thought I give you guys an update been a bit busy cause of work so didn't get around to fitting the flywheel sooner. Anyway finally fitted the larger flywheel and "Wow" what a difference, it's a bit late in the night so can't test the flywheel working but as it stands visually it so much lower, but not low enough that it sticks out or right next to chassis hole, sits a good 5mm away. It looks very likely with the bigger flywheel it may work without any modding to the starter box the only problem I have noticed which was something mentioned Spriggan is the chassis hole is not bigger enough and one side of the edge is touching the starter wheel. So it looks like I may need to make the hole under the chassis bigger from one side, which to be honest isn't too bad as it's an easier mod to do rather than modding the starter box.

Well today my clutch needed taking apart and thought I'd try the new Super-Twist version and see how I feel. Sad to say but I hated it, my clutch shoes were pretty stiff to take off which is predictable considering they've been there for a while and have taken some kicking. Basically my findings/experience with this tool is that it's twice as hard to take the shoes off, like I imagined you just can't get a good enough grip to pull them off, it maybe easier when you've just installed a fresh pair but with shoes that have been sitting there for a while and have been spinning when the engine runs they become stuck really firm in place with all the grease and gunk build up amongst them. So I used my old plastic slightly broken flip version and it was much much easier. In my opinion stick with the flip version, if anything get hold of a metal version as the plastic do break. I managed to find a metal version on ebay. Super-Twist will be going back from where I bought

Right looks like I may of fixed it Big thanks to Antmax from RC Tech forum gave me some brill guidance and with the picture I found it all made sense, I'm pretty sure I sorted out my problem. I've only tested in my garden at the mo where I was losing signal too and with the test today all went well by the looks of it. Just need to test it at the park now and hope the range is still there

Ah cool that's really good to know, one of the reason's why I imagined the original would be better

Its not the receiver aerial that broke it's the transmitter aerial

Hi Toke my truck out today for a run and found it was losing signal and cutting off. I previously opened my transmitter for doing some mods but accidentally broke the wire from the transmitter circuit board, I did solder it back on and all seemed fine but when I toke it out today when it goes about 50 yards away it stops moving, engine still running, and as soon as I walk closer it starts moving but all this is still very temperamental. Diagnosed the problem and put it down to the the aerial. I'm presuming I need to re-solder it but should I be soldering it a certain way or should I buy another wire or could I use something new in it's place to make it better? Thanks

Hi Am looking to buy a RC Clutch Tool, quite fancied the aluminium version as plastic one's are a bit weak, they do one by Answer-RC picture below traditional style, but the problem is no one does this one anymore they have now upgraded it to the newer version which has a handle like a screwdriver "Answer-RC Super Twist 3 (ANSCSTL04)", again picture provided below. I'm not too keen on the newer version as I feel that I can get a better grip with the older style as the handle goes across horizontally making it easy to pull, so I think, I don't think a screwdriver handle version makes it any easier if anything I think it may be harder. Anyway would like to hear if anyone has one and what they think? Is my theory correct or am I wrong and should try it out? As always thanks in advance http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/gallery/image/16419-answer-rc/

Found a bigger flywheel on ebay Duratrax 3-shoe 41mm May just work keep you updated

Just missed a great point you made regarding a bigger flywheel, I was thinking if they did a bigger version, do you know who and where they do the biggest?

Yep spot on it has engine mounts and a mount spacer. The problem is that I can't lower the flywheel because of the Diff Centre and the spur gear, you can't get bigger then 43T, well you can but I need a steel spur gear as I upgraded my engine to 28 and cause of the torque and rpm's it shred's plastic one's. I don't think a bigger wheel will fix the problem because in my opinion it won't fit through chassis hole. I think from where I'm sitting the chassis hole may need to be cut to make it a bit wider.

Forgot to mention... It's a "Kyosho Multi Starter Box Pro 2.0 (KYO36209)" My truck is a HSP Savagery Pro also known as Redcat Racing Landslide 21. But I've modded it so much it's not even stock anymore

Hi Everyone Right I bought my first Starter Box and to my surprise it does not fit my truck. Very annoying and it's suppose to be universal/multi whatever they call it, "what a load of crap" Anyway been on the net trying to see if other people have had the same problem as me and I did find quite a few. What I also found out is that a lot of guys have adapted there boxes by cutting them and lifting the wheel to make it fit or shall I say work. My question is has anyone done this... How did you go abouts doing it? What tools did you use? Any tips or techniques I should use? Also did you have to cut the chassis too? I have a fair idea what to do but want to make sure I do it right before I start. Thanks in advance

Hi Josh Basically any brand steering wheel that states KO Transmitters will fit the GT3B and from browsing the Integy range I'm 99% sure all there range is compatible, this goes like I said for any brand as well, just make sure they state KO compatible. Hope that helps mate

Hi Walters OK the model code is... INTC23288RED Integy Evolution II Steering Wheel Set. I tried to buy it from the UK but couldn't find it at the time, maybe you can try for yourself and see if you can find one locally otherwise I bought mine from RC Planet, USA website toke about a week to come and cost including delivery to UK

Check out another vid below by me showing how to change steering wheel for GT3B http://www.msuk-foru...steering-wheel/

Apologise just fixed it didn't realise at the time. Try it now should work

How to video guide to change transmitter steering wheel http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=N-RcPtsIqqA&src_vid=43YlNoYG_0k&feature=iv&annotation_id=annotation_890693

This video is a great tip on how to secure a firmer fit for the battery door when converting to Lipo. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=43YlNoYG_0k

No worries... to help you on your way the part number for the chassis is #70008 Good Luck Give me a shout if you get stuck

Hi jimbone I'm presuming you have the .18 engine, basically the .18 has a smaller chasis and if you have the .21 engine the chasis would be bigger so the .28 will just slot in as the .21 and .28 are the same cubic size (cc). Originally I did have the an infinity .18 engine and when I bought my SH .28 I did drill holes to make it fit, but because I was adding so many upgrades I couldn't move the engine left to right because of the changes I was doing. I then just decided to buy the bigger chasis which is for .21 size engines just to gave me more room to play around with. It's easy to swap and the chasis can be bought by most internet sellers

No probs glad I could help

I went through my ebay account and this is the guy I bought it from, same country from Australia, link below http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/RC-Li-Po-Battery-2200mAh-11-1v-Futaba-Radio-Control-Transmitter-H222-/230719955198?pt=Radio_Control_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35b7fb20fe#ht_2624wt_1218 Although he does state something about customs I did not get charged custom charges it arrived in about just over a week, something like that I can't remember exactly but don't hold me to it this was my experience. You maybe ok just keep it in the back of your mind, so your not disappointed.