GorillaZilla
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Posts posted by GorillaZilla
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Have any HPI firestorms knocking round in there? Cheers!
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Hello, Do you still have this?
Edit: Oh crikey, just noticed this was 4 years ago!
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I see he got to you too...
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Good stuff, money to Taiwan, enemy of communist bandit china and last sanctuary of real chinese culture which the communists sought to erase. Better than money going to winnie the poo and the tyrants too, the people who intentionally unleashed the coof coof upon the world (closed all internal flights to protect themselves, left all international flights wide open).
No hating though, that's what our real enemy wants. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Wt-mPJEkDq4&feature=youtu.be&t=489
Also an excellent choice as the Hyper ST can easily be made the toughest out there by a Mile, on a shoestring budget too as there's a long and storied history and legacy of this machine, stemming from the crazy Hyper 7 Bashing legends.
I have a couple spare motor mounts if you want one. And I have some links in my signature on brushless conversion strategies.
Has some of the best chassis bracing of ANY Truggy, And can even be made a load better with a couple cheap mods, so you can REALLY send it without restraint.
You can use any spare ST rear upper arm turnbuckles to make sweet extra chassis braces (with the longer plastic bit on both ends for the rear), from the little aluminum tube/space thing that the bolt that holds the rear chassis brace to the gearbox goes through.. To the Unused nitro Brake gubbins hole in the middle of the center diff plate...
For connecting the turnbuckle to the center diff plate I use an M3 cap head Bolt through a Ball end like the ones that the turnbuckle is connected to the shocktower with.
Then an M4 Nut underneath the ball end to fill in the ole of the center plate. then a thick wide washer, then an M3 Nylock nut from underneath to clamp it all together onto the plate....
I also do something similar for the front so the center diff mount can't be pushed over and forwards from an extreme rear impact.
They work great, and have a little give in them to absorb energy rather than just transferring it on to the next part to break....
Might want to fill in the hollow bit of the longer plastic part of the turnbuckle with shoegoo or E6000 though to beef it up ( clean part with 99% alcohol so the goo sticks stronk, sellotape over one side of the hollow, then pour in shoegoo to fill it up)
The suspension Hingepins are also easily converted to 12.9 High tensile steel nut and bolt, for even more Strength.
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Shame they broke, Looks like the kind that are easy to put rubber booties on to seal the sut and grit out so you can fill em with Corrosion-X grease so they never wear out... Until they actually break that is.....
If your Hyper ST is brushless you can use any spare rear upper arm turnbuckles to make sweet extra chassis braces (with the longer plastic bit on both ends for the rear), from the little aluminum tube/space thing that the bolt that holds the rear chassis brace to the gearbox goes through.. To the Unused nitro Brake gubbins hole in the middle of the center diff plate...
For connecting the turnbuckle to the center diff plate I use an M3 cap head Bolt through a Ball end like the ones that the turnbuckle is connected to the shocktower with.
Then an M4 Nut underneath the ball end to fill in the ole of the center plate. then a thick wide washer, then an M3 Nylock nut from underneath to clamp it all together onto the plate....
I also do something similar for the front so the center diff mount can't be pushed over and forwards from an extreme rear impact.
They work great, and have a little give in them to absorb energy rather than just transferring it on to the next part to break....
Might want to fill in the hollow bit of the longer plastic part of the turnbuckle with shoegoo or E6000 though to beef it up ( clean part with 99% alcohol so the goo sticks stronk, sellotape over one side of the hollow, then pour in shoegoo to fill it up)
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On 06/08/2020 at 11:40, foxy said:
Thanks mate I’m hoping to get it started today and start the run in process 😊
Alright aye, been a while now... Take it the ST is treating you alright?
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I could use the Wingmount pieces Because I'm going to double up the wing mount "plates" by using a hacksaw to cut off the "screw to bulkhead" section of the extra set of "plates" and the bit that extends to the rear chassis brace, as well as shave off a bit at the back so they fit against the non recessed part of the shock tower...
Then shoegoo them together (while also filling the holes in the plates with shoegoo, by putting tape over one side of the spaces and pouring the shoegoo in till it fills the space.
And then replacing the stock spacers in between the two sets of "plates"with shorter stouter non thinned 20mm long M4 Nylon spacers to compensate for the thicker "plates" with a few M4 washers to fine tune the length and an M4 flat nut to fill in the hex shaped hole in the plates.
Then use 50mm and 60mm long fully threadded M4 Bolts and Nylock nuts + washers through the whole thing to hold it tight and stronk as Buull !.
If you are using an RTR Hyper ST you can use a 3.5mm Drill bit to drill down into the wing mount screw holes, extending them through the Gearbox Shocktower mounting lugs, and then though the shock tower support structure itself, and use a longer screw, making it a LOT harder to pull out, to go with your strengthened wing mount structure.
Then to help protect against upside down landings while moving forwards where the wing mount can get pulled backwards maybe some marine grade steel cable ties going around lowermost spacer between the plates and then around the shock tower horns, with just a little slack so the wing mount can flex a fair way, but then pull on the shock towers and flex those and hopefully stop the wing mount reaching its breaking point.
I also use those steel cable ties around the motor to the center chassis brace, with a flat rubber lump between the chassis and the motor, helps keep the motor in place in lawn dartings and heavy back end landings.
For great robustness!
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Alright aye 👍 What does the standard spare joblot include?
I love having extra Gubbins to experiment with, Right now I'm tinkering with chassis bracing, You can do some amazing stuff with the rear turnbuckles with the longer bend end piece on both ends.
Right now I'm putting 4 extra braces on, 2 either side of the rear brace to bulkhead connection, to the two rearmost of the 4 screws of the center diff mount, then something very similar for the front.
I like using the longer bent plastic turnbuckle ends, with the hollows filled with shoegoo because they flex and squish a bit on impact, and act like extremely stiff short travel shock absorbers that allow a little, High resistance chassis flex to dissipate the energy without letting the chassis flex so far that it stays bent or kinks a driveshaft..
Beats pure Alu chassis bracing that just transfers the energy to another part that then breaks...
Pretty lightweight too, that along with using slightly smaller lighter 4000mah batteries with higher C-rating to compensate helps as well.
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On 01/09/2020 at 09:17, SWIV said:
Absolutely 😂😂😂
Any luck getting this going? Or ran into more problems you need a hand with?
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How big are your batteries? If they are just little 2cell 2000 odd mah batteries. LiPo bags are alright. but any bigger and I'd skip LiPo bags entirely as they are not reliable. Check out the video in my sig. You are better off getting Steel Ammo Cans and taking the rubber seal out to allow the pressure to vent.
Pretty cheap too considering what you get https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/AMMO-BOX-Army-50-Cal-Pre-Used-Ammo-Can-Military-Surplus-Storage-Box-Tool-Box/123903845471?hash=item1cd93ea45f:g:HJIAAOSwpwRb7dXn
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11 hours ago, jimbulsara said:
Just an update. I have tried the batteries on the car and they worked fine. Only had a minute or two of play time but it drove fine. I didn’t charge it to full capacity (90%). Hopefully soon I will take it out for a bit longer.
Oh sorry about that, I got caught up with other things... 3.275v per cell is about 40% on the battery. Based on this chart of a 4 cell Li-FE https://diysolarforum.com/threads/lifepo4-voltage-chart.3156/
Though that has to be measured at no load, so you would have to use a multimeter on the terminals.
It's kind of hard to measure the remaining capacity from just voltage. So just be gentle with them for the first several cycles and you should be golden.
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On 10/09/2020 at 06:49, Tug said:
I thought the video had been reversed after the impact for comedic effect, but no the car actually did that.... Nutty.
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One thing I like about Hypers is the experimentation with swapping parts around between them, Like My nephews Hotrod style Hyper 7 has buggy wheels in the front and monster truck wheels at the back, but can still have 4WD without spinning the internals of the center diff like mad, because the rear end is running the lower gear ratio Hyper ST pinion and crown gear on the rear diff. So both sets of wheels have the same ground speed vrs center shaft rotation.
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On 16/08/2020 at 17:34, Jumper said:
yeah, i go through loads of wing mounts on the hyper ST gets pretty annoying.
I wonder if the Kronos wing mount would fit on the Hyper ST with a little work... What's the spacing between the two mounting holes on the Corally wing mount?
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31 minutes ago, mickturnip said:
Makes me Wana switch lol .been reading alot about the rear diff problems ..wonder if that issue will be sorted before I get mine
Easy enough to check, just open er up when she arrives and check that the shim washers are there where they should be, If not I can see what shims I got laying around and If I have em spare post you some in a letter, I have loadsa handy junk laying about from experiments.
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This bad Boi is in stock https://www.modelsport.co.uk/corally-kronos-xp-6s-monster-truck-1-8-lwb-brushless-rtr/rc-car-products/444328
I know.... I'm a Git
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On 21/02/2020 at 17:31, namastebuzz said:
This hit 91mph with an Arrma BLX 6S system and a load of weight up front and using a gyro.
I'd like the Gyro please if you still have it, I want to try it out in my Hyper ST for Dusty drifting ☁️
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On 08/06/2019 at 22:01, Jeremy Atkin said:
1/4 SR4 RC bike with active gyro. radio gear, box etc.. all there but no battery. £150 ono
Sent a PM about the Gyro in that bike.
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10 hours ago, ManicZ said:
Hi all, New here and fairly new to rc, i have had a wltoys a959-b that I gave a fully metal upgrade for about 2 years but have recently ordered the wltoys 144001, also purchased an flysky FS-GT5 transmitter and FS-BS6 receiver, I was wondering if it would work
with the 144001 and would I need to also replace the ESC? or will the transmitter bind with the stock ESC/receiver combo? thanks and happy to be here
Also pretty sure the radio will not bind with the All in one ESCs, They use a wierd non standard system https://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showpost.php?p=43101111&postcount=65
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And as for full metal upgrade, metal A-Arms are best avoided, plastic is a lot better there. you want the flex in the plastic to absorb impacts. Metal just bends if there is no tough flexible plastic to bend take the hits and snap back.
You will get a tougher car if you Limit metal parts to the likes of Steering Knuckles, Chubs. and Arm hingepin holders, and only if the stock parts are poorly built and weak.
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the wltoys a959-b and wltoys 144001 look like they use all in one combined receiver and Electronic speed controllers (E.S.C) so the standalone receiver won't work with them, so you'd have to replace the ESC, and plan out where everything is going with the new electronics.
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9 hours ago, jimbulsara said:
Hi mate,
the zippy life battery arrived yesterday. I didn’t realised they were shipped at 30% charge... I am still waiting for my lead adapters so I can charge the batteries using my charger .... hopefully they arrive Tuesday the latest.
What is the storage charge for the life battery and what rate of charge do you use?
Storage voltage for Li-Fe is 3.3v , Those batteries from hobbyking are rated at 2C max charge rate. So 8.4 Amps for those 4200mah cells. Though I just charge mine at 1C 4.2 Amps.
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Would have been like one of those Ikea furniture moments, when you have bits left over and you worry where they should have gone 🔩🔗🔩
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That's looking pretty solid, Though is there a screw holding that arm onto the servo as I can't see one?
Gotta Drain them wheels....
in General RC
Posted
Could you burn vent holes on the outside of the tyre with a small soldering iron head and spin em up on a high speed drill to sling the water out?