nitroazza

firstly, remove the airfilter and check the slide choke, as you pull the throttle it will open, leaving it alone, it should be almost closed, not completely, about 1mm - 2mm gap, that is for idle. if its completely closed, adjust the idle screw clockwise to open it up slightly, and then try starting it, if you adjust it too much and open it too much, the model will race off on its own once started, so its always good to make sure its raised off the floor.

to be honest mate, i wouldnt bother, celotape will hold it temperarily. not permanently. and when it comes to respraying it, its pointless, to respray it, you will have to spray on the exterior of the shell, when in fact its the inside that gets sprayed, to stop it scratching off on impacts. so waste of time bud, by the time you bought the PC paints etc, you could of just got yourself a new shell.

if your on a budget, then a pack with something like 4500mah, 2S and a fairly high discharge rate, something liek 35 - 40C will do nicely. if your budget is anything, id recommend an orion racing 3S 5500mah hard pack, 70C discharge. excellent pack, will never buy any other pack.

some people may not agree with me on the pinch test method of tuning the low speed needle, but believe me, its a very accurate way, have never failed to tune any model up.

sweet mate. now when you run your model, warm the engine up, then starting with the high speed needle, turn it 8th clockwise, this will make your mixture more lean. therefor increasing performance, should notice better top speed too. keep turning 8th turn clockwise and thrash it to test. keep doing it until you turn it that last 8th turn and the performance is not increased. then at that point, turn it back 8th turn, its tuned. should be a nice line of blue smoke upon acceleration, if there is hardly any then its too lean, needs to be ritchened up, if there is loads and loads of smoke, its still too rich, lean it out. and with the low speed needle, run the engine, warm it up, thrash it for a few secs to clear out excess fuel in the carb, bring your car to a standstill and squeeze the fuel line, it should run for around 2 - 3 seconds, slightly speed up in revs then die, thats when its fully tuned. if it runs for more than 2 - 3 seconds then its too rich, lean it out a little, again with 8th turns. if it just dies quickly when squeezing the line, no speed up in revs, just a straight die, its too lean, ritchen it up slightly tuning can be quite tricky, different fuels can help. i never run model technics, worst fuel around, i like optfifuel remember, when tuning 8th turn clockwise leans it out and 8th turn anti-clockwise, ritchens it back up again. good luck

right mate, in simple terms, looking at the top of the engine, near the side of it will be a metal tube like thing sticking up, wih a flathead screw in it, thats is your high speed needle, adjusting this will increase performance of your engine. and looking at the throttle servo and linkages, there will be a black round part connected to the engine, (the throttle linkage pulls this in and out) in the center, there will be a screw, thats the low speed needle, it controls the idle fuel to air ratio and low speeds ratio, so basically controls acceleration. these need to be tuned to give the best performance and running temperatures for your engine. not tuning it will not harm your engine in any way, it will simply make you burn out glowplugs quicker than you can replace them. if your still stuck on explaination mate, let me know, i will upload some pics to show you

hi guys. i am selling my esky co-comanche lipo helicopter 4ch co-axial i have only used it once and its less than a month old. i got it as a gift and cant use it as i had an op on my hand not long ago, struggle to hold a transmitter now for a while. never really known how to fly them either. its in good condition, got couple of tiny cracks on the canopy but nothing visible unless up close. and its missing the landing wheels, these are thin and around

thanks bud. and yeah defo put some pics up when its startin to take place. only just got the chassis measured and cut, just needs filing smooth and drilling. will get that done and find my camera out of the box somewhere lol

well if its constantly flooding, try tuning it.

hey guys, im new here, i buy fairly regularly from msuk shop, so thought id join upto this forum. i have been into rc models since a very young age, and at the moment i am currently designing and building my own nitro rc from scratch. home made measured, cut and drilled chassis. equivelent to a 1/6 model. which will be running 4 TRX 3.3 engines, with 2 steel spur gears, 2 gearboxes. 2 engines powering the front wheels, and 2 on the rear. and one big custom made fuel tank.

yeah check the gowplug, thats the most common cause. or in the worst case scenario, the lsn is set too lean. the lsn also adjusts the idle fuel / air ratio. so if its not the glowplug, try slightly ritchening the lsn and the idle screw.