kevden45

cheers for the advice and will give it a go once I buy some bigger shrink tubing cos the turnigy wire have a huge diamter! lol

I just got some turnigy lipos through the post and want to change the bullet connector to deans.. The thing is i know how to do it and Im not bad at soldering but is it easy to short circuit the battery? how long should i hold the soldering iron on the wire before taking it of so that it doesnt overheat the battery If you get what I mean by this. I just don't want to bust my lipos or is that a hard thing to do?

I have tried disconnecting and reconnectin the sensor wire and still nothing. I have also tried bonding the tansmitter to the esc many times and thats fine to. dont have a clue really..

I'm not intending to race it just use it for bashing. The motor does turn fully by hand in both directions with no trouble but just wont when you try it with the battery... just ordered a lipo to try and im going to give modelsprt an e-mail. could i have short circuited it when soldering the motor wires on? Or would this not make it act like it is?

Its a modelsport own brand one this is it http://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?product_id=29046 I have 2 of them and to be honest they only last about 8 minutes fully charged in a brushed mad rat stock 27t motor. I also have a 1800 orion sports power but that doesnt budge it either. Once i twist the motor end it will go right to full and to vb=ery slow but once i apply the brake or go to neutral it won't start up again. I was just going to order a lipo now to see if that would make a difference but I would need to solder new ends on and that might mee=an a voided warrenty.

it's a fusion exceed 10.5T motor esc combo I ordered it off modelsport, my local hobbystore dont really know a great deal and dnt sell lipos looks like ill be going to otley some time soon.

Tried what you said above and diconnected the motor from inside the car and when i tried to run the motor with the pinion on but without any resistence it won't turn at all unless I touch it and then it stops almost like its stuck what causes this? Could this be a faulty motor or is it more likely to be the battery thats not powerful enough with it been a 2000 nihm pack? I can't afford lipos for a while yet and once I get them on need to solder deans connecters on and if the motors faulty that voids the warrenty I'm really stuck on what to do.

They seem to fit into each other alright when i push them up against each other theres a tiny bit of play from the spur gear side. but i mean about o.25mm of play but they are fitting into the spur gears teeth but i just dont understand why it won't move it.

I've just checked the gear mesh and when I turn the back wheels it doesnt drive the belt the pinion seems to slip into place on the spur.... What causes this is it geared to high? EDIT: just tried moving the motor the drive belt won't move at all unless there's no resistance from the motor pinion ie if i take the pinion out. Im not getting this at all it doesnt make sense to me could it be that the pinion is a different DP to whats needed for the spur gear cos the ones I have are 48 DP they fit into the spurs grooves perfectly though. so i am well confused now lol.

Cheers mate I didnt mean to sound un polite or anything like that I just wanted to know the information. I am sorry for not stating that it was a roller in my first post and thanx for the video will it be the same sort of thing for electric? i presume it 's no different.

Is there any test i can do to see if the gears are to tight as I say I bought the car as a rolling chassis of e bay so I dont know if the spur gear is to to tight if it helps as well it is belt driven not shaft.

I understand what you're saying but I had no STOCK set up i bought the car as a rolling chassis and we all need to learn what things are about I went brushless cos I wanted it there for the future I didnt go for anything with loads of power just a 10.5 T. I ask a question cos i'm sort of new and you go post a comment like that why not explain things I know a bit about cars just not enough to know what gear mesh is etc if i was to know what part it was a would be able to figure it out. My car work smoke and burn at allcos I know how to stop that from happeing.

Is that cos its not drawing enough power to make the spur gear and pinion move?

it's A 2000 nihm battery which is probably why, what does gearing to high mean? im totally new to all of this and need as much help as i can get could it be something to do with the motor pinion? And yes I have the senore attached and have set the esc up about 4 times cos I thought i was doing it wrong but thats correct. And i don't know what the gear mesh is mate sorry could you exlain so I could check

I'm just setting up my x ray t2 car, I just got the exceed brushless through the post today and have installed it into the car. The problem is it wont go unless a touch the spur gear then it drives the motor like it should but if i let go of the thottle it won't go again. I am using a 24T pinion what is the problem with it? I am new to this so I don't have a clue and Have been on all day trying to figure it out.

Im going to painting my first bodyshell when it arrives. What type of paint can I use? does it have to be a hobby paint or can I use them all purpose spray paints you buy from BAQ which are sutiable for plastic and such materials... what have you people used before and how much does it effect the finish?

I have a yokom mr4 tc sd and a x ray T2 both are rolling chassis at the moment so whichever one I decide to do first lol. im thinking the x ray

Ive now ordered the 10.5 turn fusion exceed motor esc combo. I'm looking at ordering lipos of hobbyking. But i have a few questions regarding C rating the ones i'm looking at now are these http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewItem.asp?idProduct=14317. Will the C rating be to high for my esc? it works out at 200a. Can all esc handle this or do I need something lower C rating than this, what would happen if I run this with that esc?

HAHA sounds like a whale of a time, are you still using fibregalss chassis? lol

Fusion exceed 10.5T motor and esc combo, Ansmann X base 2.0 lipo chrager, 23,24,25 T pinions, deans connectors, esc programmer, ansmann 2.4 ghz radio and a mazda 6 bodyshell can't wait to get them and fit them! the only decision now is what car to do first lol...

Hey guys just to let everyone know I have placed an order with modelsprt and I am going brushless..... so you al dont have to put up with all my posts. which are bount to get annoying to all:whistling: :D

Yeah I see what you mean... It's cheaper now to go for brushed but I cant skim motors and if I was to buy A new motor every month it works out more expensive than going brushless plug in and forget set up which to mean sounds better longer run times is a good thing over nihms and smoother running motors grrrrr don't know what to do I think I'll order brushless now and then it's donw with!

I have decided to go brushed cos I can't afford brushless at this moment and don't know If ill lose intrest in the rc cars I have.... I'm going to get a 12x2 brushed motor for both my mr4 tc sd (yokomo) and my xray T2 chassis I have bought. What gear pinion size would be a good starting point for bashing? The yokomo has a spur gear size of 70T and the xray has a 84T.... What would anyone suggest to me for these? Is a 17T pinion a good starting point?

I want to really but im thinking with me being sort of new to this that I may get sick of it and not use it so it may sit there doing nothing and the amount of money i'll spend on brushless :

Could i still run a 2000 mah 7.2v nihm pack on a fusion exceed 10.5 T motor and esc combo? how long would it last it wouldnt be for to long just till I have the funds to buy some lipos.