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Everything posted by horatio
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That's a great idea - effectively after run oil (or before run oil 😅) - what better oil to use than your choice of 2 stroke oil. 👌 I think my Baja had such a spell in the garage that it had air in the fuel line and I'm not convinced my primer bulb was pushing anything but air through the carb. I think my next job will be a fresh set of fuel lines, a new bulb and fuel filter/clunk. Might go crazy and fit a new tank too. Then try another speed run. 😝
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As an aside, after a winter in the shed, I found starting my Baja 5B SS was easier with a little helping squirt of petrol directly into the cylinder. I removed the plug, used a syringe with 2.5ml of petrol and just squirted it in. I'm wary of getting too carried away with pressing the Primer bulb much, as this can flood the engine if you're not careful. Generally, the Fuelie 26cc is incredibly easy to start. But if the engine is left to get dry, direct injection into the cylinder saves alot of stress on your pull starter. 👍
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For the avoidance of any doubt - this is how cool a Fuelie 26cc engine is.....
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Youtube video of speed runs and general hooning around should be visible before 5pm. See here:
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14 Year old Baja 5B SS, running Fuelie 26cc engine. Perfect conditions, 60 degrees and dry. Strange light in the sky is also known as the sun!
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Totally agree with the above, but a torquey engine can be geared right up. My CY 26cc engine with super loud, shiny, curly SS pipe was super fast in a straight line. Cars modded with a lot of heavy alloy will no doubt benefit from tuned engines - and the bigger they are, the more potential there is for higher HP. "ain't no replacement for displacement" 🤣
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The engine you've shown looks like a bargain. A chrome version was sold (new other) yesterday on Ebay for £144 before shipping. There are all sorts of top end options for the 4 bolt engines, but it will likely be perfectly fine as is. 👍
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Well even if your engine is toast, the replacement engines are unbelievably good value from £139. IMO much better value than your typical glow engine. Hell - you can get a Zen G320 for less than £289 and they produce great torque. 👍 Hopefully you'll get a few more miles out of the one you're getting. 🤞 Let us know how it goes.
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Here's a link to the CY 26cc engine - this one is a 4 bolt engine though - my Fuelie CY 26cc is a 2 bolt. IRC CY 26cc Engine There's also the CY 29cc engine here: RC Modelz CY 290 Is just me - but my CY 26cc engine seemed to get stronger as it aged. I'm 100% expecting the piston/ring/cylinder to need changing, but it just keeps on going. And that curly wurly silver tuned exhaust with the SS might be loud, but it rips!
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I have to agree - the CY 26cc Engine that I had in my Baja 5B SS is 14 years old, on the original clutch shoes (inside a TR enclosed clutch case) - and it's never missed a beat. It's such an under rated engine. People were always in such a hurry to swap it out for this that or the other - but I never saw the replacements they shelled out on resulting in better running. My CY 26 always starts using the same procedure. 3 presses on the bulb. 1 pull on the cord with the choke closed. Then usually 1 or 2 pulls on the cord with the choke open. On the curly silver tuned pipe, it rips and sounds like a MX bike. It's bonkers. Gotta love 2 stroke petrol engines!! 😍
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****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
Visiting this thread having just gone over a few sets of my 1/8th wheels. There is nothing to lose by balancing your wheels, though it gets increasingly difficult to balance wheels the smaller they are. IMO, it's better to take reasonable steps to ensure your wheels are as balanced as possible, because besides the obvious improvement in performance, having a car that has less vibration will also reduce wear and improve bearing life. To do a good job, you need a wheel balancer, blutac, pen, golfing lead tape and a digital balance (scales). I use blutac on the rim - in the usual way - putting the right amount of blutac opposite the heavy side of the wheel. Mark this with a pen. (often on off road tyres, you'll notice the heavy part of the wheel is where the manufacturer drills the vent hole in the rim) Once the wheel is balanced as accurately as possible, I then remove all of the blutac and weigh it on the digital balance. I replace the blutac with the same weight of adhesive lead tape. After a bit of experience, you get to know how long a strip of lead tape you need for any specific weight. It's just a matter of practice. If I'm dealing with very small amounts, I often leave the blutac on the scale - let's say it's 2g. I'll add my length of lead tape to the scale and until I get the length I need to total 4g in total - then put the 2g of lead tape on to the wheel. The reason why I prefer lead tape on the rims is because blutac and putty attract a lot of dust and crap. Also, because lead is denser, you require less volume of it to achieve the same result over putty. It's neater and less likely to fall off. Some of my wheels require 8g of weight to balance them! On a set of wheels hurtling at 60mph - that's a lot of unwanted vibration if it's left unbalanced. My truggy wheels have been balanced with a putty that sets hard and this has also worked well to be fair. However, I still prefer the the lead tape - it's cheaper and readily available. -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
I kinda get that for the RTR stuff - "let's not keep having warranty claims on the $15 servo we supply - so we'll put in a spring so weak that it doesn't have to overcome anything greater than 1kg/cm". With predictable results! But why supply the same spring for rollers like the XTR and EXB, which isn't supplied with any electronics? 🤔 To be fair, the spring on the XTR was OK for stock tyres on loose stuff.. But take it on grass or tarmac with big sticky on road tyres - there's an obvious problem with vague, wandery steering. I have night/day difference on my XTR now. So much easier to keep it tracking in a straight line, which for me is important if you run next to kerbs or within the confines of a track. Steering that centers is important! Another slightly weird thing was the excessive amount of toe out the truck came with - mine had 3-4° which is waaaaay too much. This combined with the soft servo saver meant that high speed runs were a wing & a prayer job! I've set mine now for 1° toe out, for responsive steering at the entry of corners, whilst still having consistent straight line tracking. -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
Yes. None more so than the pitiful arrangement that Savage had out of the box. It literally had no steering at all. Steering more series of suggestions - it was implied rather than actually applied to the wheels. To get steering, you literally had to take an OFNA monster pirate steering assembly and use that. Yet before getting the servo saver changed - everyone put in super duper high torque servos. They even used 2s Lipos to up the voltage. Result: zero difference. So why is this? It's the same for Arrma Kratons as well, only for them they don't have the luxury of an adjustment collar. It seems like such an obvious oversight. You never have this problem on racing buggies or truggies. Perhaps bashers don't need to steer? 🤣😂 -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
So it's been a while since I posted here, but I've had some decent sessions with it over the past couple of months. It's a ton of fun! One area of the truck that needed a tweak was with the servo saver. It becomes quite apparent with big, grippy tyres that the servo saver spring is too weak to achieve consistent steering. Yes - you can tighten it up, but then there's very little (if any) saving action left in it. Frankly, the spring rate is just not optimal for this weight of truck. What to do? Replace the spring. Over on another forum, a bunch of us discussed this problem and I suggested we look for getting a spring made to spec, with a higher rate. That's exactly what we've done. The stock spring was tightened about as far as it could go for on road use. This offers little little give, because there was no space between the coils. I can compress the stock spring completely with my fingers. The new spring on the other hand looks like this: The spring shown here has a much firmer rate, it's slightly longer, the music wire is thicker and it's an interference fit into the composite servo saver arm. Stock spring on left, bespoke spring on right. The specs for the new one were carefully considered following careful measurements of the stock item. With these dimensions, we could figure out how much bigger and thicker we could make the replacement. During testing, it became immediately apparent that the steering now was not only more positive, but more predictable, faster and centered with more precision. The result is 100% consistent lock. See here: My first batch are now virtually sold out. If people want the same - just let me know. I'll get another load soon. When you consider how much money people spend on fancy steering servos, with mega torque and speed - it seems futile when the servo saver wastes any effectiveness the servo may have. You need this spring! -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
Pre-fan, it hit over 160°F. So it's probably only medium rare. 😅 -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
Motor Temp at the end of the speed runs was 138°F which is pretty good considering how it's been before. What I feel I need to do now is buy a new motor - one which I will never cook - and some more 6S packs. 😁 I'm torn between larger capacity cells, which will give me more fun time, vs lighter packs which will likely let my XTR accelerate quicker and handle better. I want to see 0-60mph times into the 3 sec mark. Any one else here hitting these kind of times already? -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
Some while ago, I made some outrageous speed claims, purely by making a note of some markers and manually timing.....well: Just goofing around, I had 62mph on standard gearing and Corally electronics on the outrageously heavy JetKo tyres. 0-60mph Drum roll please........ I'm very pleased with this performance. It's not fast by RC standards - it's fast by ANY standard! I did a run where the peak G was 0.8, but the 0-60 time was actually slower. I hope this makes up for my taking liberties before! 😜 -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
From here on in, I'll be monitoring the speed with the GSM 020. It fits perfectly between the rear body posts. Dual Lock ensures it won't go anywhere (I can literally pick the car up by it!) . Plus, there's a dusty motors shroud over the top of that as well. -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
So.... tested the cooling fans on the weekend. They sure do make a whizzing sound. Starting at a pleasant 68°F, I proceeded to thrash the truck around and did about a dozen speed runs, most of which were full throttle. Near the end of the pack, I checked the temps:- 162°F. So, still pretty hot. However, given just 2 minutes of rest, with the little fans whizzing away, the temperature dropped to around 90°F. At this point, I started driving around again - but only for about 2 mins before I got the LVC. So all told, not a bad result. 😁👌 -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
Alrighty then.... You'd like to think that hooking up 2 fans with a y-lead would be a pretty simple task - routine for anyone that's into rc. Well, not in this instance. 🙄 Firstly, my Surpass Hobby y-lead didn't work with the Surpass motors. 🤔 After some normal checks, trying different leads direct into a battery etc - no joy. It turns out there were 2 problems: 1 motor simply didn't work - it was DOA. The other problem was that the Y lead factory connected had 1 of the plugs connected the wrong way to the motor that (potentially) worked. What an omnishambles! Note: Arrow on plug indicates positive terminal. The one fan that worked sure did whizz at a fair rate! So, the unbranded fans where fitted with the unbranded y-lead which was much better with normal plugs and clearer positive/negative wires. These fans are chunkier and spool up slower but really, really whiz. Either way - at least they work thus should prevent the >160° nightmares. 🤞 A close look at the heatsink shows why these seem to work better. Heatsinks conduct heat from the heat source and release it over time. With adequate air flow, and fans assisting a rapid flow of air over the vanes, the time it takes to release this heat is significantly reduced. Thus, the motor should be cooler at the end of a run. With a bit of luck, hopefully I haven't already ruined the magnets! Does anyone still zap motors any more? -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
😂 Grief mainly! My missus thinks it's geeky. I wonder one day if my beloved collection will all be rounded up and sold while I'm out. I find it satisfying building them though. And brushless is taking me on a journey that's very different to the stuff I've done before. My FPV drones are insanely fast, but it's all relative. In the air with so much space, hitting 127.5mph up there is less of a deal than keeping a truck on the straight and narrow, line of sight, at 70mph. I can't quite wrap my head around how people hit 200mph, just standing there as their car travels the length of a football pitch every second. How do you even see the car at those kind of distances? Let alone trying to figure out what inputs the car needs, without a clear picture of the car and it's attitude etc. FPV will make it easier to go fast I reckon. And TBS radio modules give insane range. It's only a matter of time.... -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
Cheers! I want to pick a calmer day so I can do the speed runs both ways and average them. I have to get these fans working first, assuming they're not knackered. It wouldn't surprise me if I hit >70mph. The surface is perfect for it. I'm also aware that by modern standards, anything below 100mph is considered 'meh'. To me though, these speeds are completely bonkers compared to the stuff I've driven over the years. 🤯 -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
@Stormbringer The horses were funny! The first pass I did was very cautious - just to make sure they didn't spook. Mid session, they were literally chasing around after it like a couple of hounds! 🤣 I took the (very toasty) XTR over to them afterwards to sniff and explained to them what I was doing. I'm pretty sure they'll be cool with it for next time. Next run will be with a data logger and hopefully - power to the fans - they simply won't run off the receiver I've got. No idea why? Bizarre. Possibly the fans are duds, but I'll leave that for future me to sort out. Thanks! My speed runs are done without a Gyro for stability control. Coming towards the camera especially, the windy conditions were seriously affecting the XTR's ability to track in a straight line. In fact, one of my passes was perilously to wiping out my tripod and camera. 😝 -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
Well, took the XTR out for a blast this evening and crikey! This thing sure does shift at a fair rate of knots. The fans aren't powering up on the heatsink though, which is mildly disappointing. I tried channel 3 in the receiver but they just don't spin up. That being said, the motor Temps at the end of these speed runs were 120°F - so warm but not too bad. After this footage was shot, I ragged it around and goofed with it some more - much to the horses delight - but the Temps went up to 160°F for about 2 mins, so I left it cool down and gave the dobbins a mint. -
****Official**** Corally Kronos/Shogun/XTR Thread
horatio replied to horatio's topic in Buggies, Truggies & Stadiums
So I thought I'd install a heatsink with twin fan. Rather than use the Yeah racing/Power Hobby heat sink, I found the exact same, unbranded item. Next, I utilised the fans from a Surpass Hobby heatsink, with WCF covers. These were then mounted using 8 screws instead of the 4 screws and the 4 standoffs (which I think would be a terrible idea). Careful positioning of the heatsink is required to ensure clearance of the centre driveline. Wires routed, it's a tight squeeze getting the y lead into the XTR's radio box, but it's possible to with tweezers.