horatio

Here's a curious thing. The ESC and Kuron 825 motor I ordered came with no manual. However, the Kronos XTR - which obviously isn't supplied with either of the above - came supplied with manuals for the ESC and the pistol grip radio., 🤔

That's useful to know! Has to be easier than toggling through 1 to nine, remembering that 5 is a long flash... Yada Yada. 😂

Is that all it is? I know that Kraton EXB owners that have installed the Corally electronics have stated that their rigs are faster. Kronos gearing is 13t input 43t crown vs Kraton 10t input 43t crown. That obviously makes a significant difference to the rollout and overall ratios. However, that would come at the expense of torque/acceleration and there's no shortage of that either? Go figure. 🤔 What we need to see is the TC ESC/Motor combo Dyno'd vs the other Spektrum/Hobbywing combos. All I know is that I've left my punch setting standard and it tries to flip just looking at the throttle. If I attempted to use a pistol grip radio at this point, I'd forever be breaking my own shins. 😂

I think it is from what I've gleaned, but Corally have turbo charged the firmware for use with their motor - it would seem. Definitely greater than the sum of it's parts. No one seems to know how! Funilly enough, Corally used to make awesome brushed motors as well 'back in the olden days' 😂

Thanks for the heads-up. 👍 When I was thinking of getting a brushless rig, I heard people saying that Hobbywing were the way to go. However, I've also seen people state that for some reason, the Kuros Motor and ESC were just bonkers power-wise. I saw a couple of videos showing Hobbywing on 6S and the Corally stuff on 4S looking very similar. 🤔 Cost wise, I think I got the motor and ESC for about £170 including shipping and it arrived within 48 hours of placing the order. I can't really grumble because the XTR was on a stupidly low black Friday price as well. I might save the Hobbywing stuff for when I get the Basherqueen riser kit. 😂

Thank you. I like the hot rod flames - one of the few I can get right using rattle cans. 😊 As for 'Forums vs Facebook', personally it's a no brainer. Forums win out for me every time. People seem ridiculously lost without Facebook. I've never understood it. Especially now that everyone knows which 3 letter agencies were behind it. Regardless of all that, I prefer browser based, reading and researching than I do noseying and sticky-beaking on Facebook.

Yeah, it's all going Facebook, Instagram, Twitter, Discords and all that. I'm afraid I don't do that - not because I'm an old fart, but because it's against my personal values. It's the bane of many people's lives, yet they seem unable to live without it for more than 30 seconds. **Facepalms really hard** 🙈

Thank you. I really like reading threads when I'm trying to find about things, especially when they're illustrated. It's cool to watch YouTube, but sometimes it's better to read and look at photos - at your own pace - than it is to sit through videos at someone else's. Ads and jingles and dodgy mic's etc etc. This is why I think forums are awesome.

That's great - father and son enjoying rigs like this together. 👍 I think the Corally trucks are great. The XTR is compared directly with the EXB as you might expect. Prominent YouTubers gave the XTR some very harsh treatment, followed by some very poor reviews. As I'm quite sure most of us won't repeatedly lawn dart our trucks fom 40 foot in the air, the truck's build is sufficiently burly to withstand jumps and tumbles. In fairness to Corally, the front hubs have been revised, but the XTRs are still supplied with the original ones. This hasn't been an issue for me yet, but we'll see. By all accounts, Corally ship out the revised items upon request if you've bought a new Kronos. What's quite apparent though, the Corally trucks are smooth, quiet and the electronics package is (for some reason) much quicker and torqier than the competition's. 😎😁

Much obliged! I have lurked on this Forum for years, so my Kronos XTR write up really needed to be here. I promise to get it all dirty soon. It's insane and there are plenty of places this thing has got to go. Anyone here know anything about the Basherqueen motor riser?

Cheers! This thread was started in November on a different forum and I've transferred it here. As far as I can make out - besides the RTR coming with radio and electronics of course - the differences are primarily: Carbon fibre stiffeners on chassis 7075 Alloy Towers and Braces Alloy Centre diff Hardened steel outdrives and axles All this brushless malarkey is new to me - I'm a nitro/petrol head - so please note I have no previous experience with the Kronos XP.

So, when it comes to bling, it has to fulfill 1 or more of the following criteria. It has to be useful It has to be shiny shiny Or carbon fibre-y So, with that in mind, the item here from POS was 2 out of 3! Just the ticket - nice clean shocks, axles and camber links. I didn't use the shiny Cap head screws, but used hi-tensile black button heads, which are more in keeping with the rest of the car.

Well today, I have concluded that all my years racing and tinkering with RC cars has brought me to the exact right spot.I haven't rushed into everything or bought loads of stuff that I didn't really like, but on the other hand, I haven't really been static either or limited myself to just one niche.Imagine my surprise when, after running my Kronos XTR for the first time, I realised that brushless is everything I liked about my 1/10th electric and 1/8th IC Buggys all rolled into a big, bad, insane Truggy. If the Xray XT8 was a scalpel, the Kronos XTR would be a chainsaw.It's literally awesome. I haven't had this much fun since I waited for the overnight charge of my Tamiya 7.2v hump pack to finish up so I could go blast my Sand Scorcher around the Alleys!In fairness, it sounds smooth and uneventful but it belies a machine that is bonkers in every way. 6S is OTT but fun. On 4S it would probably still be far from sensible, but less stressful!Amazingly, it's still all in one piece and hasn't been scuffed up yet. Wheelies occur just by looking at the throttle. I'd hate it to get road rash, but it's going to happen....

So the AGF-RC A81BHMW was fitted with the anti-vibration grommets and installed into radio box.It seems there are a growing number of pros that dislike using grommets, stating that centering is negatively affected.Personally, I find if the grommets are well fitted and tightened down just right, there's no perceptible centering issues at all.You'll see people discuss this and many claim that modern servo's IC boards and electronics are much less prone to vibration issues - though nobody appears in a hurry to actually explain how.In my estimation, they still have boards with tiny components soldered on to them in exactly the same way as before.I also read plenty of online stuff where people complain about manufacturers NOT replacing servos that have failed. Go figure.Having bound my Futaba 3VCS to the FrSky 4ch FASST receiver, I was ready to set endpoints on the servo and calibrate the ESC. Note: binding the receiver seemed not to be working at first - but this was because my transmitter was on a new model setup with 'PCM' modulation as default. This was set to HRS and it was then ready to bind.According to the Corally ESC instructions, Futaba radios need to have their throttle channel set to 'Rev', so I that's what I did With the 6S Gens Ace 60C 4800 lipo hooked up, I set the throttle neutral, full and brake points.To my utter astonishment, it all works flawlessly first time and the servo is super smooth, accurate, fast and near silent. Very impressed!The red alloy horn supplied wasn't appearing to fit the splines on my servo very well, so I used the nice clamping horn supplied with the AGF-RC 81BMHW

So, the AGF-RC A81BHMW has been on my bench for a couple of days and Christmas holidays approach......Neat packaging, rosey coloured displayNice alloy clamping horn providedMounting grommets and nylon hornsIt's looking like a very high value package with good specs. It's fine to run on 8.4v, so 45kg torque and 0.08/60° speed should be ample everything for a Truggy. Waterproof and also programmable (for those that feel the need to get geeky with their servos).Let's see how it does......

Gubbins installed - just waiting on Servo now.

Dual lock used for firm securing of ESC & Switch. I can literally pick the truck up by the ESC! So it's much better than velcro. The other nice thing is, you can pry them off without having to re-apply double sided tape all the time, which was one of things I hated with electric 1/10th.I've used this stuff on the Drones as well and it's awesome. I'll always keep this stuff in my pit box.I removed the battery holder and noticed the non-captive nut is also not a nyloc, which is a bit disappointing, so it's been replaced with one. The next very minor gripe is the lack of screw that holds the ESC mounting plate to the chassis. The counter sunk hole was there in the chassis, but the M3 screw had simply not been installed during the factory build.Yet another example of why it's better to build these kind of cars yourself. There's simply no way somebody on a line can afford the same kind of loving attention to detail as we can.Things are much more likely to stay put now. I'm convinced that a 6S battery flapping about isn't a good idea. 🤣

Picked up one of these 6S 60C Gens Ace Hard Case Lipos at a good price. Might get a couple of 4S as well for more sensible running.

Tech Elite So, onto the electronics which are being fitted today. I'm ordering a AGF-RC A81BHMW servo - I've seen no bad reports for these and whilst I've got a nice selection of Protek 170's in my other cars, I'm struggling to source them at a sensible price at this current time. I don't really feel like paying £170 or more.

Looks nice in both flavours IMO, but it's nice to have 1 that's different to the rest.

Body complete, with grill and lights behind the lexan.

Well, cobbled this together this afternoon.MaskingMore maskingBright gun metalWork in progress...It seems I've produced a...... LST! 🤣0

RC Guy Garage didn't have much luck with his.However, I encouraged him to persevere. Amazingly he responded with this! You Tube

For now, I've ordered Torox/Kuros 185 electronics. This motor esc combination is very rapid on 6S and smooth/controllable on 4S, so seems a logical place to start.From what I gather, I can get a motor mount riser from Basherqueen if I want to experiment with 'big block' motors, negating any need to gouge or trim any of the side guard mounting screws.It's far quieter here in relation to the Kronos than I was expecting, but I suppose RCTech is not the usual forum for bashers.I'll keep updating this thread though. There are bound to be some other members that get one soon......

So, today I had time to take the body off and have a detailed look at the chassis. All seems way better than you'd typically find on a pre-asembled RC Car.I was really impressed by the addition of an extra body - that's a really nice touch, along with a spare set of decals.Instructions seem clear enough, printed in mono onto paper. It's not something I worry too much about these days as instructions are significantly better than they used to be. If you're looking for glossy, brochure-like instructions - these ain't that. But everything you need to know is there.Size wise, wheelbase and arm length are quite similar to a race-oriented Truggy, only with significantly larger diameter wheels/tyres.Overall, the Kronos has at least an inch or so wider footprint than a typical truggy, with this extra width coming from the tyres rather than the actual track width.A 1/8th monster truck with 40 series is likely going to be wider however - as this Savage demonstrates.So, the Kronos sits in a really nice zone somewhere between racing truggy and big 1/8th monster truck.With the shell off, the quality of this rig starts to shine. It's not your typical Basher Truck.This is exactly why I chose it over an Kraton EXB. Don't get me wrong, if my trip down brushless lane goes well, I may be tempted to get one of those as well. But for now, I don't feel starting with this beast has been a bad idea at all.I have no idea what spline count is on the alloy horn, but it's nice that they include one!Motor mount looks really nice.All the screws have tidy, countersunk washers for the countersunk, hi-tensile, steel screws. Nice.The chassis is 3mm 7075. Now I suppose if you jump to the moon and lawn dart, it's going to fold in half. If you jump intelligently and set your shocks right - 3mm of 7075 should prove strong enough for most of us whilst remaining nice and light.However - this is a rig that will typically have 4+ HP motor powering it, compared to a Nitro truggy that likely never see more than 3 HP. Food for thought. Front and rear ends - anti-roll bar need slight adjustment to remove a little too much float, but really easily remedied.Lower arms front and rear have the option for WCF inserts. By the looks of things, on the front arms, these can be placed both sides of the lower arms. That's a fair number of inserts.Making the arms more rigid may help stop the arms bending past the point where they break, but on the other hand......lets just say that flexible arms are generally what you'd need if you're bashing and rigid, stiff arms are what you'd be shooting for if you're looking for consistent, precision handling - especially in hotter climates - where plastics can get a bit wibbley wobbly.Camber on the front right wheel is positive - so this obviously needs some adjustment. Steering alignment seems good, with a hint of toe out, which is what I would usually start out with on a 4WD.Pre-painted body has a graffiti vibe going on...The body has an over-spray film left on, so it's worth making a note of this before rushing to put the pre-cut decals on! I wonder how many people have put their decals straight on over it?The front grill and light decal is large and doesn't really line up with the lines on the body, so I actually cut the lights off, fitted the grill first centrally, then placed the lights.The smaller decals are easy for most people to apply, but the temptation with pre-cut ones is to just peel the larger decals off the backing sheet as well. Then optimistically attempting to line them up as you stick them, whilst day dreaming of blasting the rig around. Don't bother.Cut the larger decals out of the sheet, peel one end of the decal, then roll the backing off as you apply it to the body. If you don't do this, between the static and all the other alignment issues, you'll end up with annoying bubbles that need prodding with a pin to remove. Decals on - this truck looks anarchic!The dorsal fin is an acquired taste, it's certainly different - in fact it's quite reminiscent of the old F1 racing cars of the 50's. There's no way I'm going to say it's less attractive than Arrma offerings - it's just different. I suppose the dorsal provides yet another surface to mount decals for your faux sponsors! One minor criticism - my body was pre painted, but also pre-scratched! It's no biggie, but I'm out of fluorescent orange. This Corally is a far cry from the Team Corally I knew growing up, with their 1/12th Circuit World Championships etc.If anyone tries to tell you that this Truck is a direct rip of the Arrma, rest assured, it genuinely isn't.The stand out for me is how silky smooth the whole driveline is. The gears are precision cut. XTR's are noticeably quieter than Kratons.These trucks are great news - Arrma and Corally should form a 'special relationship' and stop certain other brands from monopolising the truck market.One last thing - Corally. Their name is pronounced 'Cor'-'Alley'. Not 'Coe' 'Rally'. And definitely not 'Coral'-'Eee'. Please.....