daveyboi73
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Posts posted by daveyboi73
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11 hours ago, DinkyDavo said:
I’ve recently picked up a Vantage from EBay, it’s got aluminium steering Ackerman, knuckle and arms at the front. Though there seems to be left and right play in the wheels like the steering is lose. Anyone experienced this?
The alloy parts can wear quite quickly, especially the steering ackermann in alloy as it doesnt come with bushes for the screws, and the servo saver design is quite poor.
This guide may help with the steering slop to some degree.
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They have been around since the mid 90's or so. I remeber some guys racing that chassis back in the day That looks like the old pro touring chassis they did. There is a link to it on the companies website
Hope this helps
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12 hours ago, budman9 said:
Hi, is this upgraded vantage clone?
VRX racing manufacture and supply the models for FTX and other brands. It is not a clone and yes it is proper carbon too :D
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The maverick esc can only handle down to 15T motors .The titan will draw too much current
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oooooh now that is nice 😍
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2 hours ago, Addwhite said:
Anyone seen these on aliexpress? Full carbon upgrade rollers by vrx racing. They are just the ftx carnage and vantage under another name. They have both types.
The price is not bad for what you get when you think of how much you would pay for all those carbon and aluminum parts from ftx.
River hobby who VRX racing is the sub brand of, supply FTX, Redcat and integy and hobbyking etc with these chassis
They are good value though
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Link for FTX Alloy steering kits
They are for the Outlaw but the steering cranks are the same as the carnage/vantage/vandal etc
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Not sure why the video player in post though 🤣
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I looked at those sets but they dont use a bearing at the top wher the servo conects so its gonna wear and not center correctly etc after a little time.
To cure this problem you can also use a JAZRIDER HPI BULLET MT/ST Alloy crank set, Its only about £12
Bullet steering kit
You just use the bearings and the cranks, along with the FTX ackermann. You need to put the two stock bearings on the posts first, then add the cranks with ballraces intstalled and a few traxxas washers (TRX1985) or similar 5x8 shims to take up the slack under the top plate. You need to use a direct servo saver on the servo. The traxxas 2wd one will fit with a bit of dremmeling to the chassis, or the Tamiya high torque servo saver kit (in picture) or associated b6 saver work extrememly well to.As the cranks run on ballbearings, there is no slop and steering is direct, smooth and actually centers correctly everytime too. I have done this mod to the carnage and vantage, and also my
outlaw too. I have also fitted it to a mates carnage NT. It works even better if you add decent metal geared high speed/torque servo too.😁
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These combos are ok on 2S. They dont last long on 3S. For a vantage with stock wheels the 4300kv motor on 2S will be ok.If you want to fit bigger wheels etc, id reccomend going for under 4000kv, to prevent cogging and overheating. I use the 3800kv combo from goolrc in my outlaw, had it for over a year now, and had no problems .
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8 minutes ago, Fat Freddy said:
Interesting.
I got the Carnage front bumper and a hobbywing esc. They just seemed obvious improvements.
I have the carbon top plate on order.
I had planned to get a steel spur/pinion set here.... https://www.ebay.co.uk/str/djwrctransmissions
And I asked about a heatsink at my local model shop but they said it won’t fit under the Vantage body shell.
Other “Improvements” I have made are....
Sway bars
Carbon shock towers
A slightly better steering servo (9kg vs the stock 3.5kg)
Carnage wheels (and after my motor overheated, a carnage pinion)
I already realise the Carnage wheels were a mistake. I wanted extra ground clearance but although they are fun in their way, the tyres are too vague and bouncy. I plan to replace them with some truggy wheels with stiffer low profile tyres.... or fit low profile tyres on carnage rims?? Hopefully get back to more precise steering?
So, in your humble opinions.... bearing in mind I am currently running a stock brushed motor (although will inevitably switch to brushless eventually)....
Is a steel spur set overkill? Will the cheaper acetal one do fine?
Does the heatsink fit under the shell, or did you cut a hole to accommodate it?
Were my other “improvements” a waste of money?
I do waffle on don’t I? If you’ve been arsed to read this far thanks. Any advice or suggestions would be very welcome.
The alloy chassis is your best bet as this eliminate flex and prevents diffs braking/spurs stripping out due to flex. The carbon top plate will also add to the rigidity.
The heatsink can fit, just cut a hole in the body shell.
The acetal spur will be fine for a brushed motor, if you either upgrade to brushless or are having durability issues, only then invest in the steel set.
Carnage tires are not the best. A good set of 2.2 truggy wheels or even short course wheels should give you the improvement you are looking for. Just remeber to go down about 3-5 teeth on the pinion if you run larger than the stock wheel size.
The carbon towers are ok. Stick with the plastic body mounts though as the alloy ones can and will snap the tower if the impact is hard enough.-
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I thinks its down to the maverick (HSP) chassis having two large ribs down the centre of it, it is very stiff, unlike the FTX item which you can bend in half with little effort
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Not for the carnage
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On 30/05/2019 at 22:52, Hardcore said:
Unfortunately i rushed in headfirst without doing the proper research and bought a delrin 48p and a steel 0.6 mod from Ebay. A delrin 32p would have been best for me i think
I'm planning to run the 0.6 steel spur, alongside a steel 17t pinion. But before i run this set up i'm waiting for the carbon top plates to come back into stock first just in case i chew the steel one from the chassis flexing.
Can someone confirm as well as i'm quite new to the Carnage that there are 3 generations of stock chassis?
Some had holes in the battery tray
Some (mines) has a slot cut out under the speed gear
And the newer ones don't have the **** cut out in the battery or the spur.
Do any of the carbon /. aluminum chassis have the slot under the spur covered up like the newest plastic chassis?
All the alloy chassis have a cutout for spur. You can make a simple cover from a peice of lexan or similar. You can buy a sheet of lexan off ebay for a few quid. Here a quick one i did.You can also trace round the plate and cut out a full lexan skid plate too.
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I had one. The problem is the alloy will bend under heavy impacts and bends the center shaft etc, and then straightening it weakens it over time. The carbon plate is better bet, but yes dont cut it etc as the dust is really really bad for you.
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28 minutes ago, mydoddy69 said:
32dp ? For the buggy ? Now thats a whole different story 👍👍
Indeed . I run 32 DP on both carnage and vantage. I do a delrin 32DP spur too
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My spurs are 48 and 32 DP. I agree 0.6 is a pain in the butt for options
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Putting the larger wheels on increased the load on the motor, simple as that.The 5700k castle motors can be run on 3S but its not reccomended. Running the standard buggy wheels would have been ok for speed runs on 3S but anything else would strain motor.
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Yes they are the same indeed !!!
Chinese company River hobby supplies Ftx / Turnigy etc and its own racing sub brand is VRX racing
Some of the full carbon and alloy VRX racing chassis are well worth the cash,much cheaper way of getting upgrades too.
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The ftx esc are rebranded hobbyking Xcar models.They do have a low voltage cutoff as standard. :)
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There is usually a bit of play even in rtr models yes. If it really becomes a problem where it affects steering trim etc then there are upgrades as well. With a 2wd slash, adding 4x 5x8x2.5 bearings to replace the stock pastic bushings will increase response and reduce slop in a bit too
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Invest in the alloy chassis plate and the carbon topdeck, as this eliminates chassis flex both sideways and front to rear. One of the main reasons the diffs break on these cars is that upon heavy landings and impacts, the front and rear housing flex backward and push the crown wheels teeth against the unmachined edge on the pinion at each end of the main shaft, and as this does not move, the teeth are sheared of the crown wheel. Its such a simple but MAJOR design flaw. SInce fitting the alloy plate/carbon top deck, 3 shims crownside and two on the opposite and packing the cases with cv grease, i have not broken a diff at all, even runing the 32DP sor kit and 3S lipo over the last 9 months or so
I am looking into getting a fully hardened set sorted at this time also. Unfortunatly it takles a while as have to finsd a decent suplier who will cut them for a decent price.
I agree with nickarla fully, it is frustrating.
Maybe if enought of us ask RPM they may look at doing some arms etc. They will if they get enough enquireis about it.
FTX Bugsta/Carnage Battery Tray
in General - Electric
Posted
Battery tray
I got round this by buying the the above tray and just marking the holes, drilling through, counter sinking and attaching the tray through the chassis with m4 screws.
I sold the car a few years ago now but dug up some pics for reference.