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nheather

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  1. I have a new body for my son's Hyper 7. When you apply the stickers do you seal it with a varnish? If so what do you use - do you just use a generic polyurethane varnish spray or something specific. Cheers, Nigel
  2. Yes I appreciate that. My question was whether the STNV should be set with the 1mm gap or whether I should temporariliy remove it (since it was siad that the adjustment should be done with throttle closed). Cheers, Nigel
  3. Many thanks - final question. The throttle stop is currently set at 1mm gap with throttle closed. Should I set the STNV like this or should I remove the throttle stop so that the throttle can close all the way? Cheers, Nigel
  4. Many thanks, I got that bit - it comes after the 'close off the throttle body against the screw' bit that I don't understand. Does it mean I have to hold the throttle closed and then start turning the needle? Cheers, Nigel
  5. I've just finished sealing a troublesome Mach 28 and want to put the carb back to factor settings. For the Sub Throttle Needle Valve the manual says this My immediate question is what does 'close off the throttle body against the screw' actually mean. Cheers, Nigel
  6. I have been following this excellent guide http://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/index.php?showtopic=70981 I have done my backplate and the blanking screw for the booster bottle. Just the carb left to do, but I have a question first. In the photographs, it shows the part of the carb that slides into the engine without an O-Ring. Mine has an O-Ring. So is this deliberate - you will acheive a better seal with the gasket than with the O-Ring. Should I remove the O-Ring and use sealent or should I keep the O-Ring aswell as the sealent? Cheers, Nigel
  7. 2 years ago £1 = $2.00 Then at £140, the engine cost $280 Now £1 = $1.50 So now, at £190, the engine costs $285 So the price of the engine has stayed pretty much the same for the last 2 years. Cheers, Nigel
  8. Many thanks - mystery solved. So given I'm not going to be fitting the Boost Chamber what is the best way to seal the screw - I have some copper based silicone gasket - should I use it with or without the fibre washer. Cheers, Nigel
  9. You can see it in this picture No nut on the end - the crankcase is threaded. Cheers, Nigel
  10. It's a Mach 8. Not an idle gap - this screw is in the engine crankcase, not in the carb. No it isn't the cinch bolt that holds the carb in. I'll try and sort out a picture. Cheers, Nigel
  11. My engine has a screw just below the carb. It doesn't fix anything, just fills a hole. So a couple of questions 1 - What is it for. The only thing I can think of is a lubrication hole for the crankshaft - but you can do that by squirting oil down the carb throat. 2 - I'm ready to seal my engine. None of the tutorials mention this. The screw has a fibre washer - is that sufficient or should I add copper gasket material. If I do then should I keep the fibre washer in place or remove it? Many thanks for the help. Cheers, Nigel
  12. No not stuck on top of liner or on old button - that was the first place I checked. The problem is not which ones to buy but which ones to fit. As you say, they are cheap and I actually have the full range Brass 0.1mm Copper 0.1mm Copper 0.2mm Aluminium 0.3mm I have the copper ones because at the time there were none to be had in the UK at all so I ordered from the US. They supply the Dynamite parts. WHilst they were in transit the UK stock became available so I also have the Hobao parts. The problem is that I don't know which ones to fit? The dynamite exploded diagram shows 0.1mm and 0.2mm copper The hobao exploded diagram shows 0.1mm brass and 0.3 mm aluminium What neither of them show is whether they should both be fitted or just one. And if just one, which one under which conditions. Cheers, Nigel
  13. Many thanks, Agree, that isn't where it shows. The manual shows Heatsink (Cylinder Head) Button 0.3mm aluminium gasket (shim) 0.1mm brass gasket (shim) Cylinder lining But it doesn't make it clear whether both should be fitted or just one. I've been researching a bit more and found that you should put an extra shim in if you are using >25% or sometimes when breaking the engine in. So if I need only one, should it be the 0.3mm or the 0.1mm ? Cheers, Nigel
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