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Found 11 results

  1. Hi all, I'm new to lipo batteries, and need a basic and relatively cheap lipo battery charger (under £30 preferrably). I only really need it to charge one battery at a time, but I need one that I can select the amps on, as I don't want to be charging a 4000mah battery all day. There are so many to choose from I am thoroughly confused. Any recommondations please? Thank you
  2. Hi, I have very little knowledge of lithium ion and lipo batteries as I have always just used NIMH with my Tamiya kits. I recently bought a Blackzon Smyter monster truck for my son for Christmas (at least, that's what I keep telling myself). It came with a Lithium Ion 1500mah 7.4v battery (https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/blackzon-smyter-battery-pack-li-ion-74v-1500mah-w-t-plug-1347537). The hobby shop also sold me this lipo as an extra battery as apparently this car will take a 2s lipo. (https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/ftx-tracer-lipo-74v-1000mah-25c-t-plug--1333706). So my question is, how should I store the lithium Ion battery when not in use? Fully charged or do I have to discharge it to a 3.8v before storing? If so, is there a cheapish lithium ion / lipo charger that can display the voltage? Secondly, the lipo battery is only very small. Should I buy a lipo charging firesafe bag or is there no need? Same question applies to this battery, regarding storage and how to check the voltage? The car came with a USB charger cable and I was told by the hobby shop that the charger will also charge the lipo. I was questioned that but was told it would be fine. Many thanks
  3. Hi FolksI have just become aware that the very popular iMAX B6 chargers have a large number of counterfeit / fake / cloned chargers for sale on the likes of eBay and Amazon. I have bought a 2nd-hand one off flea-bay and it seems to work fine. Topped up a LiPo pack (before I was aware of the counterfeit issue) and it seemed to stop at the appropriate point and not overcharge the battery (checed with a separate LiPo battery checker)Are the only GENUINE iMAX B6 chargers made by SKYRC and have the 'scratch n sniff' holographic sticker on the base? Or are some versions 'badge engineered versions' of this? If the others are counterfeit / fake / clones then they seem to have gone to inordinate lengths to make them look 'just right' (apart from the large bold white B6 or B6AC lettering which they all apart from the SKYRC models seem to have)Regarding the (and I'll be gracious here) clones/copies okay or are some better than others?If some are better than others (as I suspect), how can you get a 'good' clone as opposed to a bad one?? Is there any way to identify these? Do some have worrying characteristics like not balancing cells correctly or over or under-charcing the cells? If so, how can you tell these apart from the others?Really wandering around in the dark here. Some B6's appear to be very cheap (= fake / avoid) whereas others seem to be top price.Expensive doesn't necessarily mean better?? Sorry, lots of questions! Thanks in advance, Zaph
  4. I have a 2 of Rhino's 3 cell 5000maH lipo and a YEP ESC 180A HV (4~14S) Brushless Speed Controller. I tried connecting them to the ESC and it started fuming at the connector. Even with only 1 battery it also was fuming. To be clear, it is only fuming at the XT60 connectors and the ESC did not fume.
  5. Hey all, I've bought a Traxxas Rustler XL-5 and it already has a few upgraded in it, primarily being the Hobbywing EZRUN MAX10 ESC and the HobbyWing EZRUN 3652 G2 3300KV Brushless Motor. I'm currently running a 2S LiPo in my car but I'd quite like to upgrade it to a 3S LiPo. I already know that the ESC can handle a 3S LiPo as I just have to reprogram it for 3S, but would the gears in the car itself be able to handle the extra speed from the motor and not wear out quickly? I should also mention that the car has a steel 30 tooth idle gear and a steel ring in the differential, if that makes any difference. Any help is appreciated as I'm quite a noob at RC and don't know a whole load about it. Thanks!
  6. Hi, I’m in real need of help. I’m not an expert as is probably very obvious but I need some advice to get me going. As a kid I did a lot of this with my dad but as time goes by I tried to get back into this as an adult with my son and I’m out of my depth now. I brought a Schumacher icon F1 and assembled the chassis etc... but I just can’t get it wired up. I’ve tried researching as much as I can but I am getting nowhere. I have replaced the connectors so they all connect now but please tell me what I am doing wrong. Couple of issues: 1.) is this how you connect a 2s shorty lipo battery? The white but I use when charging but does it need connecting anywhere on the actual rc car? Also I have a 6 prong motor cable that connects to my esc but my brushless motor has no port for it. Is that right? 2.) when I try to sync my controller up the esc flashes purple, sometimes blue, sometime red. Once I got the controller to operate the servo but now even that’s stoped and the service is locked in place. The motor has never worked though. 3.) Basically I’m in a total mess now and spending hours with no plan or way out. Probably I was a bit stupid trying to do this one first but I’m in it now. If anyone as any advice on how I can wire this up and sync my controller that would be great, like I said I’ve tried lots but i can’t find any step by steps that apply to what I have thanks Carl
  7. Greetings folks 😊. I intended to run these two packs together to run my Arrma Typhon on 6s... However I failed to check the dimensions and one pack alone practically fills the battery bay. 2x Turnigy Nano-Tech 8400mAh 11.1V 3S, 40-80c discharge w/ deans plugs I'm based in Sunderland and Ideally I'd like to swap these for a single 6s pack or two 3s packs of smaller dimensions so long as what you have is >5000mah >35C w/ EC5 or Deans plugs. A chance for someone to trade up in the mAh world on the back of my error. 😊 I'd possibly be interested in a swap for brushless combos for 1/10 or marine, tx/rx etc... Feel free to hit me up with any other RC swaps you may have... The least I can say is no. Thanks for looking and have a nice day.
  8. Hi all, back again with another possibly daft question! I have a Rhino 4S 5000mAh that I needed to put in storage mode but from fully charged. It seems to be taking a really long time, the 120 min timer on my charger cut off twice and it still wasn't done. Is it normally this slow for a single 4S when storage charging from full with it draining rather than charging? My Gens ace 2x 2S batteries went from around 87% to storage in a reasonable amount of time. I have a SkyRC D100 V2 if that helps, the only thing I've done to the Rhino battery is pop an EC5 connector on there, could a bad solder joint cause this? Also, I haven't got round to running the car with the battery yet. I checked the voltage and cells and all are fine. Thanks. Andy.
  9. Price £50 + 12.post (24hr) edit - sold.... Radio Controlled Lipo Battery 6s 22.2v Tunrigy Heavy Duty 60-120c Lipo Battery. Condition is Used. Dispatched with Royal Mail 24hr Class. Good condition batteries... Ones hardly been used...Great condition - ready to go The other has seen moderate usage.... Shrink wrapping started peeling so taped it up... Also needs one connector resoldering. Both have been balanced charged to roughly storage charge...both are perfectly OK functionally. Expensive new
  10. My old charger setup, currently used as my back-up but just takes up space. Consists of a Fusion Twin 200W power supply, capable of powering 2 chargers, 1x Turnigy Max 80W charger and 1x Turnigy Accucel 6 charger. The green 80W charger has a slight mark on the screen which occurred during delivery to me and doesn't affect the operation of the charger. Some of the paint has worn off the Accucel from use - please study photos. Looking for £38 all in, tracked and insured
  11. Since I bought the Losi 5ive, I have been looking for a suitable LiPo to replace the stock NiMh. Yes, I could have spent
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