Lo-couk

It might be solid and heavy, but the suspension bolts on mine seemed to be rather.. "flexable" shall we say! Mind you, saying that when I bought it I didn't give it a propper going over to make sure everything was tight, hence the rear driveshaft going AWOL. Well, it's all tight and shipshape now...

So when it come to FWD or RWD whats best when it comes down to bashing? I guess on tarmac RWD is the one to go failing 4wd.. My ATX is kinda sluggish on acceleration, i've been tweaking the fuel mix without much change There's an Idle screw which I've left alone and another which I've been tweaking slightly too.

Greetings and salutations all and sundrie, I have a Horobo XRB SR Lama and it's great, But I keep getting through the main rotor blades and it's getting kinda expensive at £8.75 per set, with 2 sets needed. My local model shoppe has a plastic rotor blade that should fit in their opionon, I didn't get the make but has anyone tried non hirobo plastic blades, and if so what is the strength and lifespan like? Cheers Geezers and Geezerettes.

Thanx for the info Rich, I found my "shaft" in around 15 Min's of creating and using my magnetic broom. It had grass wrapped around it an was extremely well camouflaged. I'm thinking I'll order more neodymium magnets and make a meter long broom, so far it's been great for finding that bit and saved some £'s to the Mrs's relie f...

I had a flash of inspiration, I stuck some nails in a broom and put stuck neodymium magnets (7 of em) on the nail heads. I then did a sweep of the crash area, and (Hey bloody hell whats goin on presto) it picked up my lost shaft. 4WD, here's hitting the field again.

Last weekend I took my Truggy for a blast round the football field, I finished the the blast with a bash. I hit a goalpost with the backend which pulled out a rear driveshaft. I've searched all week for it in vein and had no luck. I know I'll need a hell of alot of luck because it's akin to a needle in a haystack! Being 4WD would it do any damage to components to run around with 3WD?

Round 2 Ding Ding, yawn... Come on guy's thrpw in the towel! LOL Time to close the thread eh?

I wanted to know if 3 in 1 was ok to use, and is ARO "Just an Oil"?(See Above) It's my guess now, that any kind of oil is ok short term but for longer periods it's best to use ARO... Errr, am I right in beliving that would be the low down on the subject?

I would have thought that even the lesser known manufactures would use oil resistant seals, I wasn't thinking seals specifically on my original post. I was thinking of long term degradation of the engine as a whole by using other types of oil. Dose Nitro-methane actually react with the metals in the engine, is it the moisture it absorbs that corrodes the metals. To me the term "Rust" is oxidation of any metal, ferrous or not. Dose ARO have a stickyness that holds it on the unmoving upper parts of the engine for longer periods, dose it drain to the crankcase? Whats so B****Y special about it to call it ARO?

I've never stripped one of these engines yet, but by seal I guess we are talking an 'O' ring? Right? If an 'O' ring is housed in a fixed grooved outer casing with a rotating shaft passing through the middle, it cannot expand outward and the only clearance it has to expand is against the rotating shaft, therefore it will try to expand inwardly causing hotspots, making part of the seal go brittle, cracking and leaking... Do you have this problem often? rofl

Tim, A seal will expand evenly provided it can, like in the bench, In situ it can only expand to where there may be a gap for it to expand to, else it will cause Excess friction, burn and leak.

Oil seals on a car engine are a silicone based rubber, this is to stop mineral oil (10W/40 engine oil or petrol) from rotting them, the same goes for your oil filter 'O' ring. If you park your car in an oil puddle the rubber on the tyre will soften as it is a very different type of rubber. Do R/C engines use the same rubber on their engine seals as a Saab or Vauxhall? If they do use the same rubbers, surely you can use what you want... I have a gripe with WD40 as it disolves lubricating oil and will run into the crankcase quickly leaving the top end dry. I use the stuff at home for washing my hands, I pre wash my hands with it to get the heavy grease and oil off my hands before I use the washing up liquid to get rid of the WD40.

Ok... I'm convinced! ARO it is... LOL Mind you I could just run the engine up to running temp every week or so, maybe..

It ran off because the linkage fell off somewhere and gravity did it's part opening the throttle full. I've swapped the wiring from the controll box, Ie. The throttle dose steering and vice versa, and now the steering judders. Looks like it's the blue Sanwa box with the crystal in it is at fault. Oh bugger.. I bet that bit is real expensive from the looks of whats insde it!

Thanx Ziggy, I'm off to spend some £'s tommorow mush to the Mrs's annoyance...

The only failsafe was me legging it 150 yards across the field, with TX in hand and a look of panic on my face. I've just botched a bit of stiff wire between the carb and servo. It sort of works, but I'll take a trip to Morley Models tomorrow and see if they can help. I suppose I could find a spring to pull shut the carb if that happens again. I'm starting to think I've bought a bit of a lemon, I'm having trouble setting up the carb/engine. I have looked at the video's and tried to follow them but I'm not sure on the settings.

I took my cen f.factor ATX for a bash this evening, things were a bit unresponsive but seemed to trot along ok for a while, the throttle opened to full and the car rolled over at the opposite side of the football feild. I cut the engine burning my thumb whilst blocking the exhaust, but on closer inspection I noticed my throttle linkage has vanished. Are these a universal thing or will I need an origonal ATX one? Also my throttle servo also seems to move slightly back and forth 1mm when the TX is switched on and not being touched, could this be due to dying batterys? Oh, if I turn the TX off the servo behaves... Cheers people... Nige...

My cen F.Factor Atx has been broken in on 20% nitro, it has an NT-16 engine and from reading reports it's not a prefered engine. I was given half a litre of 20% nitro when I bought the car, and that stuff made it go like a rocket. Now thats run out I've gotta get some new fuel, so would 16% nitro make much differance to performance/starting and engine life? I'm not into racing, just bashing around in the field behind our house and don't really want to break kids ankles if I run into them. (Mind you, there is a kid I'll ask to put his head on the ground! and get a N2O kit fitted for the event) Thanx for any advice offered chaps and chapesses!

Thanx James, I'll get the hang of it one day!

Thanx everybody for the rapid replies, it's time to get oiling LOL

I've bought my first Nitro car last week, (2nd hand) don't scoff because I know most of you guy's and gals don't like cen. It's a cen fun factor ATX, and it ammuses me immensely so I'm happy for now. I've been running 20% nitro mix and all is well, but I've been lead to belive that RC fuel is hydroscopic and leave the engine open to corrosion. I have no ARO, would "3 in one Tm" oil be ok short term?

I get this message come up "Sorry, dynamic pages in the tags are not allowed" when I put the tags in!

Hi guy's My first post so i thought I'd show you what I've recently bought for £120, I don't know if I got a bargain or what but it goes like doggy doo doo off a shovel! It's 2nd hand but everything seems in working order, it's my 1st RC nitro car and I know nothing about them so tip's would be gratfuly recived... Cheers all. www.esato.com/phonephotos/viewphotos.php?pid=6506 Ps. how do I put a photo in this forum frame?