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Redback

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Everything posted by Redback

  1. If you ever change your mind 😉 Theres a few out there for pennies but if its a common thing, understandable, the other option is a merc clk from the 2000s the old lap cars, love the clk look if a clk gt was on the table mmm 🤤
  2. Rotting? Is it litterly rotted apart and un motable or is it unused but roadworthy, looking for a scubi doo
  3. Those are huge and wont fit, they will scrub if not on everything atleast the shocks, rails and side trays. Also a note, you do not need fans on the motor or the esc, unless your planning on doing 50mph in it, they dont get hot, they run cool enough to no need fans, fans reduce your runtime and are not needed, they do sound fun "buzz" but its car not a fan 😉
  4. never needed a metal motor plate, i know the metal parts if they are not traxass will not line up correctly and usally need some manual work / grinding to get them to seat together you also shouldnt need to gear down, unless you find it to fast, you will not have issues with torque
  5. 1st drive, trimming the steering, touched a curb and snapped... First feels arnt good, jittery and noisy, my cheap ftx have taken way worse and are fine 😞 hope its a once off and not a consistently weak part, otherwise wont bode well for speed running. Also read the spur gears melt in these, i have the aftermarket speed gears, its plastic 😞 doh Edit: Least the roller comes with 2 spare front uprights. Must be a known weak point, all fixed 😅
  6. Yes its about spot on, as i have the full fat 2 speed, the high kv is fine as you can go low range for the technical stuff and highrange for long distances, went the high kv as can always gear down if more torque is needed (never is)
  7. Cant go wrong with the axe / fusions, the fusions were not as reliable as the axe when it comes to bec and burnouts maybe the pro has fixed the teething issues. The low down control on those is 2nd to none. I run the 550l 3300kv in our trx4, wonderful combo.
  8. What @Stormbringer said +focus on the portals and brass along with heavy wheels, then 2 stage foams to stop the tires folding over from all the extra weight. Due to the extra weight this will affect its durability long term eg roll overs that would be fine may snap panhards, so metal panhard is good, keep some things plastic to take the flex if there is a big roll. Stock servo and metal horn upgrade is worth it for turning power if your adding weight, aim for 35kg+ and 7.4v if you want it to really pull its weight, then some form of brushless setup or esc upgrade to push out full bec voltage and amps to the servo. The servo is only as good as its power source. Enjoy, fun trucks, will make it way more stable on side hills and a good crawler great.
  9. Can't go wrong there mate, good investment 😉 Maybe ill do a 1/10 scale version, can see it fitting well enough, or maybe ill add a rocket motor and make a chassis for the body.
  10. Get some pipe, put in some 1/10 scale wheels and hubs, bolt to some metal, do this 4 more times and you have a rolling road. otherwise can fab one up with metal but just thinking how you could make one from off the shelf bnq parts. Plastic pipe, Bearings, Threaded rod and bolts, Aliminum angle plate. Poprivits. Tires and wheels that are spare and can go inside the pipe snugly and sit on the threaded bar.
  11. I would never pre order anything, whats the support going to be like, what about the company in a year. Pre orders for computer games should be a good example, people pre order stuff because, Fomo and there for are usally sold half complete products. There is no rush, get it when it releases, consider pre order a bit like kickstarter, unless its in some ones hands and they have a production line, your buying into the idea. Save your money and let some one else fund the idea and see if it goes anywere. If your wanting something to measure speeds, cant go wrong with a skyrc gnss or similar product (garmin) that has a good reputation.
  12. Forward mounted battery means the ride height isnt as affected as it seems, due to it compressing when loaded with a battery and even more so when breaking, thus wound all the way down you dont bottom out as much, I find little improvments with shock oils when the ftx ones tend to leak it out. In my outlaw thread you can see the results when testing, limited roll overs (even no sway bar on mine (silver / red one tested on 4s and3s mod 1).
  13. Ftx sway bar from the carnage for the fronts, either currie or home made rear bar, don't waste money on the ebay junk. The bar is cheese.
  14. Indeed, as usual no better crawling or bashing place within 30min. 🙂 If you dont mind all the sheep poop 😛
  15. Cleaned the trucks after a good run, pressure washed the used to leave them in the drying cupboard Now i get the shop vac, put it on blow mode and what a job it does drying out the fiddly bits. Highly recommended and very satisfying to do 🙂 The lad fitted his carbon towers, FTX carbon towers are a joke... WARNING 1st up dont supply the right screws and no standoffs for the rear. 2nd the holes are not the right size for the screw hardware so need to be opened up to the right size with a drill. The fronts needed drilling at the upper links, The rears needed the same and the shock mounting screw holes are all to small. 3rd shouldnt have to do all that S**t, why isnt it just right... -5/10 Worst parts ive ever installed, was supposed to be a fun easy job for the lad, ended up taking an hour 😞
  16. Well, im only giving advice based on what worked for me and the coutless hours spent resolving the outlaw issues, stiffer springs are the way to go, but you can also get a way without, as per the 2 outlaws shown. I wont spread false truths, just what works for me.
  17. Hardens the compression, less bottoming out.
  18. Yeah can get hex adaptors for 1/8th wheels to 1/10 hex
  19. Hobao Buggy 1/8th front springs, from 2005 blue coating, think its the softer version, (purple were stiffer) its the length that helps as stops bottoming out. Sure there is same to be found or take the rear outlaw springs and cram them on the fronts 🙂 Otherwise wind the collars all the way down with the stock ones and add a sway bar, should help a bunch.
  20. Stiffer springs is the way to go, I use 1/8 springs on the front, you also will find the sway bars help, along with harder foams in the front tires as its rolling due to the soft side walls rolling and biting. Move the battery forward onto of the top brace, check the outlaw thread for all these tips and more.
  21. Body fitment, as expected had to do some trimming off the front towers nothing drastic.
  22. No gyro, as it can make the car loose control at high speeds, trying to self correct oscillation in the steering.
  23. Slow gearing out, stock High speed gearing in. Could go a little more crazy as pinions fit the 5mm drive shaft, woot! Seeing what else will work, if the servo is moved out the way.
  24. Thanks chaps, forgot hpi screws were cheese, already rounded 2 getting the servo plate out. Esc fits snugly behind the small motor, if a longer can is needed then id have to forward mount the servo, still might do it to free up some chassis space. Most annoying is the inability to run contact foams as the wheels hit these little bumps on the rear A arms. Could grind them off, think its for a grubnut but cant see any there and they give a spare set 😄
  25. The "Comet" build begins
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