Redback

Crikey a ute! Shame its on the sport3 with its dire steering. Body looks bannger tho, Woot!

cant go wrong with a hobbywing, did ask but was you able to use 2 pole in this bracket or is it limited to to a turn count?

those absima racers arent good irrc, i recall they are like glass if you want a nice little car a ftx tracer would be good and fairly robust and fast.

plz take a photo of the transmission with the top off. things to check, - the alloy motor mount goes 2 ways, ensure its sitting and meshing right. - the bearings can melt around the spur gear, this means a new upper and lower housing, fairly cheap. - the spur gear has a small pin that locks in in place, this needs a shim on the bearing side to keep it tight, alt glue the pin in. - there is no slipper clutch on the outlaw transmission, check the grub screws on the transmission outputs, they may have backed out a bit. - check the diff inputs also have the gub screws tight, outlaw is fixed 4x4 diveline with only open diffs. - best mod ive found is lock the back diff, makes a big diffrence. - I ran the same esc and motor, it didnt work well in the outlaw as its just not got the grunt to get it moving, if the car is juddering this is called cogging, nothing is slipping.... its when the motor doesnt have the low rpm torque to complete a motor turn. - as for fixes for this i replaced the entire transmission as its just didnt work for my young lad motors kept melting...

Yes, you used the pack for a year, batteries are consumables, you wouldnt take a nitro engine back to a shop because the engine parts wear out. Batteries wear out also and i think considering its been raced and that takes higher tolls on batteries, this response is well within their legal rights. I have returned a few overlander batteries but only due to them arriving below safe storage charge (lipo) in this instance the purchaser has right to return as the product arrived damaged, wear and tear even after 3 months they can reject the return and would as its been used.

Took the boat out, almost didnt come back, the little nuckle on the end of the prop shaft is set with epoxy, that is brittle and fails. Tried to make a coupler out of brass, but ended up just using the end of an old servo horn, cut into the shape of the motor coupler. Overall first time working on a boat, not easy but not too difficult it couldnt be fixed 🙂 Rewater proofed with grease, rather than using silicon. Water tight... FTX Vortex if any one else had similar issues.

Tonka has a perfectly balanced diet of brass. Lad parked it like this, it's not rolling over. No idea how...

Thats epic mate, love seeing the gmade gearbox there. Hows it holding up? Not sure if could run the servo like that as we run larger 2.2 tires. As for the lads outlaw, the counter gear set finally gave up, but only due to a bearing dying, the gears never wore out. These bearings are tiny and i dont think they were ever replaced. Either way, very satisfied with the endurance of the gears on a 4600kv motor over 2 years of harduse and at least 100miles+ of trailing, mudding, swimming and crawling is really outstanding. Popped the spare gmadegearbox in and back into the mud and rivers 😄 A slipper clutch would probably be best for this size of truck, the Axial Yeti is the same size and has a slipper. I have printed parts for the other trucks, i havent printed any for the outlaw, my parts wouldnt hold up to the punishment.

Bonfire nights soon. Not that burning them is good for the marshmallows, sure adds flavor.

Yeah, bit useless, can't even sell em on. Most are unused outlaw tires. Guess could use them to make a crawling course haha

Cant believe the amount of tires ive collected over the years.

Sounds like a local RC group, theres a couple that frequent BDH. Urban Monkeys / MMRC / FMSC, all friendly never hesitate to join in and say hello, we love talking about toy trucks 😄 https://www.facebook.com/groups/777000125675742

Also added weight to the gatekeeper, in the stinking hot sun at SST none the less, hefty treal steering hubs and with the treal c hubs i already had way more steering angle. I would have expect better fitment had to file some of the hubs away as tolerences were too tight. Overall improvment drastic, its way more capable with the extra steering angle, the extra weight is just a bonus. I am now starting to really enjoy the gatekeeper, the rear shocks need an upgrade as its always pulling the c clip off the top of the shock shaft. And SST was pretty good again this year, each track had been setup by different groups and each was enjoyable, worth the trip every time.

Heya mate, so you can get anti sway bars for the yeti from ebay that fit, the arms are decent but the bars are cheese and bend and snap right away. I think i mention it in the outlaw crawler thread, i havent been there for a while. Use the stock bar with upgraded arms. You can stiffen up the spring on one side of the rear if you like to send your outlaw, double up on the rear shocks with softer oil or use thicker shock fluid in the rear. To help with roll overs you can use stiffer 1/8th buggy springs and 2 stage foams and better tires (with beadlocks if possible) in the front to help the side wall rolling causing it to roll also.

The caddy for a external gpu is more than your budget, then you need another 400£ for the gpu card itself. Your laptops also dont have the supporting thunderbolt socket. https://psref.lenovo.com/syspool/Sys/PDF/ThinkPad/ThinkPad_X260/ThinkPad_X260_Spec.PDF I custom built a laptop for 3d art and game development, 4 years ago, dedicated gpu, 16gb of ram. i7 cpu. Cost 1000£ worth the investment considering its still high end to this day.

You can only go to 16gb on a single ddr 4 dimm Usally a dedicated GPU will improve video editor performance vs the inbuilt intel hd graphics that share the os resources. You cant upgrade the GPU nore can you desolder the i5 chip. I use shotcut a free open source video editor since win 10 lost movie maker. Like buying budget crawlers vs the element, You wont see a good performance increase unless you increase your budget. Dedicated GPU and i7 with 16gig of DDR 4 is atleast 800£

My speedrun DR10 is up for sale only due to lack of use, its had 2 speed runs managed 65mph and 70mph+, has way more in it depending on the esc / motor you choose (no elec / rx included). Body is battered as would be expected from speed runs, still usable and well held together with fiber tape, great body to keep for bashing. Tires are all good and still glued strongly, Included are body standoffs, an expertly made front bumper protector and a high performance 😁 splitter (uses servo screw holes) to help keep it planted. Easly removed if not required. No breakages, some scuffs as expected see pics, the chassis is in excellent but used condition, no binds no rust. Comes with 2 spur gears for normal and high speed running, Gear cover, wheeliebar and spares along with full manual and AE10 sticker sheet, Included. I'm asking for 110£ posted due to size or 95£ collection from warwickshire. RRP for roller and proline body would be about 180-200£ Any questions please ask, however i wont negotiate on price its already a bargain. Have a great day.

Glad your enjoying your FTX Keeper, You know i love saying told ya so 😄 Good rig eh, only gets better, have you overdriven the front yet, actually makes very subtle but decent difference. along with lower cg where you can, brass it up.

oh the SE Its the cheap n nasty version, no bearings, no overdrive, plastic shocks, plastic eveything, personally would avoid. Even the ftx has bearings. Personally i wouldnt pick either then. Save up some more or go for another brand or the non SE version of the enduro, that is a spectacular trailtruck and excellent crawler. If your wanting a trail truck, they both will do ok, as for crawling (rockcrawling, neither are a good choice imo)

Yes, the 3rd leg on the mount is odd, its not a hyper mount from the looks of it, so you may have issues with fitment. Aslong as you have the standoffs and the diff holder is the right way around it should be flat, so that could mean the motor mounts to tall.

Yeah, i think the ftx uses a smaller motor, either way the Element (not the SE version) is the better rig by far, overdive trans, good shocks and just overall better.

There should be stand offs for the other part of the spur gear diff bearing holder thats why its sitting low, where are these, or the holder is upside down, dont do any cutting yet m8

Anyone seen the 700£ injora on MS 🤪

Rossa results with the Banzia's Lads results are great all runs are his besides the one listed as mine. The car "Hurricane" wasnt smooth to drive and always ended up on its roof vs the other car "Typoon", the diffs are basically locked, i think this is whats sending it to its roof as it wasnt lifting and flipping, along with the body not being ideal. Thats for a later post, this Rossa was for the lad not me and he got a good amount of practice and runs in. New PB for him on " Hurricane" 52.6mph, PB with his car for me was 54mph. Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S 41.83 41.70 Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S 40.28 40.28 Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S 52.59 52.63 Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S 39.35 39.34 (Spin out) Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S - 44.69 Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S 28.24 28.12 (Sideways) Sat 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S 10.84 10.82 (Flipped) Sun 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 25.08 25.08 Car Flipped. Sun 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 30.28 30.28 Sun 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 41.11 41.07 Sun 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 39.35 39.40 (On Roof throug traps) Sun 9 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 54.37 54.41 Redbak Driving (Flipped) Fastest car upside down through the traps 😂 The other banzai "Typhoon" ran perfect, this time a castle sytem and half the kv motor of the 108 pass, same 4s battery and negative gearing. 34 pinion - 27 spur. Sat 10 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 63.84 63.66 Redbak Driving Sun 10 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 91.77 91.77 Redbak Driving Sun 10 FTX BANZAI ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 90.49 90.49 Lad Driving New PB for the lad 90mph, almost got his hat. Next time, its all about practice and preperation "Typoon" has 125mph in it for sure, and once sorted "Comet" has 100mph in it easy with all its upgrades. Was great to get the cars back out after so long, its a long wait for Rossa 2024. If only i could get to rd3 this year haha 🤔

Rossa results, with round 1 with the hpi, the 2 pole got very hot so swapped out for the hobbywing setup used in the banzai, then it started to cut out at 100% throttle (no failsafe, no steering) so didnt run it again. Same gearing all runs 1.1 32t - 32t Sat 11 HPI RS3 SPORT ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 75.42 75.42 (Castle + 2 pole) Sat 11 HPI RS3 SPORT ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 75.76 75.59 (Castle + 2 pole) Sat 11 HPI RS3 SPORT ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 80.83 80.50 New P.B (Hobbywing xr8 sct combo) Sat 11 HPI RS3 SPORT ELECTRIC 4 CELL 4S 66.84 66.75 (Hobbywing cuttout) Sat 11 HPI RS3 SPORT ELECTRIC 2 CELL 2S - 39.47 Only 1 Trap Working (Hobbywing cuttout) Overall ok results, steering deadzone is massive, needs lots of work but good base to improve.