No brains

For the first time in months the weather was nice so I took the ruster 4x4 to the beach, with the second battery the car starting to make a weird noise and when it was almost empty I lost drive. So I took the car apart when I came home and found out that the spur gear was stripped and the pinion looks like a sawblade, I know for sure that the slipper was set correct and not to tight, it never did wheelies and when taking off I always hear the slipper clutch slip before the car started to drive. I don't know what went wrong, I think it was a bad quality pinion gear, the gear mesh was set right also, this is the first spur gear I stripped being 6 years in this hobby. So now it is time to upgrade, I am going to order the alloy center diff with a metal spur gear and put a good quality pinion on it

Put new bearings in the chubs of my tamiya wt-01, on bearing lost his balls and the rest where not so smooth anymore. Also put in a new hobbywing max 10 esc, to replace the piece of junk trackstar esc that broke the last time I drove the truck, I has not many runs on it before it failed and I had to use a lipo alarm because the lipo cuttof was to low and a lot of times the reverse would not work, from now on I am not going to buy cheap esc's anymore, but only hobbywing esc's never had a problem with them.

bench tested the G.T. power sound and light unit for my MAN truck. I thought it would be a pain to get it working, but it was easy I got every thing working with my 4 channel radiolink wheel radio. Drag files here to attach, or choose files... Max total size 4.88MB Insert other media

G.T. power sound and light module for my MAN Truck, bought it from asiatees and only toke one week to arrive shipped at 16-01 so that was fast and it only cost me 0.70 euro cent for the shipping.

What upgrades did you order, I spend a lot on upgrades on mine, but thats because I bought mine second hand and I was a peace of junk and I had to replace most of th e parts anyway, mine upgrades are alloy motor mount, alloy shock caps, xo-01 driveshafts, xo-01 rear alloy hub carrier, xo-01 alloy front knuckles and chubs, hobbywing max 10sct esc, and castle motor and the wheels and tires, rpm wheely bar mount and ohter wheely bar the stock one was flimsy.

https://www.modellbau-metz.com/rc-modellbau/traxxas-l_r-gewindestange-camber-73mm-hi-alurohr-gruen

I am running a castle 1410 3800kv motor in it

The wheels are louise st rock stadium truck tires, they are almost the same size as the stock ones and they aren not ballooning much on 3s I like them and they are cheap to.

You can remove the black insert from te motormount and set the gearmesh yourself, I have the black insert in mine to I put it in myself and I have another one with differant holes in it, with the inserts you do not have to set the gearmesh yourself it makes it a little more easy. here are some pictures of mine rustler

The chassis for my MAN truck I build the past week, and today I build the 3 speed gearbox. Still a lot of work to do, I almost get to the point that I have to paint parts, but the weather here is almost every day rain, wind and cold, so then I have to wait for better weather.

Nice car you have there, I almost bought one last monday, then I saw the tamiya MAN truck for sale bought that one instead because I wanted a longer build project but maybe over a few months when I have some cash I buy one if they are still for sale here in the Netherlands for 250 euro.

Did a little bit of building on my Tamiya MAN truck.

80 turns brushed motor for my man truck, a max 10 esc to replace the broken turnigy esc In my tamiya wt-01 truck and a servo for my tamiya m-05

This MAN truck, bought it from Tamico ordered it monday and it is already here that was fast shipping. I can't wait to start on this build I am excited, ordered the G.T. power pro light and sound from asiatees for 100 euro inclusief shipping cost. This wil keep me busy for a few months.

I just bougth my first rc truck, I was looking for something to build that takes a little more time then a few days, so decided to buy a truck so I can build something in the borring covid lockdown. I bought MAN truck from tamico, It was a nice deal, and it comes with a pre painted body, normaly I want to paint the body myself, but I wanted a nice finished body and not having the chance to destroy the paint job. so now going to search a light and sound unit, I think I am going to order the G.T power pro unit that cost 100 euro, i know it has some flaws, but the tamiya units are to expensive for me.

I have the xo-1 driveshafts to on my rustler, but you also need the knuckles and hub carriers to make it work because the stub axle on the xo-1 driveshafts are 6mm instead of 5mm and use larger bearing, and if you want to change the flex wheely bar, I used rpm wheely bar mounts and the wheely bar from the 2wd models no more flex, take a look at mine rustler on this page 972 you can find mine rustler there

Finished the rebuild of my traxxas rustler 4x4 put way to much money in it , the car was a piece of junk when I bought it second hand. Gave the car a proper bash today on the beach, and ran 2 3s packs through it with no problems, I really like the car so in the end it was not all bad that I spend to much money on it.

yesterday, cvd's alloy knuckles and carbon shock towers for my tamiya m-05, rpm wheely bar mount , wheely bar and springs to replace on my rustler 4x4, bearings, and a new ssd bulkhead for my losi rock rey, used to much treadlock on my other ssd bulk head snapped a bolt off and can't get it out of it so I bought a new one.

started to rebuild the shocks for the rustler.

a Big box of parts for my rustler 4x4, I almost got all the parts I need I have to wait for 2 driveshafts and bearings and stainless steel srew set to arrive.

The worst thing about it I bought it from a hobbyshop, they say it need some work, but this it not some work this is a complete rebuild.

a 2 hand ruster 4x4 vxl, I bought it for 200 euro thought it could be a cheap project because I allready have a spare maxx sct esc and castle 1410 3800kv motor, sold the esc, transmitter and servo for 80 euro, so I tought 120 for a roller is not bad. But the car was in a horreble state all bolts are rusted out so are the bearings and rod ends, killed a ring gear trying to get a bearing of it that was rusted on to it , driveshafts are gone, diff cups with no seals or washer in it and a lot of broken parts and things missing. So far it is not going to be cheap, ondered all the spare parts and was going a little nuts on upgrade parts so in the end I spend 400 euro on parts and upgrades😬. lesson learned, not going to buy a second hand car again without seeing it in person, it is not the firts time I burned my hands on a second hand car.

I had the same problem with my typhon 3s blx, just getting 8 to 10 minutes drive time out of a 5200 mah lipo, it is the lvc that is the problem on the blx 100 esc, a lot of people have this problem with it.

mmm I was temted to buy one myself, but this is not good , I am happy that I don't bought it, I hope that corally send you the parts for free and give you some extra chassis alloy brace as a bonus. Is the chassis made of cheese never saw something like that happen only from a wheely, I have a cheap hobbyking Basher nitro circus mt 1/8 scale for years, beat the crap out of that car every time and it never breaks or bend still happy with that car, but when I see this or arrma cars that bend I ask myself what the .... are they doing these cars are not cheap.

The corally dementor is on sale for 429 euro maybe a new one is better. https://www.modellbau-metz.com/rc-modellbau/team-corally---dementor-xp-6s---1_8-monster-truck-swb---rtr https://www.modellbau-berlinski.de/rc-fahrzeuge-und-zubehoer/autos-und-zubehoer/elektro-offroad/dementor-xp-6s-brushless-4wd-monster-truck-1_8-24ghz-rtr