No brains

I did that to with a open flame, but the bullet connectors I use you put together when you soldered the bullet on the wire, if you want to solder a xt-90 of something like that it is not possible with a open flame because you melt the connector.

for thick wires an open flame is real fast to solder in a few seconds you have soldered a thick wire without heating the whole wire up and solder bullet connector with an open flame is real easy, for my it was a pain to do it with an solder iron and I was getting frustated with soldering, now it is an easy job. for smaller wires and connectors a solder iron is good enough.

I don't know of it has something to do with horizon taking over, for what I have read on forums is most people that have problems with the esc are from the newest batch with the extra caps soldered on the battery wire, and they changed the radio from tactic to spectrum, a lot of people blow out motor bearings, the motor mount and the mesh between spur and pinion gear that is to tight was allready there.

finished my konghead today, I convert it from a crawler back to a bashing truck with the stock tires and 3800kv castle motor and with high speed gears. I did some soldering today, solder 6mm bullet connectors to my 3s batteries and to my new hobbywing esc and made some adapter for charging the batteries, most of my batteries are 2s with xt- 60 connectors. I am happy that I bought a dremel gas torch for solder thick wires and connectors , makes it a lot easier to do then with a solder iron.

I use a small safe to charge my lipo's in, the safe is made of thick steel, and I store my lipo's in a steel archive case, in lipo bags.

I use different 2 and 3s zippies and they are fine some I have for years now.

I know every rc car has it flaws and need some kind of upgrades, but I never had any rc car and I had about 25 cars and from different brands, that I broke something so easy, the arms broke from a 10km per hour rollover, a lot of people have a problems with the esc, I have read a lot on forums. then the gearmesh between spur and pinion is to tight so you have to buy an adjustable motormount or drill the original one, the shocks leak, the servo is to slow and weak, the radio is crap, I think there are better cars for the money, and that the arrma 3s line is a little bit over rated in terms of tough and value. And I am not a fanboy of any brand, I only give you my experience with it, not bashing the arrma brand because I have never had an other model from them then the 3s blx typhon ,so maybe the 6s models are a lot better.

Parst for the proline are easy to get on ebay and they sell parts at a lot of webshops

The proline mt 4x4 is more to the 1/10 and if you do not do big jumps, I choose that over the arrma cars, I know that the arrma comes with esc and servo and motor, but the blx 100 esc is junk I had problems with the lvc hitting to soon and the servo is junk to, the motor mount you need to buy the adjustable or drill the holes out, the shocks leak, and I broke a front and rear arm in only in a low speed roll over, never break a arm on my rc cars before, I ran my tamiya truck at 50 km per hour in to a wooden pole and the only thing that happend was the tire came of because it was not glued. So is the arrma though hell no, if you buy it you have to buy a new esc, motor mount, servo, rpm arms, hot racing shock bodies and not forget the crappy spectrum radio. I regret buying the arrma, and I was choosing between the arrma and the proline.

The normal 1/10 scale like tamiya cars are not that big as a kraton, the arrma 3s line is more to the 1/8 scale, I owned a arrma 3s blx typhon 4x4 that is just as big as a 1/8 scale buggy, I was not impressed with the arrma so I sold it, the same for the losi rock rey I have the kit version but it is more 1/8 scale then 1/10.

tamiya fusion hopper, made out of a grasshopper chassis, trf 201 gearbox and front arms, tamiya bigwig shocktowers and a tamiya fire dragon body

an hobbywing max 10 sct and a castle 1415 2400kv motor for my losi rock rey kit .

I hate that when it happened, I had my share of stripped screws when I used to much treadlock and then I have to drill all the screws out.

yesterday I started to convert my konghead that I build as a crawler trail truck, back to the stock monster truck car and going to use it as a basher car. I changed the gears to sqaure high speed gears and put in a castle 1410 3800kv motor. Today I put back the shocks and shock tower and the bumper and changed the springs to the stock ones, the only thing to do now is gleu the tires on the wheels and instal the esc and reciever

what was horrible as kit, I like to know wat is wrong with it.

shipping in europe is 9.99 euro and above 199 euro it is free shipping. they still sell the rock rey and parts are easy to get, I bought a hot racing third member and 3 exotec aloy diff cases and an ssd front bulkhead from rc mart.

no I got it from www. lindinger.at, I bought some cars from them, sometimes they have good deals on cars bought a tamiya bullhead for 170 euro from them to.

I had the same problem with the 100 blx esc hitting the lvc to soon, at first I tought it was my batteries zippy 3s 30c 5000, then I bought some new ones arrowmax 5200 mah 3s 55c constant and 110c burst . I had with the zippy battery a runtime of 8 minutes and with the arrowmax 10 minutes voltage were 3.8 at lvc , and with the zippy even with a full charged battery after a few 100 meters full throttle it goes in lvc mode. At first I bought a hobbywing max sct for it, but in the end I decided to sell the car and use the esc for my new losi rock rey kit. The reason to sell it was I run it 40 minutes, did not do grazy stuff with it and broke a front and rear arm, replaced it with rpm, even my tamiya cars toke way more abuse and never broke a arm on them, then the shocks starting to leak and I think the motor and esc are to small for this car so it is eating batteries like grazy because the motor pulling a lot amps to move the car, servo is also crappy, in the end I do not want to chance all those parst, I sold the car with 70 euro loss and spend the money on a castle 1415 2400 kv and a power hd servo for my rock rey kit and have some money left over. So this was my first arrma car, when I drives, It drives and jump great but there was to many wrong it, had to rebuild the car when I got it gear mesh pinion spur was way to tight so I drilled the holes to give it some room, and the gear mesh between the ring and pinion gear was to tight the gears click like grazy and even when i changed the shim from the crown gear side to the other side they where still not smooth. I am new to the forum nice forum you have got here

I think you have to be lucky they are discontuned for some time, I was lucky one has poped up lost month for 250 euro, I bought it with out thinking, I ordered a castle 1415 2400kv for it and a hobbywing max 10 sct esc and a power hd servo, I waiting for the parts to arrive then I can start building it. Good luck finding one.