Fat Freddy

Sorry to hijack your thread Mr Beeblebrox. @BigGinge how have you found the JX servo in your TRX4? Have you used it much? I need to replace an Amazon special that claims to be 35kg but definitely isn’t.

The HW 1080 does have variable voltage options 👍

I’m thinking about getting one of these in a couple of months. Will be interested to see how it goes together. 👍

This happened to me recently, but by the time I'd got my camera out and switched on, sadly the moment had passed.

Thanks @Stormbringer@Lone-wolf@BigGingefor your input. Space is at a premium in this one so I don’t think the light pipe would fit, although I’ll file that idea away for future use, Thanks. I looked at the light cluster and worked out that if I very carefully removed the divider and extended the cavity by .5mm top and bottom, then I could JUST fit a 3rd LED in there…just, but it would be very tight and ridiculously fiddly. I also realised that 0603 smd LEDs are exactly half the size of the 1206’s so I could fit two lights into one space….but how bloody fiddly would THAT be? So after much pondering I’ve decided to forego the rear indicators and stop trying to be clever. Toying with forgetting the front indicators too, and just putting auxiliary lights in there instead? After all, if this thing goes to plan, it’ll have an interior lit cab, backlit dash, light bar, and under body lights…. as well as the regular headlights, rear lights, brake lights, reversing lights and a slightly baffling strobe setting where they all flash in turn.🤷‍♂️ That’s probably enough lights for something small enough to park on my phone😂

The description on the Modelsport website is hilarious.... "you are the cowboy" 🤣

I can’t wait! 😜

Brilliant! Good luck. Can’t wait to see the footage 😁😁

I have a wiring conundrum I’m hoping you can help me with. Apologies if my description of the problem is a bit clunky, I don’t really know much about electronics or the correct terms to use. I’m wiring up the lights for a Jeep Wrangler and would like them to be as close to the 1:1 as I can get them. From what I can tell, the 1:1 version rear lights are clear at the bottom and red at the top. The clear lenses are reversing lights, and the red is rear light/brake light/indicator all rolled into one. I have a lighting control circuit board that has connections for rear lights/brake lights, rear indicators and reversing lights. Thats three separate circuits but in each rear light cluster there are only spaces for 2 LEDs each side. I shall use white LEDs in the bottom slots as the reversing lights leaving space for one LED each side. If I put a red LED in the remaining spaces and connect it to the rear light circuit, that will give me rear lights and brake lights, but no indicators. BUT, (and this is where I need your knowledge of electronics!) if I were to connect the red LED to both the rear light AND indicator circuits would that work? Or would having one LED in two different circuits stop any of it working properly? Hope my explanation makes sense?

Ignore the sensible advice, https://howesmodels.co.uk/product/heng-long-1-16th-german-tiger-i-radio-control-rc-tank-dual-sound-version/?gclid=CjwKCAiAioifBhAXEiwApzCztmu-9XTE2ySM_MQojFAHZWiR4sxSDZtCz1O2W3ytzvwxK3YGEy8kbxoCfF4QAvD_BwE FPV would be good but potentially expensive, maybe use cctv? Then post a vid on here of gull vs tank… please 🙏🤣

Exactly.👍

Light bar…. Up or Down? I’m thinking down.

When you zoom in it’s pretty shoddy work if I’m honest, but I’m really enjoying this one 😁

For todays therapy session ladies and gentlemen, we have a backlit dashboard (cough, don’t look TOO closely).

@Lone-wolf https://www.crazyleds.co.uk/ultra-violet-0805-smd-led/ The guy said this was a colour he’s planning to discontinue but he has a few others to choose from. He seems quite helpful, willing to offer advice. Cheap as chips too! 😀

3, maybe 5 depending on how bright they are. 1 in the cab, and 2 underneath the car, (but maybe four if needed). That leaves me 5 spares for when I mess them up 🤣

I have a build thread going in "Micro and Mini" section.

A strip of tiny 0805 SMD LEDs. Never tried to solder anything this small before, but if successful, these are going to provide purple under body lighting AND, unless I suddenly become sane again, will light up the dashboard in the cab of my 1/35 scale Jeep crawler. (For those of you unfamiliar with these, the black stuff is just packaging, each of those white dots is a separate LED)

Cut out a window for the driver to lean out of and made a very rudimentary interior, complete with map reading passenger. Will cut out passenger side window too, so you’ll be able to see straight through the cab 😁

I believe Carisma’s Ford F-150 and Subaru Brat versions were 313mm but not sure on availability of either. Think Carisma may have discontinued all Ford based products but not 100% sure tbh.

Thanks. I have a balance plug and a circuit diagram. Despite being fairly confident I know what I’m doing, I’ll be very pleased if my charger recognises it as a 2S battery when I plug it in. I’m putting it off until the rest of the electronics are closer to completion as I want to keep all the wiring as short as possible to save space.

Now I’m going with the saddlebag battery, the battery tray is empty. As you can see there’s not a great deal of space, but I’m hoping to fit most of the electronics in there. The RX/ESC takes up most of the space so I decided to de-case it and make a bit of room….

I have the element with ifs and a coyote. If I’m honest, the element can get over stuff the Coyote can’t. Mostly due to the front overdrive I think?? It’s definitely a really capable truck. BUT The element has been less than reliable, breaking down on the trail several times in the 12 months I’ve had it, and parts aren’t particularly cheap. Whereas the coyote has been used ( and abused) regularly for nearly 3 years and has been super reliable. I think parts are cheaper too, but I haven’t needed to buy any so don’t take my word for it. Note: Although it’s true I haven’t NEEDED to buy any parts for it, I’ve bought plenty of upgrades 😁

The supplier emailed me, apologising for not having replaced the faulty shock shaft that came with the kit and said he would send me an alternative. These arrived today. Metal bodied adjustable shocks. They are close to the same length but offer an additional 2mm of travel. That might sound laughable but when you consider that’s almost an extra 30%, it’s massive. (4.5mm travel vs 6.5mm travel). They are much smoother too, and just generally seem better quality. Still no damping though. Thanks very much https://www.dronejunkie.co.uk/orlandoo-hunter-motors . Great customer service 👏 How cool does that look? 😁

Yesterday actually, but the postie arrived with a nice surprise. A set of 1/35th scale metal bodied, adjustable shocks. Adjustable preload that is, these things have no damping.