Hell horn.

An update on the Viking cove RC parts. Chassis is not changed other then an upgraded skid. Now it comes with m3 inserts fitted for extra strength. New body nuts. Smaller and fitted with m3 inserts. I have designed a gearbox. It uses rc4wd bully gears. Compact and light. This one is designed for flat Axles. I'm getting the last bits made for my test unit this week. And as long as that goes well. I will be selling a kit for the gearbox.

Not yet unfortunately. Totally dead. So a full system needs to be replaced. Brilliant

Sorry to mess you about. My boiler decided to become a water fountain a few days ago. So no spare cash for RC fun at the moment. Sorry dude

Don't be sorry. It's fine dude. 30 sounds good. I will get back to you on Friday when I get paid. Cheers dude.

How cheap would you go on the digger dude. Might be tempted for my son.

Is this still for sale dude. I will have it if it is. Cheers

I agree with aj. Do not get the 3 piece ones. They are totally junk. Seen a few sets people have had. And you get lots of slop and play as soon as you run them. Not worth the money. Order the solid ones and reuse your axle bits.

I forgot you can just stick a motor in. Not a cheap upgrade then.

Go big. Why not if your replacing it anyway. Might as well upgrade it.

Sounds like you shifted the shaft. You can try and tap it back into place. But it might or might not work after. But it's worth a try.

I ran 2mill front. Now Locked it fully. Even with the 2mill it wasn't brilliant. Stock diff gears had so much play in them.

Did some more work to my scale build. Engine is in. Next job is wells. Firewall. Lights. And sort out a space for the battery. This build is all about looks not ability's. It's only for family walks generally Lots of painting to do after. Tidy the body up. And finish off the interior

I'd lock all the diffs. Or if you want open front. Get the upgraded diff cup and gears. The stock ones won't last when you start giving it some beans. I ran 2 million diff oil in the front on my build. That wasn't to bad. Some run the traxxes 20 million diff oil. Then it's just about Locked. But stil work if needed. My car makes a bit if noise from gearbox but everything is running fine and has been since I go it. So I don't think there is anything to worry about. Metal gears tend to make more noise as they move about

I have upgraded my trailing arms for metal ones but I am using stock ryft rod ends on them. As the ryft uses large then normal balls in the rod ends. I got a couple bags of spare rod ends. If it's the rod itself you snapped and not a rod end. I'd suggest getting hold of center of gravity racing and get him to make you some new links. Then just use some spacers to make them fit the ryft. Like this.

Servo saver. Treal make one. This one I'm using I'd from eBay so cheap. Not sure yet how good it will be. But it's worth a try. One designed for the losi lmt should fit too. As for servo. Put as much money into that as you can. It will kill cheap ones. I'm trying out one from AliExpress. A 46kg one. It's meant to be a good servo so going to give it a go and see.

Savox fitted until the one I ordered for this arrives. Servo saver fitted but had to trim it down. It was catching the link. Once the new servo arrives I will add a bec to get the full 7.4v to the servo. Then I think she is done other then sorting a skin for it.

Stock servo and servo saver are pants. Only 15kg torque in the servo and a week saver. Upgrade them as soon as you can. And the stock bent rod ends snap easy. Replace with the straight ones. Buy a back or 2. You will need them.

Just going to swap a savox in to see how it runs with it. If it's no good. I will order a treal one to try.

New servo saver to try once my new servo arrives. £9 off eBay. Worth a try. Nice strong spring and can adjust how tight it is.

Trailing arms arrived today. Way ahead of the date the post shows. So that's nice. Might put the rear ones on the front at some point.

****ing phone. Slw Hub's. Not bloody slow. Get the SSD ryft hubs. They work with any wheel using the SLW replaceable hub. Almost any wheel using a 6 bolt removable hex is using this design

I have the same and they do fit but very tight. The telemetry won't work without using the silly priced spektrum lipos. As for wheels. Go for ones 35mm wide and running slow hubs. Then get the SSD ryft hubs from rcbitz. Sorted.

I run 5000mah 3s 50c lipos and they just fit in with a push. I cut the wire about 2 inches from the plug and used a bit if heat shrink to hold it to the negative wire.

Wait until you get a 3s or 4s in it. It's a monster.

It's a shame SSD don't do a wider ryft Hub. Wouldn't mind it being slightly wider.