jenoggle

so everyone knows the dimensions are- length - 40 mm width - 28 mm depth - 15 mm i would weigh it but i havnt got any decent scales

Here we have a high quality digital spped controller with no motor turn limit, it is a forward brake controller with very smooth action and is extremely easy to set up Only selling due to my dad upgrading, this is a great reliable speedo and comes in original packaging with all instructions etc my dad paid £50 odd for it new so grab yourself a bargain at £25 posted!! Any questions or if your interested pm me

I have a no limit esc to spare that would do the job nicely Its a speedmaster x300 forward brake digital speed controller Its my dads old esc and no need for it as hes upgraded, but it is very smooth and extremely easy to set up. he paid £50 odd for it new and wants only £25 posted!!! Il post it in for sale section with pictures if your interested

SOLD

For any bits you want and advice give top models a call it the shop that runs a mardave racing club by me and he stocks nearly all parts for them and if not in he will definately find one Heres their website so giv dave a call

cheers i never noticed

In excellent working condition and well looked after comm has been skimmed and has new endurance brushes used only around 5 times (good for 50 acording to supplier) looking for £22 posted in plastic protective motor tube (£34 rrp with no tube) pm me if interested

Have you looked at the xray t2r which is said to be the fully fledges 007 misus the carbon fibre chassis and has twin diffs. The car is supposed to be spot on for people starting out in racing as it is easier to get goin by having two diffs and you get the quality of xray. With a price tag ranging from high £120's to £160 this car will be cheaper and have higher build quality than the others at the price range leaving more money for better motor esc etc only problem they seem to be hard to get hold of but could be worth waiting for heres a link for more detail - xray

they will be alot better for adjusting your hyper for racing as you can do the angles without removing the link or watever but if it just used for bashing theres no point really

is this it? looks amazing and quite cheap for touring cars these days microtech - tc5

your best finding someone with a proper tyre truer to get them perfectly straight, otherwise as me and my dad used to do glue some sandpaper to a board and run the car up to speed and gently rest the tyres on the sandpaper wearing them down. This is a very messy process and you need to try and get them as true as prssible and hopefully the same diameter.

C.M.L. are saying it will be late June - early July before we get them and they still don't have a price for it.

i had a protrak that had that problem and it was around £40 to send away to get fixed but is probably better than some radom thing off ebay

heres sum pics of my new losi jrxs type r

18 and 20 tooth now sold! i am after 1.50 ea or 2 for titanium pinions then 50p postage

i hav various spurs and pinions for sale they are spurs - 82 (new an unused), 88 and 90 pinions - 18, 19, 20, 23, 24 (titanium) and 25 pm me if interested

every time i look at it i think its been done before it reminds me of my yoke bd with some different top deck and extras

i got bought a hara twister 2.1 a while ago now and the new one has come out. i was wondering whether anyone knows if you can send it to be upgraded to the new 2.2 spec as will mostly be the programming probably which is the difference. do you know someone whos done it or know how to?

I used to race these and the limited setup made for fun closer racing! they are a perfect car to start racing with as spares cost pennies.

i no sum1 with a mission for sale if u want?

heres sum pics of my hong nor 2007 special edition which hasnt been raced in anger yet sorry sum aint that gud quality

there is a .28 go engine that has a pull start which is only £99 according to smd but i dont no about this engine as i got the 7 port .21 clicky

i have this engine for my hong nor buggy it is an excellent engine and you wont find one better for the money! they are extremely tight when you first get it and seem to hold a tune well highly recommended!

front 7k middle 5k back 1k proven combination!

First thing to do is to wash the shell in warm soapy water to get rid of any dirt, then dry it trying not to leave any dust or dirt behind. Mask of the areas that are going to be the lightest colour first, so it is ready to paint the darkest colour. i always get some lighter fluid or motor spray at this point to get rid of and glue from masking tape and fingerprints left whilst masking off. Next you need to get the paint ready, only use paint made for poly carbonate bodies. i like to use the tamiya spray cans as they fit nicely in the hand not being too big and they have a large range of colours. Before i start spraying i run some hot water in the sink or something and put the spray can in to warm up the paint, this supposably makes it flow better. Now you are ready to spray, so in a well ventilated space spray a very thin layer of paint down first so it just looks like dust and let it dry totally. then slowly add thin layers until you think it is the right depth of colour. it is important not to rush as thick layers will cause it to flake off. Once this colour is done you can peel off the masking and repeat the steps to paint the lighter colour/s over the top. After the paint job is complete i leave the shell to dry completely for a day before cutting it out making sure all the edges are smoothed out using sand paper otherwise this can cause the paint to chip off around them areas. hope this helps rich