jeff66

update I sealed the carb and pinch screw where it was leaking air and also the back plate. replaced the clutch shoe and bearings set the servo to neutral and put everything on the neutral position on the controller. carb gap was set at 1mm opening in neutral as well as when the brakes was applied . all needles set to factory settings flush car still idles vey high and wants to take off on its own,even with the throttle trim turned right down. wheels still spin when lifted of the floor. had a temp gun and the temp was getting over 144 celsius and still risingsometimes 160 c I did turn the idle screw anticlockwise to see if it would cut the revving down but to me it worked but was still revving very high. any other ideas would be apreciated thanks again

hi thanks for the reply I wnet anticlock wise with idle screw until it cut out and then went clockwise about 1/8th of a turn was a bit better

update took the engine off and checked for leaks blocked the carb hole and exhaust hole up .put piece of pipe on the fuel inlet and then blew.heard a leak .put soapy water on and the leak was coming from the screw that holds the carb in place.could this be the problem with the high revving.if so do I need to put a little sealeant around the screw. thanks again

hi all sorry not been back and replied for a while had to dog sit for a week yes I am very new to the hobby factory settings was set flush as stated in booklet..i took the engine off and removed the clutch shoes these pulled apart very easily. ordered a new set and you could not pull these apart,so replaced the old ones with the new ones put everything back together. started the engine up as I turnd the throttle trim down there was a grinding sound as if it was coming from the clutch bell.everything was cleaned before putting back. I was told by hpi to turn the idle screw anti clockwise in 1/8th turns until the engine stalls and once this happens turn it clockwise 1/8th and that is the ideal setting.non of the likage has been touched.i have also watched the big block video by hpi on how to run the engine in at least 20 + times. I have tried to put a video link from youtube but it will not let me paste the link on here so if you type in on youtube trophy truggy 4.6 noise help you will see the vid plus another of the car. thanks again

hi all forgot to mention may be nothing but when I pick up the car I mentioned the front wheels moved but the rear ones do not thanks again. did not manage to get out to tune the car last night as family came around

hi thanks for the replys I replaced clutch bearings when I had to put this back together.used existing clutch. did the pullstart test wheels did not move with the electrics on or off .and the side to side test. will try to alter the idle later on when I go and tune hsn first the spit test I used water drops to see how the temp was and they bubbled for around 4 to 7 secs. do you think I might have to replace the clutch thanks for your replys

hi all back again done tanks 1 to 4 in trophy manual .not tune yet will have to do that later on once one of the shops have shut for the day as they have a large enough car park. problems at the moment are throttle trim is turned right down and the car wants to still move on its own. if I pick the car up the front wheels go and the engine starts to rev very high. and when the car is on the idle sounds like a constant bumble bee sound(sorry the only way I can describe this) car settings are still at factory set.i know I can only touch the idle once I tune hsn is this correct.the cars only going to be used for general use not racing. thanks again

thanks for the replys did as you said no issues apart from the engine cutting out every so often did the spit test to see how hot the engine was and the water started to bubble.took aprox an hour and 15mins to do the 2 tanks on idle.other question is it common for the engine to rev up for a few seconds and then settle back down. very new at rc so thank you for all of your help much appreciated. just wanted to know is the engine start up guide wrong for not switching on electrics or is that another way to break in your engine.

thanks for the reply I read the breaking in of the engine in the nitro sections and it states to have your electrics switched off.was using the hpi big block vid and booklet. throttle trim if I put this at neutral it revs even more. linkage what I did there was put the throttle on full to see where this stopped and then tightend the grommet screw up. so I must have the electrics switched on to run the engine in is that correct. thanks again

just installed the new engine so some help needed please tried to do the break in procedure for the trophy truggy but when I came to start this it revved its nuts off I have 25% optifuel as stated in the book. r5 glow plug needles are set to factory settings opened the throttle 1/4 of the way as stated. looked at the carb and it was 1mm aprox no electrics on as stated in the start up guide. its a brand new engine only parts added to this was the pullstart and bearing and the clutch bell system for the front of the engine. any help appreciated. going to try and put a youtube vid on of what it sounds like later hopefully thank

hi all need some help please very new to rc nitros.my query is I followed the start up of breaking in an engine no receiver or transmitter switched on.tried to put the throttle 1/4 of the way as stated.came to start the car and it started revving very high so had to stop this incase it seized . I have the rtr trophy truggy 4.6 v2 engine using optifuel 25% as stated in the bookall the needles are at factory settings.not sure what to do.it is a brand new engine. any help appreciated thanks

thanks for the reply. I take your advice on the end caps as I do not think that it will be getting abused as much as some ive seen on the vids. like the look of your car

thanks for the reply.very new at this.and was still searching the forum and come across the ansmann shocks that some one suggested. are the stock shocks as good as any other make once the plastic end caps have been changed to alloy ones. we will not be doing any big jumps mainly on flat ground until my son gets use to the handling of the car thanks again

hi new to all this so is there any decent/good areas in warrington.as anyone used the main park in warrington. thanks

hi all been doing a lot of reading on your forum about big bore shocks for the hpi truggy.just to clarify if I was to change the stock ones.would these fit.also is there any other makes that would fit hobao 16mm not sure on the length (hyper st I think) and hong nor 20mm not sure on length vorza shocks also I would like to now if I was to change the stock end caps to alloys would this be as good as the above as I was reading that a lot of the plastic ones break. the car will be used mainly on flat areas,until we get use to the car. very new at the hobby and every little bit of info helps. thank you would ansmann 120mm by 20mm fit and are they any good and could I replace all 4 with these, thanks again

hi all update on the tophy that I bought. sent the engine back to hpi on Monday and the shop received a new one back today.the shops going to put the trophy back together and run it in and tune it up before it comes back.so hopefully I should have this back by the end of next week and will be able to take my son out next weekend weather permitting

wheres the park

hi all great news as you know just bought the trophy 2nd hand.been back to the model shop where the person originally purchased this from.tod them the what had happened.they said if I could get proof of purchase then they would honour the hpi warrenty. so managed to speak to the person and he said he would print off a bank statement for proof.the shop excepted this as they can go back on there records. so still got the rest of the warranty for car. thanks for all your help on this subject.i am sure I will be jumping in some of the topics and asking some questions. thanks again to all you

thanks again for the answer. as I said the bearing was put on with petruding side facing outwards would this have played in any part of breaking the piston. thanks again

hi paid

no never slided of was stuck on the shaft.found out the problem though.the person I bought it off had knackered the piston in as the arm had bent and broken.so will have to fork out more money for what I thought was a bargain.does any one know of any cheap spare parts shop.found the piston and lining on ebay for

hi all I have taken the pull start off .is the one way bearing the large nut that fits into the pullstart .if so how do I go about taking this off. I have tried without the glow plug still no luck.

the flywheel moves freely in to the left if you are looking at the car head on and to the right but only unit the pullstart cord tightens.gave it 5 mins with hairdryer but the pullstart still will not move.will not be able to reply for another hour as I have to go out thanks again

hi all managed to remove the pullstart and cord went back into place.put it back together and the pull start would not move.does this mean I have seized the engine thanks again also taken the glow plug out to see if the piston moved up and down it moved slightly if this helps thanks again

hi all joined your forum yesterday.just wanted to know what are the basic tools you need for hpi trophy.i have the starter pack.and the odd allen key and pliers .but what other items might I need list would help.very new to the hobby so thanks for the help once again thanks