tersch

NOW ON Ebay AUCTION AS OF TODAY 5/11/24 FOR SALE 'One of a kind', glass fibre body shell for the Losi 5ive T. I purchased this some time ago now specifically to fit my 5ive T. It is an unfinished project. It has a professionally sprayed base coat that is ready for a colour of your choice. If you like a 'scale' look then to match the car from the era, a front grille would look awesome. 3D printed would be the way to go here. I have made 2-off stainless steel support ribs that attach to the existing shock support plates, that protrude slightly out of the bodywork to be pinned secure. The wheel arches have been cut to suit the centres of the wheels with no fouling when in motion. I would suggest this shell is for the street/tarmac only, purely for head turning. With colour (candy apple red maybe?) or 'rat rusty' style, this shell would really stand out. Video below to show it in motion. Other projects have taken hold, so thought would sell now in its base coat state to appeal to more potential buyers who would want to put there own style on it. Or maybe you know someone who would want it hanging on their garage wall or in a pub etc ?? I can pretty much guarantee that you won't find anything like this anywhere! So a real opportunity to stand out from the crowd. Pick up only as its a beast of a shape to courier. Wouldn't trust the service anyway. Send me your contact details if interested. I'm looking at £200 ono. The wheels are not included in this sale. They can be sold separately or as a bundle price if required.

Thanks Dun. Yes, all your suggestions are on the hit list for sure. Do you know if there are instructions on proper strip of the bottom end? I don't think the manual goes into that depth.. And gasket part no's etc? The carb is clean as a whistle and new gaskets there.

Hey Jonny. Thanks for your reply. I'll inspect the piston tomorrow and post some further pics. Regarding the piston ring gap, I must admit when I assembled the ring I thought there was a bit of 'play' within the groove. It did compress ok and seemed a nice snug fit to the cylinder wall. I am correct in positioning the arrow on piston crown towards exhaust side? Regarding running, no downhill, just flat. And I took it easy on first run.

Yes, from piston down I'm going to flush out and check all crankcase internals. Just odd that both pistons had damage in the same place, indicating the same fault, not random. I.e. debris in the case..🤔 I hope crankcase is fairly straightforward to clean up.

Mmmm .... I guess the only potential cause for slight misalignment of piston can only be from conrod in the 'z' plane ..? As opposed to any lateral movement on the gudgeon pin for example. You know, sometimes you just cant 'see the wood for the trees'. Surely that can only be the next logical step toward a fix. I'll take off and replace. Thanks for the visual and appreciate your response.

After finally getting my 5T started after a while of sitting dormant in the garage (with a new piston ring). It dies after higher rev first run. Idle is fine but running at higher revs it conks out. On inspection the piston is scored deep, mainly to one side and one score at 90 degrees. This is second attempt now. First attempt, the original piston was kept and ring replaced. The result was the ring was shattered, which I thought was the cause of the deep markings on side of the piston. So, 2nd attempt replaced with new cylinder, piston and ring and same result !? Idles fine but with higher revs , conks out and same piston scoring damage? Thought also it may have been new head gasket that I used which could have made the cylinder sit higher thus piston working lower, but measuring it caompared to original gasket, the thickness was approx same 0.75mm. I have the piston arrow facing toward exhaust, which has the piston ring gap over the nipple of the piston on the opposite side. From the cylinder image, the scoring seems to be at the bottom of the air intake. Is the ring causing the scraping/damage here? Can anyone shed any light on what may be causing this? Is there something else I should be doing to seat the piston within the cylinder? Scratching my head a bit here ....?

Success! It was the piston ring. No choke, better plop noise on cranking and half a tin of carb cleaner! 😁 6 pulls and she fired. What a glorious noise. Thanks for your help. 👍

Yes. After having an arm like Schwarzenegger, the sound of the piston just seemed 'dry'. There's no wet plop sound that I remember on past starts. I.e. no fuel. I've read elsewhere that chocking isn't favorable... Personally I always have. Makes sense running the carb dry pre-storage. I'll be sure to do that next time. Fingers crossed there will be a next time.

O.k. great. Thanks both for your prompt replies. I'll check the ring tomorrow and order a new one. It's probably the only thing I haven't done ! I've almost built a new car as it is ! Yes I do have a spark. I have a 'killer' switch on it and that is working. Wasn't sure how strong the 'spark' should be but figured a spark is a spark. If the coil was knackered it wouldn't spark at all. I do a have a new can of carb cleaner specifically for this, so will take off and give it a good blast. Thanks again. I'll report back. Kind regards.

Hello TommyC. I'm having the same issues as you had regarding starting my 5T after a few years of non action. I have pretty much done everything I thought possible to get the thing going again but still nothing! Interested to know what you eventually did to get yours going? Was it a reduction on the spark plug gap? I believe 0.6 to 0.7 from the manual? You mentioned 0.4? And also the piston ring... Can you confirm the new ring did the trick? I have a CY 28-36. I have done the following: - fresh fuel, new head gasket, new fuel lines, new spark plug, new carb gaskets, (carb seems clean) new air filter (previous one had a rip in the foam), ignition coil contact to flywheel is clean with business card gap set. fuel flows fine. I have a spark from the plug and removing the plug and placing thumb on top of cylinder seems to give compression by feel. Although i'm no expert on how strong that compression should be (hence possible piston ring replacement?) Its not flooded as I've turned upside down and and cranked... It just does not fire at all. Frustrating. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you.

tersch - Losi 5ive T, Telford, Shropshire.

Thanks for this. Yes I did see the manual but thought I would ask as this manual doesn't cover the new 29cc version? But I think all innards are the same anyway, so will refer to this one. Hope that's correct?

Can anyone point me in the right direction for general maintenance procedures on the 5ive T? Something like HPI maintenance breakdown for the Baja, is there anything like this for the 5ive T? How to change diff oil, shock oil, grease spec for the dogbones, etc, etc? Thanks

Great, thanks.