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Looks OK on the box with the wheels off the ground, its just when you set it down to run it that it bogs down. I'm running Optifuel 20% atm

Guys, I hope someone can help with a tuning issue I'm having. My engine runs rich (lots of smoke, very sluggish take-off, can't clear the jumps) until I complete about half a lap then it seems OK, then if I tip I'm back to rich running for another half lap. However, if I lean the HSN or LSN even a little bit the the engine hits 300F. I'm hitting 260-270 the way it is right now. I tried blipping the throtlle while waiting for the marshal to keep the engine running faster, but that didn't make any difference. After sleeping on it last night I'm thinking maybe I'm too rich on the LSN and too lean on the HSN but before I change anything else I want to ask the opinion of the experts. Cheers BobD

Hi Rick, Did the measuring for you: Gap between top of screw collar at base of spring to bottom of plastic housing is 5.7mm Length on the steering linkage is 33mm - I measured the entire length of the link, not just the turnbuckle. I know when I was setting up the car that my trim is about +20 to the left on the TX. I could probably make that better but I was fed up by that stage. Its maybe something I'll fix before next race. Hope this helps BobD

I'll check that out for you tomorrow as it may cure my exact same problem with the same servo LOL Some Savox servos just buzz though, so I put up with it.

Setup sheets sent mate... enjoy

Stick the fluffy bit of velcro strips on the bottom of the shell (not the chassis) to stop it rubbing One thing about the tight fitting shell is that it keeps dirt out better.

All I can suggest is that you put a piece of tape/vinyl on the inside of the shell where it is rubbing or put a coating of shoe goo around the parts of the shell that is rubbing. I have the inside of my shell coated with Heat reflactive foil tape as heat from the pipe causes the paint to come off at that point

PM me your email address and I'll send them over to you

Servo horn is the plastic <===> shaped thing on top of your servo that your brake and throttle linkage are attached to.

Gap in carb too big. Do what rusty says. Have your RX and TX on when you start the car, that ensures the throttle goes back to the correct position rather than it sitting open where you left it Take the air filter off and look down the hole in the carb

Nowhere in the UK at the minute, they were never available as CML never stocked them. Maybe the new distributor will bring them in, but you'll have to wait a little bit longer to find out who that is. I contacted nearly every online RC merchant looking for a shell a few weeks ago and got the same answer from them all. Protect the shell by lining the inside of the shell with heat-reflective foil tape, Stick the fluffy bit of velcro strips on the bottom of the shell (not the chassis) to stop it rubbing. If you put them on the sideguards then they will gather dirt and scratch your shell Put a coating of shoe goo around the parts of the shell that is rubbing. From the above posts.... Cheers BobD

Lean High end and a rich low end.

Xerof, if you are still having the problem, make sure the clutchbell teeth and spur gear teeth are properly meshed. I had the "stalling problem after 3-5 mins" once and it was because the mesh was too tight - the spur gear would stick/hesitate just long enough to cause the engine to stall. It always fired up again straight away. I tried all sorts - changing plugs and tuning the LSN/HSN/idle to get the bugger to run before checking the mesh. Hope this helps BobD

Updated with bearings info

Does anyone know where I can get cheap bearings for a losi / agama ? The size I want is 1/2" x 3/4" x 5/32" I was wondering if the xray 13mm x 19mm x 4mm would be a close enough fit though. Has anyone tried the metric bearings in a losi? The only proper bearings I can find are about