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grck1

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Everything posted by grck1

  1. Hi again. Looks like you do have the inbuilt servo saver/ servo arm and the servo saver in the steering post - the big spring bit. If you replace the round servo arm with a straight soild arm, you will find you steering a lot better. Also make sure that the adjuster on the spring on the steering post is done up. Sometimes they are left too slack and seize in place giving the impression they are tight. Might need a pair of pliers to get it to move.
  2. Hi if its a 25 does it have the large round servo saver that mounts straight off the servo and is effectively the servo arm? As opposed to the later ones which have a servo saver in steering assembley and a normal servo arm? If it the round 25 style then these are crap. If you have changed the upgraded steering assembly with saver, then switch to a normal non saver servo arm. Will make a world of difference
  3. Think 20t best for 2x2s. 25t for2x3s (6s)
  4. Kit comes with 20t and 25t pinions Youll need x type shock towers and bumper arms with retaining clips. Easy to get of a parts breaker on ebay. (I presume the 3.5 has the same diffs as a 25 etc) Off top of head cant think of anything else.
  5. I put a 150a xerun esc with 2000kv motor. And two 2s 5000mah turnigy lipos. Think they 40c ones. Only running 4s but is plenty fast enough for my driving lol.
  6. You'll need a few extra bits and bobs if your converting a 3.5, a savage x makes a better base but its nothing major really. With the conversion kit the only differences from the genuine hp will be the esc and motor combo and the wheels and tyres you running - 14mm or 17mm hexs. I got one and converted my savage 25.cost was just a tad ovr 300 to complete with lipos (careful buying and selling) And I love it
  7. Bashed it until a wheel came off again. Lol bloody wheel nuts came loose. Then realized hadnt got a wrench with me to tighten them up again oops. Bash over
  8. Yep defo the body first followed by a lower arm I say. Least thats how mine went lol
  9. What do you do with the throttle when jumping as this can affect its attitude whilst in flight. If you come of the throttle when you jump this will cause it to nose dive. Whereas nailing the throttle will cause it to nose up. I would check the top gear in the centre gearbox as they sometimes strip, there is a hd version of it available
  10. Fbi deals with America and internal surveillance. Cia deals with foreign surveillance etc
  11. Sometimes it's the battery, I had some from maplin which were branded maplin and wouldn't work in my tx. Turned out they had a thicker plastic coating which stopped them making good contact. I trimmed it of the end and found that they were actually made by a Aussie company and hade been rewrapped by maplin, so they had double thickness of plastic coating
  12. grck1

    customs

    Biggest delay these days is customs. My parcel from the USA took 1.5 days to travel half way across the usa and then to the uk. But took 14 days to get through customs. Once through it was speedy again with parcel force
  13. Do you defo want the alloy bodies? As you can pick the plastic big bores up from
  14. You'll need fill them with oil, it says oil needed in the description. They seem to come with everything else to fit and are pre built.
  15. Anybody got a 2spd savage gearbox they don't want any more?
  16. I put hobbyking 150a esc and 2000kv motor in mine, can run it 4 or 6 cell lipo, it's plenty fast enough on 4s for me , will pull wheelies on command, even at speed and does the coolest standing backflips as well. Really good combo
  17. Damn you beat me to it, have been thinking about doing this for a while, looks cool.
  18. Rc sparks / dj medic2008 on youtube did a painting tutorial thingy on a trailfinder 2 hilux body, did rust holes, patchy paint and scraps and dents aswell, was good to watch with a lot of useful tips worth having a look http://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL62E007B02BCD0E4D#/watch?feature=plpp&v=R2eT5YbaHFY http://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL62E007B02BCD0E4D#/watch?feature=plpp&v=oHx0f5GN0hw http://m.youtube.com/playlist?list=PL62E007B02BCD0E4D#/watch?feature=plpp&v=t_Z1a81bTL4
  19. hi washers are fine to remove free play, you can get various thickness shims as well to reduce the free play, cant help with the circlip size sorry
  20. probs the best way is the hpi conversion kit as you get everything you need, and yes its expensive but not as expensive as buying the hpi parts seperate. xerun 150a esc and 2000kv motor make a good combo, plus some 5000 mah turnigy batterys from hobby king and you can be up and running for less than
  21. They wheelie fine with stock clutch, it's more a issue with the slipper clutch being set too loose from the factory. The clutch issue they can have is the two shoe set with wrap around spring can suffer from breakages of the spring easily.. And they don't sell the spring on its own. But I've had mine for newly two years now and only suffered one spring failure in that time. I replaced mine with the spring from a trophy truggy I think and never had to do it again, only cost a few quid for two as well
  22. Ran it for a change yay . Had a escaping wheel and thought it was game over till my mate found the nut. How he found a black 1/8 wheel nut on a Tarmac carparks ill never know but he did. Good lad
  23. The kit will convert any savage, but a older 21 /25 tale one will require a few extra parts, namely x or flux shock towers, x or flux bumper arms and clips and the correct arm braces for the bulkheads, all available cheap on eBay. I converted my 21 with it and added a 2000kv xerun motor with 150a xerun esc and its great fun.
  24. Yeah was thinking esc might struggle, but there's on.y one way to be sure lol. Looks like I'm going shopping then
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