Gaz!

yeah, couple of year ago, i was into trucks big time!! but got bored with them, ill dig out some pics if i still have them... both were fully hopped up, inc. mfu`s, i had near on a £1000 each in these. my mate, mike (hence the no. plates) bought both off me. the purple one was sat on a shelf for more than a year

yep, used them before. look like the plastic boat uj`s?? personally id look for a pair of the tamiya ones (scorcher/rough rider etc) they are loads stronger and straight fit too. it is a far better idea than the kit ones though. is that a merc box truck you have there??

to be honest mate, i would say batteries are dying, i used to use nimhs when racing and was advised to replace them each year. although my batteries used to be hot when charged. sorry i cant be of more help, gaz.

savox do a micro servo, will fit but needs the savox horn fitting onto the traxxas steering arm.

wait till you stick a 4s in it mate, its a whole new ball game

not much help but i use a dx3s with sr300/3300 receivers and my eyes give up before it loses signal. is the aerial wire upright?? also away from motor wires and other electrics?? sorry i cant be of more help...

if you plan on buying over the counter, wait until you purchase the car, you will then get the right % fuel and you may get some discount if you buy it all together, nothing ventured, nothing gained........

maplins do some small sealable boxes of all shapes and sizes.

if you dont mind doing a bit of work on the wheels then there is these......http://www.modelsport.co.uk/tamiya-xb-vw-beetle/rc-car-products/39042 if they are too wide, cut out a strip from the centre of the wheels and same with the tyres to get the desired width. may sound like a fair bit of work but will be well worth it in the end. looked at those wheels in the plans and nothing obvious springs to mind but ill keep looking mate.

if modelsport is local-ish to you nip over to see them, i think i paid

well i have been a fan of f1 since i was 5 (near 35 now) and yes it has changed over the years, you have to doth your cap at the leaps in technology but the drivers of old had the talent, not the car........... my memories of watching repeats of jackie stewart and james hunt, proper british drivers!! although i am a ferrari fan through and through. anyhow back onto your project, if you could use 12mm hex fittings for your wheels, it opens up 1000`s of wheel tyre options. if you have a picture to post up of the car, ill do a search for the wheels for you, if not some companies will machine you some wheels from aluminium to your spec, not sure on price though.

mine still has the sdr one in too, looks worse for where but still works.....

oooh, im interested to see this take off!!! nitroholic has given you some sound advice already, but ill add my opinion too, if your set on 1/12th have a look at a tamiya mo4l chassis, long, thin and rwd, you will still have a lot of work but the long "tube" chassis is there and the bits that hang off it. or 1/10th would be a tamiya tl01 chassis, long, thin but 4wd (you can remove the propshaft and still run rwd) again same principal as the other chassis. this way wheels and tyres similar to what you want will be out there somewhere, still plenty to keep you busy and parts are peanuts for those cars. and at the end you will have a car thats usable and unique. really looking forward to this mate!! gaz.

i would say the small hoop mate for the bullbar with maybe a winch or 2 spotlamps in there. as for lights, the ones you have will be fine mate, pp9 battery will last ages with them, there not bulbs that drink juice, they will last the same as have 6x 5mm leds, mine have lasted near on a year with the same battery. ill do you a bumper if you fancy calling round one day mate, bout half hours job.

i would say, go for a hyper, dont know which model though. tools, a good set of allen keys, couple of different sized phillips and flat screwdrivers and a 17mm wheel wrench tool, there could be a few more bits too but there should be enough to get a car in bits and back together again.

hi, just got a few bits left over to sell now, all r/c stuff is under a tenner as per rules. http://shop.ebay.co.uk/thestig23107/m.html?_trksid=p4340.l2562 or will trade for r/c stuff. thanks for looking, gaz.

i have a local fete to go to, but if i can get out of that i may pop in for a couple of hours........

the battery does look very puffed in that pic, i have a turnigy nano-tech 4s (soft case) 5000 with 25-50c rating and it doesn`t get nothing like that, mines still cool when used too. see how you go with the new battery, but maybe worth while taking the rotor out the motor case and giving it a clean, inside the can and the rotor.

hi mate, i used to use the very same ones on my b4 when i raced it. are you racing yours or is it just for bashing?? reason i ask is that the yellows are very soft, i went through a pair of rears per month racing on carpet (30 mins per night, 4 nights per month) if you can find them go for blue compound, take a little more warming up when racing but last 3 months and for (at the time)

without spending a small fortune, it is mate, parts/upgrades a plenty. ill keep my eye out for you too mate.

star foams let the tyre deform better when crawling thus improving traction. im with you on the stock electrics with the axial, they are poor but cheap. also agree with you on bind and drive, just make it easier.......

it will be better but im not too sure how much, you may want to look at the gearing too, but im not brilliant with that if im honest. at least with a rv11 esc and that 12x2 motor it will be matched and work well, do the gearing if you can and use lipo?? that should all make a vast improvement overall. i used to race a b4 with a 14x4 motor, lrp esc and 2s lipo and it would match lap times with brushless b4s. if i can help anymore please feel free to ask mate

can you push the car along by hand?? if so take off the shell and have a look see to make sure everything is turning as it should. what c rating are your batteries?? i would have thought nothing less than 30c in my opinion mate. is the outdrives in the centre diff seated correctly or is there a foreign object lodged in there somewhere. would it be possible to get some pics up of the drivetrain, i can compare it to mine then for you to see if that helps.

hi mate, i usually stick half the weight in the rears compared to front in my scalers (same for crawlers too) sticks like poo to a blanket..... also, my mates son has the night crawler and he has fitted the ezrun rockcrawler combo in his and it makes a world of difference!! its the 32t version. also i believe the tyres of choice are hb rovers in white compound.