Jump to content

wolfie1

Gold Member
  • Posts

    1,839
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    31

Posts posted by wolfie1

  1. On 27/12/2024 at 11:09, Partydaz said:

    That's thing looks well beefy, seems like a buggy version of the Kagama from my experience things a tank.

     

    Few things watch out for the CVD pins like to snap or fall out I've done a few experiments and 5 packs in it's still ok 🤞, this is what I've done so far:

     

    I have noticed that when I set the end points one tyre starts to move before the other so I set end points after both start to move sounds weird but non of my other RCs do it so might be why the CVD pins snap as it's over stressing it on one side. Also I put heat shrink around the CVD collars to capture the retainer spring to stop the CVD pins falling out.

     

    Check the rear diff bearings after a few runs as my ones are starting to show wear must be because of all that 6s power! 😄, also rear diff likes to leak but stops after a while. Filled according to Corally fill levels but still leaked then stopped must of got to a fill level it liked I have checked rear diff and still loads in it, so if you see diff leakage on the right side of the rear diff it's probably ok. My 4s Corally did the same but I used a thicker o-ring that stopped that leaking.

     

    Centre diff leaks, after wiping down the diff casing and the gasket it's fine now both my 4s and 6s did this after that it was golden plus put 500k in centre diff 6s which probably helped with it not leaking.

     

    Yeah old school hobbywing cards work on them.

     

    That's what I have found with my Corally rcs, if you find any other tips for them post them up I am loving messing with these so easy to work on.

     

     

     

    Is it the blue or the red 1 that works?

  2. 2 hours ago, MrCake said:

    Not heard of ADU racing before but that looks like some nice parts and a fair bit cheaper than other 7075 stuff.

     

    Love my Kagama for what is my first large scale Truggy.  Got a DR8 first which I thought was a big RC until I got the Kagama!

     

    Not being an engineer, I have always wondered what stops some of these Ali type brands just slapping the word 7075 on stuff!?  I certainly had no ideas myself about different grade metals until the RC YT crowd started banging on about 7075.

    I have no idea either about the 7075, like you i just have to go on what it says

  3. 9 minutes ago, Partydaz said:

    Hard tell it's dirty with it being green kinda gives it a camo look!. 

     

    https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/422712 I used this x-large dusty motors cover on the Kagama if your after a cover at some point. Fits lovely if the wheelbase is the same should fit. One good reason I got it is because with the exposed centre diff rocks were getting stuck under it which I found out isn't good after it locked up after a jump.

    I bought 1 of them things for the maverick quantum flux, did an awesome job at keeping the insides clean but it did a really bad job at letting the heat out and i melted stuff, i am fearful to revisit 

  4. Got the motor refitted along with a heatsink and rocket fans. I should have mentioned before but also got some rear driveshaft guards fitted.

    02qy0RS.jpeg

    Also added some extended hubs, really liked the way these things fitted

    tZt8KS4.jpeg

    QgdkhFW.jpeg
    And all back together again, i also changed the receiver to a flysky, since there is no telemetry there was no point using the stock radio system, i thing that was a bit of a disappointment was the esc, it is a rebranded hobbywing but my v2 tuning card doesnt connect to it, i will need to try the v1 and see if that works but dont own 1 of them.

    so all in i am pleased with the end result and am looking forward to running it tomorrow 

    c9BsSqx.jpeg

    • Like 3
  5. I now have 1 of these and of course i couldnt leave it standard, so this is what i started with

    cjb4AKg.jpg
    fVBrDiB.jpg
    and this is what i have been up to today, i had been looking forward to this. Started with the front and it all went together very well, these ADU racing parts look good and are sold at being machined 7075 aluminium, i did use the gold screws that came with the parts, im still undecided on them but time will tell

    vIfUb5D.jpeg

    WwPWXqH.jpeg
    then moved onto the rear but realised the centre brace also had to be changed at this point too

    KQlmSZT.jpeg
    Then the centre diff unit and motor mount had to be changed before the new brace was installed

    4LEgZfX.jpeg

    yc3wMtV.jpeg
    IirJ0qa.jpeg

    • Like 3
  6. So finally got this out today, life has just been too busy this month, i have changed the pinion to a 25 tooth since getting back and hopefully will get out with it again tomorrow too see if the gearing will still be ok, found this ace spot but the grit stuff gets everywhere!

     

    • Like 2
  7. 9 hours ago, TommyC said:

    Printed the first on the left and it had a slight imperfection on the bottom right screw holes. Second print also did it and seemed to miss a small section (looks like a scratch near the centre hole)
     

    IMG_3290.thumb.jpeg.5e489277fe677f04c16e0f4d3de950be.jpeg

    They look perfect 🙂

  8. I have their hardened shafts in an xmaxx and are doing well, only issue i have had with them is they advertise them with a “replaceable pin” where it goes into the drive cup that is held in with a grub screw, these pins kept moving and sliding out and i even lost 1 but a spare set came in the kit, i got round this by grinding a bit out of each pin where the grub screw tightens against so they cannot slide past the grub screw and then wads of loctite

  9. I have absolutely no idea, battery trays are usually made from plastic and they hold up to plenty of abuse do they not? I am assuming the stuff you are on about is plastic?

×
×
  • Create New...