wolfie1
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Posts posted by wolfie1
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When i am saying maxx my apologies i am meaning the widemaxx
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I have recently come to own an arrma truck, they may seem like better value to buy to begin with but parts are way more expensive than traxxas maxx spares for example and the maxx takes more of a beating, as far as team corally i have no experience, hpi stuff well i was a big fan of them but parts are harder to get hold of so dont really do much with mine these days. I do have an xmaxx and it is awesome best rc i have ever owned but its size is a plus and a minus at the same time you can run it on so many surfaces but you need a large area to run
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On my maverick quantum flux it came with a deans connector (stock esc is a hobbywing) so coming from a reputable brand i would expect it not to be a fake and it melted after a few packs so dont use any now
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Yes see the layers there
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Just now, horatio said:
It's the real deal.
Edges sealed with black Sharpie and Cyano.
Fair enough just thought i would ask the question by the way it looked in the pic, you have it in your hand so can see it better than i can in a pic
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1 minute ago, horatio said:
Nah, it's not fake carbon fibre! 🤣 I had to select the layup and cut the stuff, so I know what it is.
It's 0-90-0-90-0-90. I didn't require 45° weaves - being already 40% thicker, much stronger/stiffer than the 7075 it replaces, and lighter - the glossy twill was an option purely for aesthetics, as the chassis is obviously something you have to look at while wrenching on it! 😝
Only the clear coat adds weight. But that's a compromise we live with on WCF parts - otherwise it's fugly for RC use.
The M2C carbon shock towers use Japanese glossy twill.
They save 32.5g over 7075 towers.
1 hour ago, horatio said:Farbon fibre? 🤔 What's that?
There is no doubting that being carbon fibre, it was the chassis that gave me that thought where the countersinking had been done that was all
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9 minutes ago, horatio said:
Farbon fibre? 🤔 What's that?
Fake carbon fibre- plastic/fibre glass with a skin of carbon fibre put on the outside for looks or plastic/fibre glass that has been hydro dipped to look like carbon fibre. The lightest carbon fibre to use is the none glossy stuff as the shiny stuff has a glossy resin added to it so it looks pretty and adds weight
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That carbon fibre looks like farbon fibre, good effort so far though
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Thanks, i dont really do track stuff at all so wouldnt really know whats good or bad
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Mog wants chicken to appease his wrath
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Little video of my course
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Today i put some cones in my back garden and made a track, i spent the majority of my day driving in circles, but first some all important upgrades
this is what mr dpd arrived with
Installed
what the lights look like, tried them again when it was dark, so cool
the aftermath of the first battery, every other battery after this wasnt even 1/4 of what you see here
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10 hours ago, Partydaz said:
What are the tyres on that beast ?, they look like something I got on my crawlers and look like they will grip well 🤔.
Just the ones that came on it
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My slayer falls into the category but because we are in the uk its not effected, doesnt make sense really
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Had this out yesterday for its first run, i have to say even though it looks like the slayer this is a completely different car in the way it handles, its way better in the way that its less likely to fall over but has less ground clearance so more thought is needed as to where to run it, that being said i did adjust the springs to give more ground clearance and that did make a difference to running on grass without really changing the handling, i know of a spot that is fine gravel i may just have to go and give it a go there and see what like.
Has anyone changed to the centre diff, how does that effect the handling and i assume it will do away with the slipper clutch?
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11 hours ago, Stormbringer said:
Outrunners tend to be used more for aircraft,helis and drones
they arnt waterproof/dustproof and small stones can get caught in them if in a tight space but they are smaller than a canned motor
Yes my dji drone has outrunner motors on it but i suppose it you are solely doing rock stuff its less of an issue, i do trailing with my trx4 so would def be of no use to me, i would have it ruined on its first outing
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We obviously dont matter 🙃
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Ok fair enough, i have always been concerned about a random branch etc getting jammed up on an outrunner motor
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I have had a slayer for years now but since i have gotten involved with lipo electric models i had quite fancied 1 of these, so just thought screw the expense and bought a (hopefully get this right) slash vxl 4x4 ultimate in orange, haven't had a chance to run it yet but have done some upgrades already
as soon as i put the batteries in the steering was woefully slow so had this new nimrod 35kg lying around to put it in, i also had a traxxas bec lying around so stuck that in too
that is all i have done to it so far, the slayer was bullet proof with the only thing ever failing was a driveshaft and normal wear and tear items so i think that speaks volumes
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So tell me whats the benefit of an outrunner motor?
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21 hours ago, Partydaz said:
That's good at least they are willing to help 🙂.
My own experience of a 6s exposed diff if that's what it's called is on the Kagama and good god that gets hot 🥵. Maybe it wasn't filled up at the factory and got way too hot after running it why it self destructed 🤔. At least you got the upgraded version on the way get it back up and running for some bashing 😃
I did once on a maverick quantum flux have where the shafts come out of the diff start to melt but nothing like how this 1 melted
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2 hours ago, Partydaz said:
Is that 6s or 8s monster ? you would think the diffs would take a pack or two 😔. Warranty the **** out of it, its new no way you should have to deal with that. I have had the odd problem with new RCs and with a good moan got stuff under warranty 😅
Its a 6s model, yea the diff melting was a new 1 too me and when i contacted where i bought it from it was a new 1 on them too, i have sent over pics and am waiting to hear back, i have ordered the complete alloy/steel diff so as to minimise down time and have ben told i can get the money back if the warranty will pay out, i hope so as it has to be a defect somewhere as not even 2 packs and it failed!
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Im going to chime back in here as an important point was raised in my eyes, i really enjoy the modification side of rc cars and making it my own, for me i love getting into my workshop- its the weekend so no work the next day and you can just tinker away like you dont have a care in the world until your ready to come in and then you go out and test it the next day, thats my idea of bliss
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Today was the best and the worst day with a new car, the best as i got to run it for the first time and the worst knowing it will never look the same again,
run my first pair of packs through-awesome second pack going the same way and all of a sudden completely lost all drive and when i got closer seen it smoking, DISASTER thinking i had fryed some electronics but no it was oil from the centre diff, plastic casing had actually melted and destroyed itself on the second set of packs, have ordered another diff with an alloy case but this should never have happened in the first place so early on i think so im going to call tomorrow and see if the warranty will cover it, im not expecting it too but will try anyways, here are some pics of said melted diff!
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Wolfie1 Notorious
in Monster RCs
Posted · Edited by wolfie1
Update on my diff- arrma have rebuilt it and sent it back to me, so thats a plus
last time i had this out i managed to break the wheely bar, looked at the replacement and seen it was £30, there is no way i am paying that, the wheels dont even have bearings in them!
seen an aluminium 1 on ali for around £12 delivered, thats more like it and the wheels even have bearings in them