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bertberr
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Everything posted by bertberr
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Mine came with the Traxxas CVD's, not sure I'd have bothered myself, from what I hear / read, if you stay with 4S max, and don't continually use the self right, then the stock plastic shafts can last quite well, and if/when they do finally let go, they're cheap to replace. Really like this truck, much more than I ever expected to. Still running stock esc & servo too!
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Been using the Blitz quite a bit recently on concrete / tarmac, and I'm finding it near impossible to keep it in a straight line under hard acceleration, and this is in the dry... Admittedly this is using various different off-road tyres though I did just try some (old) road tyres/wheels from my 1/8 buggies, on 12-17mm adapters, and they were just as bad. I'm not referring to spinning out in turns (it does do this too), but more when you pin it from a standstill, or even a rolling start, just no traction? I've softened the rear end a bit, and put in the 3 degree rear toe block, but not much better, reckon its got to be the tyres. But which ones to go for? Must be SCT fit i.e. 2.2/3.0. Truck is running a Mamba Max Pro with a Hobbywing 3656 4 pole 4700kv can on 2S.
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Looks like a nice kit, and not crazy expensive compared to some Tamiya / Kyosho higher end buggies. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/schumacher-cougar-classic-kit-1345198
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Forgotten how much it hurt to get hit by your RC at speed....in flip flops... Initially, other than the pain, I thought I'd got away quite lightly, flap of skin and some ketchup, but within half an hour looked like I had two ankle bones on the same side of my foot...
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Ouch mate yep it tends to be sore when run over by an rc at full pelt
Ran my self over with my nitro trophy truggy ,it hit my ankle ,knocked me of my feet , i went down tx went flying and when it hit ground all the batteries went flying , it damm well hurt and of course Yrkoon was rolling about laughing 😃
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Don't actually need the whole set, just one for the rear, though front & rear pieces are identical from what I can see. Let me know if you can help, thanks 👍
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Nice hopper 👍
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I love the truck too, great basher for where I mostly use my rigs. Mine has the CVD's but is still standard width, which, again, is fine for the loose surfaces I run it on. Still has the standard ESC too, which I was expecting to be utter crap based on what most of YT were saying, but I've found it OK so far. Servo is weak though, will be replacing that soon. Overall, a tough, fun rig, just glad I didn't have to buy it new...
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Any suggestions for some decent (but not mega pricey!!!) wireless headphones? Want to get my lad some for his birthday that he can use for listening to music in his bedroom and also connected up to the soundbar when he's playing on his xbox in the lounge. Thanks
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@bertberr you can get them from Amazon, but not high Street retailers currently.
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Hopefully, because parts supply is not one of Kyosho's strong points right now. Almost given up on getting certain Legendry series parts now...
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You say they're not cheap, no they're not, but what is in the RC world these days, at least something worth having? And, if you compare them to higher end 4x4 rere's from Mr.T then I'd say they were actually quite competitively priced for what you get, spec/quality wise. Anyway, looking forward to seeing your progress on this one, been thinking of adding one to my OG/ReRe Kyosho collection, just can't decide between this and the standard ReRe Optima.
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That's interesting, really depends on how hard you are on your rig, as with any RC I guess. I know if you start looking online, you get all manner of 'essential' upgrades, which in most cases, are simply not needed. I put the third 4S pack through the Maxx just before the B/H weekend, and the truck was a real blast, did some fast/crazy (ground level-ish) stuff, some jumps, wheelies etc, and I have to say it didn't put a foot wrong. Interestingly, based on what you said about Google/forums etc, I have yet to roll the truck in a turn...and its the standard / original width. Before I bought it, I was sure I'd have to go widemaxx before anything else, but as it is, with where I run the truck i.e. loose, loamy, gravelly terrain, it just drifts. Three packs through and no rollovers. I realise that wouldn't be the case on grippier surfaces, but I'll only ever run mine on earth, gravel etc, so widemaxx simply isn't needed. Be interesting to see how you get on with this truck on the second attempt. I've always liked the Revo due to its slightly unusual design, just nice to have something a bit different from an engineering perspective, that can cut it as a decent basher.
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Have you had any trouble with your first one with toe links / push rods? I understand they are / can be a weak point on the Revo?
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Trust the Devon boy to have the best ghetto solution 😁
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The original jconcepts sales blurb mentioned the LMT and Maxx but they're just 17mm hex MT wheels, so pop on whatever takes your fancy. Couple of US channels had them on a Maxx two months ago.
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Anybody know any decent bashing spots in/around Dorchester?
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Anybody got any experience of this servo (CLS6336HV) in a heaviesh 1/10 like Maxx or a 1/8 MT? Any good? Do they last reasonably well? Or is better to pony up and spend another 10-15 quid on the brushless version?
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Not an RC, but seeing as I couldn't find a similar thread for 1:1's, and this is the lounge... then here goes. Can I present a real bargain 1987 Capri 2.8i. You know, the ones you could pick up for a couple of grand or less back in the mid 90's / 2000's. Yours for a bargain £75K. I think the world has officially gone crazy! https://www.carandclassic.com/car/C1443071
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That's like the 1/28 equivalent of a 12" lift kit...
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Any BT / Openreach engineers on here? Or even Virgin Media? Just want to know if they are likely to agree to run fibre cables around the side of the property to enter into the property round the back, where the lounge is, as I really don't want a load of holes / disturbance to the front room and the lounge / front room wall as we've just recently finished decorating both rooms...
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It depends on the engineer, I had a contractor fit the BT cable and and Openreach/BT make the connection. However when presented with a trunked cable run (with plenty of slack) from my connection box in the correct cable, the contractor happily made my cable off at his end and ok’d it for the BT engineer 😉
As a rule they go to where your existing box is, not where you’d like it.
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I had no issues with Virgin when I had my fibre hooked up at hte new house. The old box was downstairs in the sitting room...I wanted the new one upstairs in the front bedroom.
The guy had no problems installing it where I asked.
I guess you would get issues if you wanted the cable run excessive distances or through multiple walls or under floors or whatever.
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Yep, same as the EX6G isn't it? Almost the same price too.
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Can any Maxx owners recommend either a 17mm Thin Wall Socket (either 3/8 or 1/2 inch drive) or a specific 17mm hex wrench that will fit inside the standard Maxx wheels? My old Thunder Tiger wrench that I use fine on my 1/8 buggies, is a bit of a pain on the Maxx. The 17mm part fits into the wheel hex aperture OK but because the offset on the Maxx wheels is quite high, when you turn the handle the tool and your knuckles are scraping across the face of the wheel/tyre.
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First proper bash with the Maxx yesterday, if you exclude bimbling around outside the house. All I can say is...this thing is a complete tank. The run area was a recently 'leveled' plot behind where I work. The big earth moving equipment left a couple of days ago, leaving a predominantly gravel / stone / dry earth surface, On 4S (I won't be running 6S), the Maxx was a real hoot, very controllable even with the TSM switched off completely. The previous owner had done a good job tuning the diffs, little to no diffing out and no crazy front tyre ballooning. Might go slightly firmer on springs and up the shock oil a bit, but overall it drove really nicely. My only previous experience with 4S is on 1/8 buggies, this thing is much more fun though obviously handling prowess is no where near that of the buggies. Nice to have a choice now based on where I'm running / mood etc. Towards the end of the run, with the car right over the other side of the site, at full tilt, so guessing 45mph+, I hit the top of an old brick that was mostly buried in the ground, with say 3-4" proud of the surface. About a dozen cartwheels later, body twenty odd feet away, I wandered over sheepishly expecting the worse. But off it drove with no obvious problems, got another 5 mins of trouble free running / crashing before calling it a day. On closer examination, the brick had taken a chunk out of the side of the front hinge pin retainer and a fairly big chunk out of the front A-Arm, but loads of meed left so no issues there. Couple more cracks in the already fairly tired body that will need stitching / shoogoo, tape etc, and one tyre needs a bit more glue, but overall I left extremely impressed with this rig.
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Did you sort it through cnhl or via Hermes?
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Having a dig through my box of weird and wonderful unused battery packs, and I came across this slightly odd 2S LIFE pack. It has two sets of discharge leads with a JR servo type plug on each set. According to the invoice that was with I paid 72p for it...!!! Anyway, what I'd like to know is if I wanted to use it in a Tx instead of the 4xAA's, what would I need to do to the leads? Would I just splice / solder the two negatives together and the same for the two positives, giving me effectively 1 + and 1 - to add my chosen connector to? Never seen one like this before, and not really sure what its intended for, but being a natural hoarder and it being 72p, I clearly didn't give this a lot of thought at the time!
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That's because they're not an FTX...😆🤣
