bertberr

Having looked at some of the big German online retailers recently, as well as amain and eurorc, none of them seemed much better stocked than MS, WS etc etc, at least for the type of truck I was looking at. Think covid / Suez are the main culprit. But I don't think it's nearly as bad now as it was a few months back. Just the crazy price increases to contend with now. Had an sct410 in my basket at amain, thought maybe that would make a nice pressure from the Mrs, only to find it had gone up from 369 usd to 419 pretty much overnight... Needless to say, I got socks again.

Bumpety bump... do a nice deal on both together!

Thanks, i may pick some up for my HBX 16890 for dirt / wet mud, the stockers have no grip whatsoever.

Yes, not the clearest listing...bit like one for a hundred quid 4s lipo I was looking at recently on a certain well known uk site - had lots of nonsense about how amazing its power was, but no dimensions...very helpful!

£5.49 for a pair I believe. BTW what diameter are these tyres - anyone have some here they could measure? 👍

Thanks for the dimensions, that confirms my current 4S packs are going to be too big, which is a shame, more expense.... Well, I could stand them on their side, but then I'd need 8-10mm of high density foam alongside, and will obviously increase the already high COG ☹️ and would necessitate some sort of upgraded battery hold down strap/bar to allow for the extra height. What 4S packs do you guys use in your Maxx's that fit correctly in the stock tray / compartment, i.e. on their front/back as opposed to their side? And when I said skate parks, well really it would be mainly dirt BMX track with some general off road on grass etc, as I tend to use my 1/16 stuff at the skate park now.

I've had the XK110 for a few years now, still can't fly it for toffee in 3G, but then I only fly it about twice a year, so the old hand/eye coordination never really get dialled in properly. Got a little Eachine E119 for indoor use, a little less manic in the lounge.

Thanks for that. So, I'd say from those pics that the shell needs to be around 160mm wide to fit nicely around chassis / nerf bars? And the length looks to be approx 475-480mm. Couple of other questions when you get a chance to reply. 1. What is the biggest 4S lipo that can used in the SWB chassis with standard battery hold down bar (length/width/height)? And if you need to go bigger, what is the best option? 2. And what would be the best durability upgrades that you could do to a Maxx, for BMX / skate park use? I don't send it like some of the YT bods, mainly because I have to pay for my own breakages, but it will get jumped and generally bashed around by myself and the kids, as they're meant to be really. I'd prob get one with widemaxx already fitted, more interested in what you think of things like CVDs, proper 1/8 axles/17mm hexes, aluminium knuckles/chubs/carriers etc, steel spur, others? Thanks

Morning all, and happy new year! Can I ask one of you Maxx guys to take a couple of measurements for me please? I need the width of the chassis (from above, at its widest point) so I can work out what other shells might fit, and for the same reason, the approx length of the shell from front to rear edge. I believe the wheelbase is around 13". Thanks

Available again

So, could it be a splitter issue? Do they ever fail? I tried swapping out the three coax cables I have, to see if any one of them were bad. Two had F connectors each end, so I could test them by plugging them directly into the router from the wall socket - all OK there. I couldn't test the third cable this way, as it only had an F connector one end, the other end had a sort of push fir/interference fit connector on it that pushed onto the relevant socket on the back of the Tivo box, so I just tested this one by connecting it directly from the wall socket to the back of the Tivo box - all good... So, I then connected everything back up as it was a few days ago when it was playing up, and... its working OK... at the moment! So, it seems the problem is intermittent. Could it be heat related? Is that possible? Do these things break down with heat? Or could it be something up with the splitter? Thanks for your help on this 👍

Yes, I was eyeing up the Kyosho F40 too - very nice!

First of all, thanks to you all for offering assistance on this problem. I'll try the trouble shooting process listed above, and look into the filter thing too. Re the kit I'm using, basically its the same splitter that Virgin fitted when they connected everything up couple of years back, likewise the cable that goes from the router into the Tivo box. We had some work done in the lounge and the router now sits on the other side of a fireplace, about 12 feet or so over from where VM originally placed it. We had a load of other electrical work done, and they chased out the wall up where the coving used to be, and then down other side of fireplace and fitted a coax wall socket for us to plug it all into. It's been temperamental ever since, but seeing as the connection works when plugged directly into the router (as per my original post), it's clearly nothing to do with their new cable / wall socket. And as they weren't exactly the neatest sparks I've ever used (crooked line of power sockets, untidy wiring in cupboard etc, I'm loathe to have them back in the house.

Don't know what you're looking to spend, but you can get an Element Enduro builders kit right now for 159 quid delivered. Might be worth a look?

Any sparks on here? Trying to figure out an issue with our internet connection. When router is connected to the wall outlet (coax) directly, we have a good internet connection. But when we use the 2-way splitter to enable one coax to router and one to Tivo box, we get nothing? I've checked continuity on all the cables (centre copper core and also connector housing/shield) and all good. Also, there's no shorts between connector/shield and centre core. BUT... should there be continuity along centre core when there's a splitter in between the two cables??? i.e. if i touch multimeter probe to core of input cable, then touch other probe to unconnected end of the other (output) cable, should my MM register an open or closed circuit? I know nothing about how these splitters work, but I'd guess there has to be some sort of 'physical' connection inside the splitter between the input port and all the output ports? Any help appreciated, thanks 👍

I remember those days... used to get a few bits from Liquid RC.

Amain have a 'flat rate shipping' fee for most small items / parts of 1.99usd, so about £1.50 (mainland 48). If they can ship a pair of tyres or a bumper or whatever 3000 miles across the country for £1.50, why the hell are we paying up to £3.50 to send something 50 miles? Crazy old world...

How many of you have fitted the upgraded metal diffs and centre shaft? I've bought the other upgraded parts, the front CVDs, diff outdrives and rear axles, but thinking I may need the tougher diffs etc when I drop the 'big block' in... 😁 Haven't any diff issues thus far with the stock BL setup on 2S.

xmas bump. and a merry christmas to all!

Fair point, I hadn't considered the driveshaft situation, or the servo for that matter, though I do have a few decent torque standard size ones lying around, so could just get the adapter I suppose. For the body I was thinking the Proline body mount system so I could use other body styles in the future. But, yes, prob need to give it some further thought before pressing the button, as it could very easily become a bit of a money pit, albeit a very capable one.

Thanks. I'm half considering one of those new sliders from the States. As I'd only want to change wheels/tyres, ESC & motor anyway, so see little point in buying a stock RTR either new or used, only to have to swap out loads of it straight away. Thinking 3.8 Badlands (original ones on raid wheels), clear body to paint, one of those ESC's listed above, and a Castle 1515 2200kv knock off, which I already have. Also have some Proline 3.8 tarmac tyres I could use at skate park etc.

Out of interest, whats the perceived wisdom on ESC's for the Maxx? Max8, Sidewinder 8th, Mamba Monster 2, any others? Would be on the OG shorter chassis version - just conscious there isn't a lot of room between motor and servo / Rx box?

Thanks for the offer, I'll bear it in mind if they stick around like very sticky things... 🥴

Seems crazy money, I agree. But that's the way of the world these days, it seems. Prob disappear again in a year or so, leaving you high and dry on parts support. Much as I detest the way Traxxas operate (ethically), you can at least pretty much guarantee future parts availability if you're the kind of person who, like me, tends to hardly ever sell a car.