Nitroholic

Your charger is marginal for the job, but it is also possible you have a faulty pack. I would contact the seller and tell them your new pack won;t fully charge. Tell them what you did, the settings you charged at, the charger you used, and the results you got.

Do you know what wattage your charger is? If you are charging a 6S pack at 5amps, you need a reasonably powerful charger. Each cell is 3.7V, so you have 22.2V at 6S. As per my shoolboy physics, Power( Watts) = Voltage x Current .... so thats 22.2 x 5 = 111Watts. So if your charger has 50W, or 80W , it will never manage to push the pack all the way to fully charged before it times out and stops. Worth checking the voltage of your battery packs and the wattage of your charger to make sure it is up to the job.

These things are only worth what someone is prepared to pay. And that will probably be a little under half what you paid if you are lucky. Expect a string of lowball offers. Seriously...I would not sell a part done project if I was looking for best returns. I would take it apart, and sell the parts. Otherwise, you got to find someone who agrees with your choice of parts for the project, and fancies picking up and finishing the project...which probably is going to soak up another big pile of cash. Especially if the parts have little or no use. That way, you have a much larger potential market for the upgrade parts and the stock spares. And the reason I predict loads of lowball offers, will be the folk trying to buy your project to make a profit parting it out.....

Some of the clones used to come with cheaper plugs.... but the only other thing to watch out for is E-Bay being flooded with rubbish knock off copy CMR7H plugs. Buy from a good supplier, and they last a long time

Optifuel race blend

The LiPo battery is providing more power, which should make the car run a bit faster....but makes the motor work harder, so it gets hot. The 15T Firebolt is not the highest quality of motor, so when it dies ( as they all do ) it would be a good time to drop in a mild brushless system, which will make the car go better.

What do people do with them? I have built one kit, and upgraded a couple, so none of the cars actually got used by me with the bushings in place. So... What do you folk out there do with your brass bushes? so far I have: used 4 as a pot stand for a heavy plant pot in the garden to lift it up for better drainage used one as a weight to keep a fuel filter down on a 1/5 RC used one as a guidewheel on my 3D printer filament feed surely you don't just throw them away?

Some days I want an apple .... some days I want an orange

In simple terms.... yes. Slapping on a bigger carb is a waste of time. For a 2 stroke engine like these, you want a carb that is matched to the porting and general state of tune. Throwing more fuel and air in only helps if the ports I inlet...transfers and exhaust ) can move it where it needs to be, burn it, and get the waste products out. Putting on a mis matched carb may give you less power as you re-tune to try and get it to run in a stable state....but it's not 'bolt on power'. Playing with the inlet venturi side will also change the speed of the airflow, as its dictated by the engine generating negative pressure. That will also have an effect on not just peak power...butr also the spread of power. Racers are generally running more highly tuned motors, and these are going to respond to small changes in the inlet, but they are not necessarily changing to increase power. Its as likely they will be trying to get a wider power band, to help drive out of slower corners as trying to get more speed on the straights. 'more power' needs a dyno to measure it too....

I doubt they have bolts custom made. Standard pitch on an M3 is 0.5mm ...

When you say 'variable speeds' ..... do you mean some form of multi speed transmission? Coz all my cars vary their speeds between flat out and stop. I would also advise, looking at your budget, to forget about a 'sound system'. Honestly, they are a gimmick and are an expensive way to make vroom vroom noises from a car that doesn;t make any. Add one later if that is what you want, but to start off... that will bite a big chunk into your budget, and your budget isn;t big enough to handle that. Better to spend the cash on a solid base....and then look to upgrade and modify later when you can throw a few more £££ into the thing. Now...are you looking at onroad or offroad use? Offroad, you will get monster trucks, buggies and mayber crawler/scale trucks. Onroad, you will get cars that look like real cars. As far as budget goes, I assume you need to get batteries, charger etc. or a car that comes with one.

Mine lives out in the shed. But my 'shed' has a lot of space. The important thing is store it somewhere cool, and out of direct sunlight. UV is not kind to it, and warm conditions will evaporate the volatiles.

How old is the ESC? nothing lasts forever. Could just be the ESc has an issue unrelated to the puddle or anything you did. Just happens sometimes.

Taking your questions kind of in reverse order.... A larger capacity battery will give you longer run times not more speed. To get more speed, you would need to do other things. Higher voltage packs give more speed, but it is unlikely the stock electrics would be able to handle this. A higher mAh pack than the 700 supplied is available and at 1300mAh will mean you can run quite a bit longer before a recharge. Any bigger, and you may well run into space issues. As they list it as an option...that pack will fit. Brushed motors basically have the fixed magnets in the case, and spin a coil of wire inside it. It needs brushes to allow the battery to power up the coil to generate the magnetic field to spin the motor. Brushes mean friction and wear. Brushless puts the fixed magnet on the spinning bit...and then energises coils in the case in a series of pulses to spin it. Much less friction. Much better efficiency. More power as a result. You could potentially fit a brushless motor, but you would also have to swap the ESC ( unless they state the ESC is able to run brushless motors ) ...and in this case, as its combined, the radio gear too. You're also now going to need to upgrade the driveline to cope with the extra power, or suffer a loss in reliability. Which brings us to... Upgrades. They list a few upgrades such as a metal spur gear, machined diff gears and outdrives, adjustable shocks and metal driveshafts/CV axles. Now...I don't know what it is getting as stock, but it looks like there are plastic gears in the diff, and plastic driveshafts ... then brushless will destroy those in fairly short order. Replace with the improved parts if the stock ones fail. The real thing you need to think about is whether investing £50-£100 in this truggy is worth the expense. £30 would upgrade both the diffs to machined gears, another £7 for a metal spur. £20 for ally bodied shocks...then £50 for a brushless motor and ESC, and new radio gear.... I would hold off upgrading...and put that money towards a bigger and better vehicle. Spare parts for breakages, however, are always worth having. Upper and lower suspension arms, suspension uprights and shock towers. Plus wheel hexes and wheel nuts. I'd also pick up a metal spur gear for when that strips. Just don;t go crazy as you might never actually need them

Depends .....as I have a lot of fun running an old nitro Firestorm I converted to brushless. It's 2WD, tail happy, and on 3S ....a challenge to drive. Which is why it's fun. I didn;t want the stock Firestorm Flux, as it hangs the motor out the back, while my conversion has it mid mounted. Rustler is a fun truck, but buy a good used one with some RPM upgrades. New they are just silly money for what they are. An old, outdated design, with poor electrics. Traxxas should either drop the price or upgrade the spec, but they keep getting buyers, so they just jazz up the stickers on the shell and bank the cash. But if you were thinking of spending Traxxas kind of money ......well....THIS thing is utterly drop dead gorgeous to my eyes: https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/kyosho-turbo-scorpion-2wd-kit-405386 along with a reasonable brushless setup and servo.

Nope...Birmingham is fake. Unless you show whats inside it,

you forgot to demand to see the internals of the stepladder..... real stepladder users don't hide the inside.

Jeez ...the orange car in the Jeep is NOT the same car he runs on the road. You can CLEARLY see it still in the car while the one he ran was on the tarmac. If the only reason for saying this is fake is because he didn;t open up the car and show all the internals, then pretty much every world speed record car is fake...because I don;t recall them stripping down the vehicle to show the internals. He is faking it becuase he didn;t show you what you wanted to see. Post up your video of you doing better, so we can all accuse you of cheating, faking and otherwise making fraudulent claims.....then you can see what it's like when folks decide to fire off random accusations with absolutely no evidence whatsoever. Your follow up posts just reinforce the fact that you actually have nothing useful, insightful or serious to challenge the validity of the video.

Yeah ... the XT is a bit pricier at £199 for brushless, but they do at least include decent electrics, and the XT platform is upgraded over the earlier and cheaper Maverick offerings.

steering is usually channel 1.... When its running l;ike in the video, did you try operating the steering on the transmitter?

If you were happy with the Quantum Flux MT ...why not get her an XT ? A lot of common parts, same electrics, same performance, just a different look. Just a shade over the £170 budget...but...

sounds like previous owner stripped hte glowplug thread, and tried to find a replacement....almost succeeded too

First thing I would wonder is whether it's the right head for the motor. Secondly, is the liner seated properly? Normally, the head sits in a slight recess to get a good seal. If hte liner isn't sat right, the cooling head won;t sit right either. Doesn;t take much of a gap to lose compression, and it simply won;t run right, as you have a massive air leak there, blowing out fuel and sucking in air when the piston should be shoving fuel mix up the transfer ports. You have no chance of getting it to run right until you sort the leak.

This isn't styled like a crawler. It's styled like a racer. I like the looks, and have always liked this style of solid axle buggy, but the big question would have to be durability. Prety sure Carson are not going to be the maker of this, as they are usually rebranding the generic Chinese trucks, which mean it gets sold under a load of different badges and names. Wonder if it is going to be sold as FTX etc. If its cheap enough and durable enough... I;d give one a go

Because it's a Trackstar ..... Or, on a more sensible note, it could be fluff settling on the internals keeping damp in there and allowing corrosion to happen. This could disrupt or short a track on the board, leading to a dead ESC.