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Nitroholic

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Everything posted by Nitroholic

  1. Good to hear you are sorted. If you did decide to go for a lower KV motor, there is no need to change ESC unless the motor you chose was likely to pull more than 60A. Most motors in the size you need would be fine, but it;s always goot to check before you buy. Should be in the description/specs.
  2. That motor is higher KV than I would go on a 4WD off roader. I would say it is almost certainly the motor not being right for the buggy. Taking out the drive to the front wheels would reduce the torque load, and as soon as you did that...your car was happier and the cogging stopped. I would try another motor. I would go for a 3600Kv or lower motor. That would have more torque.
  3. Cogging can also stem from an inadequate battery. The motor wants to run, but the battery can;t supply the amps. Revving the motor with the wheels off the ground is under no real load, so it goes fine. Things are breaking down under load....so if it;s not the gearing putting too much load on, it could be the battery. What motor/ESC combo do you have in the truck and what battery type and rating are you using? A 1/10 scale could easily be running a brushless setup able to pull 60 or so amps. Run it on a 3000Mah 7.2V NiMh pack, and it won't be happy
  4. Let me stand in for the Traxxas hate. This is a UK model of car, on a well proven platform that could be fun, even though they massively over price it for what it is. Thry have officially licensed it, and loads of Ford fans would probably buy it. So lets NOT import it to the UK. But a stupid dragster? Sure...have all you want! Dumb. There. Someone had to do it.
  5. Its hte overly chunky rollcage in bright yellow, plus the silly design of battery box with the underside flap and huge hole on top to let all the crud in. It just looks like a toy car. Not a scale model. It's probably very capable for what it is, but when you consider some of the very pretty 1/10 RC's Kyosho have made, just making it 'easy' to use and service shouldn't mean it looks like a toy. I mean....look at the Turbo Scorpion, the Beetle, the Optima, the Tomahawk. Which would you rather be running around with in the park?
  6. I think dropping the metal spur is wise. It's a cheap part and easy to replace. I always try and keep a sacrificial part. In the event if overstressed incidents, it does control how and where failures happen. But to be honest, with petrol motors, the only plastic spur I ever replaced was due to a stone getting in. The plastic cover lost a clip and I was just unlucky. Brushless puts a higher load on, as it's more immediate than a clutch take up. Sounds like you are having fun dialling this thing in!
  7. Also worth noting..On a Baja, you MUST change the spur AND pinion together unless your motor mount has provision for adjustment. I had a normal length Baja and made a very short shortie. That wheelies just fine. All the time. Long WB Baja spins it's wheels before it wheelies in most conditions.
  8. Nitroholic

    Tools!

    those nut drivers do look nice.
  9. For your budget, a King Motor Baja clone is really the way to go. A KM 002 has all the basic bits, plus a few useful upgrades, the the basic KM001 covers most of what you would want anyway. Saves you a few £££ and means you can add upgrades later as and when you break stuff. Both come with an alloy diff case, which is a must....plus they include the heavierrear drives copied from the Baja SS. All good to have. You ABSOLUTELY want a kill switch. This is more than a failsafe.... it allows you to actively kill the engine from the TX, as well as killing ignition on loss of power and signal. I had a throittle servo fail on my Baja, launching it on full throttle, Stuck wide open. Just flick a switch and no drama. When you have a 10Kg car hitting 30+mph, it can cause a lot of damage/injury if it got out of control, and a kill switch is just not am option IMHO. The current KM adverts also do not mention if they fit alloy clutch supports. This is 100% a must upgrade if they do not. This supports the clutch bell and pinion, and it gets a lot of wear. Ally here helps heat dissipate and wear, making bearings last longer, and not flexing. Not expensive. The 002 fits front upright supports ( good) as well as an alloy tower( not so good...I leave mine plastic as a 'stress fail point' as they are cheap and easy to swap. Alloy shock tower brace at the back ( good) as well as upgrasded wheels/tyres. No idea if they are good as I never used them. I had Silverback wheels and Hostile MX tyres. Other than that, the basic package is plenty food enough, and leaves you £100 to get that kill switch and choose what else you want/need. Once you get up and running and get the feel of your truck, you will test it's limits. Then you will break stuff 🙂 Thats when you start the upgrade path. I used to break rear uprights and rear upper arms...plus the opccasional front. I found better parts as I went on. Just DO NOT be tempted to allot everything. Things like alloy arms bend under load, where plastic flexes and returns. I also used to leave key 'break points' which were cheap and easy to replace. Otherwise, you make a bit stronger, and the stress moves elsewhere. So something is gonna break in a nasty crash. Plus more ally = more weight....which makes hte crash bigger aand leaves you wanting more power. The cycle continues. As can the spending 🙂 So my advice.... start simple. Enjoy it. Then just upgrade what you break.
  10. Nitroholic

    Tools!

    I have a set of Arrowmax that I bought yewars ago. Did well. I also picked up a couple of used Hudy hex drivers. But, honestly, if you plan on using tools regularly, buying cheap is a false economy. Not such a big issue if you only plan on using them now and again...but for regular use, better quality tools just tend to fit hte fasteeners better, and do the job where cheaper tools round out hexes and cause frustration. I use Wera tools when working on 1:1 vehicles and I love their reversable ratchets ( no little lever to catch and accidentally reverse the thing) and the Jokr ratchet spanners. They are nice tools to use.
  11. No, they are completely different things for different purposes. A 2 speed setup like that uses a one-way bearing setup to split drive between the 2 sputr gears based on how fast it's spinning. It is a possible issue for you car, but we are really just guessing. This is not a model I have ever seen, and I can;t even find pictures of whats under the shell. Himoto don;t even seem to list it as a current model. Which is no help. Some pictures might be useful. Of the actual car.
  12. Yes, nitros can have slipper clutches. The HPI Savage, for example, has one. Doing a quick Google of your buggy, it looks like you do indeed have a slipper clutch. I cannot find a manual online for your car, so I cannot be at all sure...but usually, a slipper clutch will be part of the spur gear assembly. There will be a friction pad, with a metal surface opposite and some kind of screw, usually with a spring to maintain tension. Tighten it to increase grip, loosen to reduce. It's meant to protect the driveline from shocks induced by power on landings. Instead of satripping the plastic spur gear, the slipper mechanism breaks free and absorbs the load. It's not a true 'slipper' clutch...rather just a friction link between the spur and the drive to the diffs, which can unload under high torque. In normal use, it should grip. Check your manual for setting it up. Probably needs tightening. That's assuming, of course, the webpage I found describing the himoto syclone was correct! I can;t find anything from Himoto to verify.
  13. OK. Assuming nothing is loose, and the driveline is all working corectly, turning the wheels will turn everything up to an d including the clutch bell, but no more. If you push the car with the engine off, you should see it all spin smoothly. If you hold the clutch bell and move the car gentrly by hand, you should feel the bell trying to turn. If anything slips...tighten it. Now, when your engine revs up, there are clutch shoes inside the bell that should move out and grip on the inside of the bell to transmit drive. They sit on the flywheel. So assuming you can see the flywheel spinning freely when the engine runs, that pretty much means the clutch is your issue. Clutches come in a variety of formats, but hte most common have 2 or 3 shoes. They have springs which pull them in. Revving up pushes them outwards to contact the bell. Springs can break and jam the shoes stopping them from moving, as can dirt or debris. If I were you, I would unbolt the engine ffrom the engine mounts ( makes it easier to work with ) and remove the single centre bolt that holds the clutch bell on to the engine shaft. There is a set of bearings that allow it to spin freely. Make sure they don't fall out / gert lost. The have a look at hte clutch. The shoes should be able to move. Either by pivoting, or in some cases sliding out with a spring wrapped round to pull them back in. Check everything moves freely, check for wear or damage, and clean out any muck and rubbish. If you are not sure what going on inside the bell...pictures help us a lot.
  14. The XTM motor was a rebranded Force .25 A Force .28 will give you a little bit more grunt for not too much cash
  15. https://www.fingertechrobotics.com/proddetail.php?prod=T-3S-1450 I've always used Turnigy transmitter packs like the one above. Thats not where I got them...just the first link I found.
  16. The Marder has limited suspension travel. It can't droop very far, due to the chassis plate getting in the way, and it;s limited travel the other way by simple ground clearance. Stock shocks were not very good...which is why fitting higher quality units really does help. The Losi, of course, is 4WD for starters. Baja's do like to drift and donut....and witht he right tyres, it;s a lot of fun. It can also be a PITA if you DON'T want to be going sideways. I sold on most of my largescale stuff a while back, but I did keep one Baja. It;s shortened, widened, and runs FG Monster wheels/tyres. I cut it down to FG length, and fited an FG Jeep shell. It's a lot of fun to mess about with.
  17. Yes... It will be. It's a Marder. That's just how they are. I got my old one to handle fairly OK using shocks off an MCD RR Evo3, as they were far better units all round. but you still have a limited suspension travel issue. That's limited by the design. If you are having stability problems, you can get wider hubs/extended wheel squares ( or at least, you could ) which give you a wider stance. Compare it to the Baja, and you will see. But, even then, I ran my Baja with extended hubs to give a better turn. The spikey Marder tyres can also promote grip roll. The trick used to be to shave some of the edge spikes back. I went one step further and binned the FG wheel squares and converted to HPI BAja 24mm hexes. You can get a kit for it. Would mean all your wheels and tyres would be interchangeable too. https://rc-car-online.de/en/products/y0521-y0521-madmax-hpi-rim-to-fg-car-wheel-adaptor.html Not cheap, as that's only for a pair....and if you want front and rear, you are going to need two pairs. It probably gives you a bit of extra width too. Just check you have 8mm diameter axles.
  18. The centre plate that holds the motor mount is not in place in that picture. It should be fine. Though on mine, I did replace the plastic cross pieces with some aluminium ones. I bought a small piece of square bar, and drilled and tapped it to replace the plastic.
  19. underneath view: I have aluminium braces on eacy suspension arm, plusrods running from the pivot that help stiffen it up. The servo is mounted on the frontlewft platewhich has an extension to hold it. Best to use a waterproof servo here. 16T pinion, which is a fraction lower than ideal, but it works well enough. I have a cover to go over it and keep the debris off, but sometimes, I find it's more a catcher of debris than an excluder. Battery tray I made out of 2 bits of plastic ( was part of an old plastic chopping board ) and 2 bits of thin aluminium angle. It mounts onto the main plate and the front cross bar. ESC sits at the back, along with a radio box which I think cames off a Traxxas Stampede. I made a rollcage out of nylon rodwhich sits in place of the stock wire one. I wanted to protect hte ESC in the event of a rollover. You can see the bracing struts on the arms from here too. Pair of rod ends, 4mm threaded bar, with a piece of 6mm tube in the middle. Couple of nuts either end to lock it all up.
  20. Will grab some pics when I get in from work. Definitely worth converting if you don't want to run it nitro. Don't go overboard power wise as the drivetrain isn't massively strong, but mine handles 4s without problem and that's fast enough for the way it drives. I made a custom chassis floor as I wanted to be able to convert it back easily. It's only a flat plate with a couple of holes in it.
  21. I will have to check what pinion I have. I made my own centre chassis plate, used a Hyper 7 motor mount and centre diff, but mounted UNDER the chassis, with a bashplate to protect it. Gets rid of the chain drive and the awkward 3 speed setup. You don;t need it for brushless. It sits where the lower half of hte chain run is, and is tucked into the chassis in the same way. No ground clearance issues. I used a 1950Kv 4 pole motor. I didn;t gear it that high, and find it's a lot of fun on 4S. Run higher voltage and the handling is poor, as is reliability. I seem to recall fitting Hyper 7 diffs and pinion with straight cut gears. Was going to uses Savage ones, but they are fractionally longer and bind up as soon as you screw the cases fully together. Worked fine with the driveshafts I had. Not sure exaclty which ones I used. Might be a mix of Hyper7 and Kyosho. I also replaced the axles with HPI Savage ones, and fitted proper sized wheel hexes. The Kyosho ones are just poor for sizing. If you want....I can grab some pics of the setup I ended up with.
  22. listening to the noise your car makes when you roll it is like listening to a 100 piece orchestra and trying to work out which violin is out of tune. Assuming it's a brushless motor, there are really only 2 things that fail. Either the bearings die, or the magnets delaminate and basically come away from the rotor. Isolate your motor so you can rule out background noise. Simplest way is just undo the pinion. Or if you want ..take the motor out. With the pinion loose...roll your car again too. If the noise persists...it's NOT the motor. Give it some gentle revs ( don;t mash it...this under zero load... ) then let it wind down. If it still sounds noisy, then yes...the motor is probably on the way out. Take the motor out, and turn the shaft. Feel for gritty bearings. Listen for grinding noises. You should feel the strong magnetic pull when you turn, but it should be noise free. If you can, open up the can and check it if you suspect an issue. Cheap motors don;t always facilitate this kind of inspection. You may be able to replace worn bearings and get some more use out of the motor if it's not too far gone.
  23. Very badly lit and grainy pic of my milk snake... happy little chap, who loves his swimming pool, and makes a total mess of any stuff I put in to try and decorate the vivarium. The big heavy dog bowl is to stop him burrowing uder it and tipping it over. Hates being picked up...but will climb on your hand if he wants to, and then he's cool if you lift him out. I reckon I would be the same....
  24. Sweet little thing! Now, if it's 1/12 scale... I am just imagining this with a Lunchbox shell on top.
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