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ALT’s in my Ruptures..

Spot on there, I'm glad someone else gets how shocks work. I've given up commenting on various Facebook RC groups when they always say to put thicker oil in to stiffen springs. Incorrect advice just causes more problems.

hope so mate

If they perform as good as they look, I'll sail past 70mph. 🙏🤞

the wheels and tyres look good

We really need to stop spreading the myth that thicker shock oil helps "stiffening" a car. It doesn't. It slows down the compression/extension, but pressure required to compress the spring is exactly the same. It slows down the compression by increasing pressure inside the shock - all you do is increase the potential to blow the top off the shock, or bend the shock shaft because the shock doesn't compress fast enough. As a rule of thumb. Oil is used to tune how fast your car goes from full compression to full extension and vice versa. Not how much force full compression takes. The only way to increase spring pressure "or stiffness" is by using stiffer springs. There's no other way. Everything else is wrong. Now, you actually do want somewhat soft springs and reasonably light oil on a basher. Within reason. Otherwise they won't last (generally by either breaking the piston inside the shock, or bending the shock shaft). There's a simple test. Adjust the ride height to where you want it (as was pointed out by wombat - directly under the shock cap is a collar that you can wind down, adjust that down to increase ride height to where you like it), take the rig and drop it from 3 feet. That tells you exactly what you need. If the chassis hits the floor, you need stiffer springs. If it wobbles or waves, you go up a little in shock oil weight - it should drop on the wheels, compress the shock all the way without slapping on the floor, then extend straight up without any oscillation to "resting position". If it goes up all the way to full extension and then settles back down in the "droop" from the weight, your oil is too light. That's your general tuning starting point. That's how most RTRs behave at least, and i found it relatively easy to tune from there.

Time to change the tyres. The Jetkos have performed well through countless passes at speeds well over 60 mph. But they are heavy. The Louise MFT Speed tyres are slightly smaller. Jetkos 155mm x 80mm Louise 140mm x 80mm Jetkos - 1762 grams total weight Louise - 1489 grams total weight Total weight saving = 273 grams. 😎 Rollout changes to 49.15mm/rev, which should equate to 72.4mph on 6S using the 1780KV 4292. Balancing the wheels was straightforward. They required just 3-5 grams per wheel, which is good for tyres of this size. I was impressed with the accuracy of the tyre alignment and bonding. They were true and wobble free - obviously essential for a speed tyre. Tyres were accurately balanced using XTR bicycle wheel weights (2.5g) and blu tack. Pros: - lighter, - very round/well mounted/no wobble - required only 3-5grams to balance - no gap between the insert and the tyre Cons: - MFT isn't belted as such - fibres are in the tyre - Squarer edge have greater tendency to grip roll They're nice looking, asymmetrical tyres which are not directional like the Jetkos. I doubt the tread has much of a bearing here, but hopefully they work OK in the wet, seeing as Wales gets so much liquid sunshine! 😅

You not a "surf dude" then?

nope, still don't get it...

Why???