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Got my fleet of savage xs out and continued to build them out of the parts I have The main one I use has been clogging alot, hesitant at lower throttle Took the motor out and the shaft felt very rough Took it apart and found the rotor had seen better days 😂 Swapped out another motor from the collection and was good to go again Re Glued a few sets of wheels Rebuilt a central gearbox Was a good afternoon tinkering as haven't touched any rcs for around 4 months Wont let me add photos as they are too big 😭

A saloon in Wyoming in the late 1800s

Congrats on 67 mph mate

I’m off the Codsall road 🤣 what a small world!

I might pick one of these up, funded by selling my TRX4M's.... but the reason I'd sell those is because I dont really get on with Mini R/Cs, which is what these are....... hmmm

I have always stripped them down as I don’t expect the plastic to stick to double sided tape afterwards, could be wrong but not game for finding out. For switches etc I don’t pull them apart or dip them, I just kinda cover any openings etc. As @Redback suggests, a paintbrush is likely the best weapon of choice. I’ve been using cocktail sticks and the like to drip a wee bit in but the paintbrush seems better sense.

Did my Kagama in yesterday as well 🙈. Full throttle landings are not good I know this but how am I suppose to save it while it nose dives into the ground 😆. I kept timing the jumps wrong and instead of letting it nose dive and roll on the front wheels I kept slamming the throttle to get the front up but always too late, full load on the front wheels for about 20mins on and off gave me a one snapped front CVD pin 👍 small price to pay for the enjoyment the truck gave me 😃. Just need to find some pins now to fit 🤔

Looks similar to the hpi savage xs from the limited photos

Got this collected for me the other day but only just got my hands on it. Proper bargain so was rude not to

Deal of the day

As @Stormbringer said, once it's charged disconnect it and put it in your safe storage container, such as a metal ammo can with the seal removed. Also, unless you are going to use it soon it should be storage charged, then balance charged just before you want to use it

err no if its finished charging i would disconnect it fore going downstairs

Always good to see another chassis/shell without massive body posts too

Yes it is! I’ve got no idea what I’m doing with it.

Deal of the day

Some more photos from the outdoor track at Chingford Gillwell Park

Good idea on this thread, i have the 324mm F-150 but still think it wont be stopping

heres somewhere to post all your chassis mods wether they be little ones or big ones my most recent one for the TA04 chassis its to improve drift angle by increasing steering lock, camber adjustment and caster adjustment the start getting the bits together and finally fitted to the chassis you will need to buy cvd's if you do this

what he has done is induce camber into the wheel hub itself. the servo link arm on the steering lug now sits at an angle ( usualy straight) this method can be done to a few chassis, it depends on the persons ability to overcome mechanical problems. what you are doing is hacking up the bottom A arm and fitting a ball joint carrier in its place of the C-Hub carrier. the wheel axle carrier hub then has ball joints fitted. the bottom of the hub has a single ball joint. the top of axle carrier has a double ball joint. this double ball joint is key, it allows both wheel camber adjustment and hub camber adjustment. it allows more steering angle and less ackerman. there is also No C-hub carrier to bind with the drive axle CVD unit. and allows for full steering travel to max. If you think your touring car/basher turns well, it has around 30 degree of angle at most. with the mod above, your pushing nearly 50 degree turning angle. that angle difference is what gives you the sweet drift action and the adverse countersteer required.

Took the Kagama to the woods. Lots of fun until it did a small cartwheel which resulted in an odd clicking sound. All felt fine when static so drove for another minute before the rear diff broke! Thought these Corally diffs were fairly bullet proof.