Leaderboard
Popular Content
Showing content with the highest reputation on 25/05/24 in all areas
-
5 points
-
5 points
-
4 points
-
4 points
-
4 points
-
Finished painting my 3D Printed 992 GT3 wheels and added black wheel nuts. Much better3 points
-
3 points
-
3 points
-
A bit of testing on the crawler course with the injora capra clone.3 points
-
Rhino rc Yue one chassis kit with axles, gearbox, shafts and links.3 points
-
Go for it, i would enjoy reading yours too. i thought i would start my own dedicated thread to see the evolution from when i first got it shiny new to whatever it turns out to be in its lifetime, its actually quite nice for myself to look back on too and reminisce3 points
-
Not very exciting but managed to finish off fitting the last bits to rear for the under protection on the TRX-4 G5003 points
-
More forum spamming as I managed to get out again. Lugged the Kagama up to my favoured spot which did me in, but was worth it. Only casualty was a lot wheel nut. I deliberately swapped out the stock for some serrated ones but still managed to have one back off. I assumed I would be able to find a large silver 17mm nut easily but after 10 minutes of searching I drew a blank. Thankfully I had a spare with me so it didn't cut time short.3 points
-
Evening all, Iβve had a bunch of deliveries and this build is really coming together now. Mechanically, all Iβm waiting on now is the HCRC high clearance links and a VP 3 gear trans-the links have 3-4 week lead time and the trans was last minute decision thatβs in the post (Iβd forgotten how ugly the stock Axial 3 gear trans is). Back to the beginning. Almost. Vader skid Fitting the boat side sliders was surprisingly tricky, due to the upswept angle of the sliders.. A ball end Allan key was needed here.. Itβs starting to look good now, but I know this has all got to come apart again when the links arrive. The panhard mount situation is now officially resolved! Now, the servo mount didnβt look right, thought it was the wrong one at first but no, that how it is..just pinch it up. The Vade skid can cause the rear links to bind.. So I fitted a link riser.. Problem solved. I fitted the OG trans to see if the driveshafts had any clearance issues and also to see if the motor cleared the battery tray. After a bit repositioning of the shocks both front and rear suspension has full compression and no binding. Iβve not fitted the motor/ESC yet because Iβm not sure if Iβll stick with my silky smooth HH bruised setup or go brushless. The body does look good but Iβm going to chop it about. Iβm thinking around 20-25mm off the bottom seal line to lower the body down onto the chassis then cut the arches out for clearance. What do you guys think? I'm not sure about the wheels now, either π€£ Thats it for this instalment.2 points
-
Had a little test with the injora capra thingy. It's a very capable truck. Drives round the course making it look easy.2 points
-
Love the Unimog, really fancied the 6x6 when they came out but never got one. Rare as hens teeth now.2 points
-
Sorted the lighting out properly now. Got hold of the rear light set and all the electronics to go with it. Took a while to figure it all out, at least it works. Have now got indicators, reverse light and a fog light on top of what came when I bought the G500. Pro scale lights. Rear light set. Traxxas app on an old Galaxy S5 phone. Saves having to keep using my new phone at least.2 points
-
May of sorted this, I have put my Dumbo kit in my new buggy and it works a treat. Seems I had to do the endpoints with the Gyro turned on but turned off on the transmitter. Working a treat now π2 points
-
Nice stuff, just be aware your bottle neck is the 11 or 14 awg wires to the motor, this is like a hose, will take the flow of the volts bit the amps will be limted and just cause heat in the wires. If possibe go 8 awg motor to esc.2 points
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
I have a few other traxxas models, a trx4, slayer and a tmaxx and have never killed a diff in any of them, they only other models i have killed diffs on is a savage xl but upgraded them too sintered ones about 15 years ago and have been good ever since, (this is the only other car where i have actually broken teeth though) a quantum flux but it was the diff alloy casing that wore away and i broke a drive cup where the pin goes through inside the diff on my blackout. The thing that gets me though is after reading online it seems to go 1 of 2 ways either like kpowell and have never broken a diff or like me and am always replacing them, the only constant is me as i have replaced everything on the rear end driveline within the bulkhead, i dont think im especially hard on it as when i go out its usually in a grass field and run 5 pairs of pack through it and dont do huge jumps, i do wonder if its the more powerful motor thats causing it through the extra torque, but hopefully i have addressed that with my latest idea, either that or i will destroy the teeth in the centre diff with the extra drive shaft piece i added getting hot and then expands and pushes everything together too much! I can only try i suppose2 points
-
2 points
-
2 points
-
Whilst I still had the RC bug I made a start on reducing/correcting the wheel base on my 45th Anniversaryβ¦.. If youre interested for more info see here2 points
-
As I said a while back I was kinda having an off time with the hobby, Id kinda grew bored and Id had enough. However inspired by @SimplyChunk and @Skyesgaming recent purchases I decided to use some unexpected free time to get some painting done. Ill be honest, I hate painting, I have no patience or artistic skills and rush everything but hey. These were jobs I needed to do but never bothered too. I had all the stuff, so it hasnt cost me anything. The 934 45th Anniversary spoiler needed the black bits painting. Technically, it also needed the white paiting, but Im not paying Β£7 to paint a white plastic spoiler, erm white lol Also, Tamiya nailed the new Porsche 992 GT3 bodyshell. The wheels, not so much. So I got some amazing 3D printed ones, but never got round to painting them. Box ones are black, but these are too pretty to be painted black and lose all their detail. I had some TS Silver left over from an Audi I did so2 points
-
Thank bud π Iβve got a HW Fusion Pro that I bought to go in my SCX10 Pro, but I could use it in the Interceptor and get another for the Pro at a later dateβ¦if I like it. But swapping the brushed HH for HW feels wrong π€£ Re the wheels; Iβve seen a set of Boom racing ones I like and also a set of Injoraβs that are really nice. Not sure about steelies though, tbh Iβve not considered them. Iβll go have a look π1 point
-
@Andy-Roo Very nice build, looking good. What brushless motor / esc are you thinking of using? I'd probably take some of the arches, I always hate doing it but it's essential on a build like this. If I'm honest I'd change the wheels to some steelies.1 point
-
1 point
-
@Stormbringer 120 quid delivered, and in six days. Comes with brass portal weights front and rear, brass third member. You want to see the thickness of the shafts, proper beefy. I opened them up and they have plenty of grease and smooth as you like. Front weighs 567 grams and the rear 318.1 point
-
Thanks mate π. Those aliexpress capra axles are proper. I'm well impressed.1 point
-
Theres plenty of 2wd Brushed Monster Trucks, but the Bigfoot is only available from Traxxas as they have the license for the design and have done for years. The Stampede has been around since the 90βs, its one of my favourite ever RCs1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
I want to give it a run, but i still havenβt got a servo saver sorted, the refund got issued yesterday but no one has one in black, think Iβll have to bit the bullet and order what ever I can find instock.1 point
-
Bargain that was. I was going to buy it as a runner IF the shell was white. I had a white Scirocco in 2014, it was probably my best ever car1 point
-
It's very good. Goes up all the difficult lines. I'm well impressed.1 point
-
Very nice looking rig. They are great with a few mods. It was my first 1/8 buggy and was pretty enjoyable. Ultimately, though, I bought a Hyper VSE instead and haven't looked back. Way better all around.1 point
-
I don't use the gyro in the buggy it seems after all the faffing π, I wanted it fixed anyway because it was bugging me why I couldn't get it work π1 point
-
Looks very silly. Rc4wd is smoking some wack stuff to launch this in that condition.1 point
-
1 point
-
1 point
-
im going to be that guy. Dont use that adapter. Avoid the Tamiya plug completely1 point
-
1 point
-
Upon checking emails..Turns out the paints are just fine. What was in that box in the pic was the Lipos π Hopefully my neighbour picked them up when he put his rubbish bag in the cupboard Edit 2: Disaster averted. seems my neighbour picked them up as he put his bin in there. thank goodness π1 point
-
Took it out today for it's maiden run. Performed well and the Krawler tyres performed well but think will do even better once broken in. Also first try of the esc i took a punt on the FS-R4D 2in1 specifically to pair with my G7P as it has the ability to adjust parameters i.e drag brake from the TX without the need for a program card. It performed as expected but the drag brake was poor on a relatively light rig despite being set to 100% so might have to look at the traditional separate ESC/RX route like a HW1080. Next issue to sort is the servo arm hitting the chassis and giving me half steering throw on left vs right. I'm going to get a low profile short arm and try that.1 point
-
1 point
-
It's great, and I am grateful that we can both do something together that puts a smile on both faces. Long may it continue.1 point
-
Member Statistics