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Showing content with the highest reputation on 19/01/22 in all areas
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I was gonna say, i'm a bit concerned that people think this is a steal. It's not necessarily overpriced, but £450 for a 4s truck is pretty steep. Not as stupendously overpriced as the Maxx, but still way out there. Not saying this is bad, but for that money (or £50 extra) you can get some full fledged 6s trucks. Even from Corally themselves, the Punisher XP 6s is £10 extra, the Hobao Hyper SS as well, the Rival MT8 is the same price, the Corally Shogun 6s is £20 less, so are Dementor, Kronos and Jambo. If this truck is now considered a steal, i'm done with the hobby. This is only "cheap" compared to the Maxx.4 points
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Fitted Corally Kronos XTR/Dementor wheels and tyres to my Shogun!3 points
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something like this? not the best but i was happy with how it turned out, actually been thinking of selling it. it won “best of show” along with the burger van at the 2018 (or 2019, can’t remember, lol) uk recon g6.3 points
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put the electrics back in the lc racing truggy with the wheels that was on the mini revo, i think it looks badass 😄 just going to try the velineon as some people have tried it out in their lc racing cars and they seemed to like it. anyone know what the wheels are please? wouldnt mind getting some for the exotek truggy. yeah i know, i need to sort the wires out 😄 but i seem to have misplaced my cable ties.3 points
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A Radix 4S buggy is £339, this has the same front and rear end based on the spare parts lists. So you're paying £111 for the new chassis, bracing system, ackerman plate and the upgraded cups. Probably some extra cost in the truck wheels and body over a buggy. But, to save Corally a little. I don't think their prices have risen on the old models like Arrma, Traxxas, Hobao etc which makes my comparison unfair. I'm sure their 2022 6S line will be more expensive. As others have said the list price for the Associated MT8 is looking very good at the moment.2 points
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Not sure I’d say it’s a steal at £450 when you can get that new associated mt8 for £449 and that’s a 6s 1/8th monster truck or there 1/10th mt10 at £269. Maybe it’s not as good value as I first thought it would be if that’s the price 😕2 points
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Just looks like the Kraton 4s to me with a sprinkling of steel parts, not sure why but poor old Corally never seemed popular with folks. Personally I think they offer good value for money2 points
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As a reference, I run 50,000wt diff oil front and rear in my Slash 4x4 and 30wt in all four shocks. If the diffs are not sealed then you will be better off with a basic automotive grease in the diffs. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/accessories/shock-oil https://www.modelsport.co.uk/accessories/diff-oil These are silicone based oils, I wouldn't use the oils you have mentioned.2 points
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it is a bit trial and error using different diff oils, on ten scale models i just use basic teflon grease from decathlon this is what i use on my smaller models https://www.decathlon.co.uk/p/bike-grease-tube-teflon/_/R-p-144605?mc=8344430 on the larger 8 scale ones then i go with diff oil, as for shock oil i tend to use what ever i have handy and see if i like the way it handles lol best tip i can give is try it and see but when checking it over before running, make sure you check the grub screws on the pinion gear attached to the motor and the screws holding the motor on as well and any cups on center drive shaft if 4wd etc and thread lock them with blue thread lock on metal to metal parts, never on plastic parts as thread lock can eat them up and stay away from red threadlock that stuff is notorius for not coming back off if u need to unscrew something, also thread lock the wheel nuts to avoid any wheels flying off 🙂 also welcome to the forum 🙂 edit: this is the threadlock i use https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/zap-technology-z-42-thread-locker-143292 points
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I also snapped up a Trailrunner from Modelsport due to the excellent sale price. The Trailrunner is for the wife while I will be using my Knightrunner. The Trailrunner is pretty much stock apart from some new wheels and tires from Injora (Aliexpress) and a Hobbywing 1080esc, Will be upgrading the motor to a Holmes Hobbies crawl master at a later date. Also fitted the included front bumper and led's. I don't like how low the back portion of the body sits so i'm going to grab a rear bumper for the Knightrunner and fit that to it and cut around it to make it fit more snuggly. I'll also grab some of the inner fenders for it too as they massively reduce the amount of crud that gets sprayed around the internals. My Knightrunner has seen a handful of upgrades since new. Hobbywing 2100kv Axe, JX ecoboost servo (Banggood), Inner renders, Knight customs front/rear light buckets, Treal 3pc alloy beadlocks, RC4WD light kit, bunch of little scale details and vinyl wrap for the wheels arches. There's still loads more i'm planning on doing to this in the future.2 points
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Mine was delivered yesterday but I've not opened it yet due to work etc. Think ill go straight for the front bumper for starters then just get out to the woods and see what's what. My 9yr old son has the Sendero HD so itll be interesting to see them side by side...... Im really impressed by his Sendero HD and was going to just get one of those until I saw the price of the TR. It was a no brainer! I like the idea of the Knightrunner rear bumper and i think the bum drag of the Trailrunner is what's going to annoy me first - so I reckon that will be my first 'paid for' mod. After that, and in no particular order, id like to try a Quicrun Fusion and maybe some Proline TSL's or go to 1.9's....... I'm excited to try this TR (and I don't get excited often! Cheers, Rich1 point
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Thought I’d do a modifications list for the pro model based on what I’ve done to mine. Not exhaustive but hopefully helps some people out. Out of the box mods: Put thread lock on the wheel nuts · Fit the included wheelie bar Durability mods: · Super glue the cross bolt for the wheelie bar, to stop it flexing sideways. · Put heatshrink round the head light wires, to stop the body cutting them up. · Drill out the rear axle cups with a 5.5mm drill bit. If you don’t want to drill out the cups, you can limit the up travel to stop them binding by putting orings or fuel tube on the shock shaft. · Dry wall tape and glue the bodyshell to stop it cracking, being PVC this is needed. · Change or grease the bottom shock orings, these weep a bit out of the box. I used generic M3 shock orings from ebay. · Fit stiffer body pins, the included ones fall off. Handling mods: Add better tyres, there are a few options from other small vehicles but the best seem to be LC racing truggy or MT wheels and any 2.2 buggy tyre, or wheels for the Traxxas mini revo. · Change the shock oil out for your driving, 20-30wt for offroad and probably double that for onroad or big jumps. · Soften the front springs on a gas hob to get some more grip at the front, or fit stiffer rear springs if you want a high ride height. Most touring car springs will fit, I think. · Pack the diffs with grease to improve forward traction, I used red N tacky but anything should work. Drilled out cups, allowing the dogbones more range. Heat shrink on the headlights and the compressed springs to soften the front end. Fastrax stinger tyres and wheels for the mini revo. t. Super glued wheelie bar cross bolt.1 point
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Does anyone know if a updated Corally Radix 4s is on the way? I’m thinking about getting one, but would be gutted if a new one was realised soon after 😂1 point
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You need specific rc related diff oil which is measured in weights. Diff tuning is a fine art, and what works for me wont necessarily work for you. It also gets quite expensive if you want to run different oils in each diff for example. You also need to check that the diffs in your RC are sealed, otherwise the oil you put it in will leak out. Heres my honest advice. The internet is great for RC information, but you can read into it too much, spend stupid amounts on upgrades and tuning you dont need to do. You have a budget car. Make sure everythings tight and go out and actually use it. You may be perfectly fine with it out of the box. At the end of the day, its a budget entry level RC, thats going to be used for fun. Dont over complicate it and compare it to a full on high level competitive race Rc1 point
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better servo for the mini 8ight 🙂 just waiting on the kimbrough servo saver now.1 point
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Thank very much that's really helpful. Diff oil - what would be a good starting point? Washing up liquid? 😄 I have 3 in one oil, shotgun oil, high viscosity oil, and thats' about it. I can get to a Halfords easy enough if that's any good?! thanks again. Tomorrow is the big day. and yes I have some blue threadlock, never touch the red stuff!! 🙂1 point
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Well, I am American, so I use dollars. I just prefer the british because they just get to the point faster than us americans. If that offends anyone I am sorry, but it is true. I will definitely buy one of those. Thank you.1 point
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It looks like you have clockable C hubs on that axle. If you do then rotate them backwards a few splines, this will help with the arc of your steering and improve ledge climbing ... You may have to rework the drag link no doubt..1 point
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It’s taken just over two months to arrive because of covid supply issues but my new crawler motor finally turned up. I’m curious to see how it compares to the stock TRX4 titan but suspect it could benefit from some new bullet plugs and having its timing sorted first. (Assuming it hasn’t just been set randomly in the factory the timing probably isn’t set up for the reverse operation that is used in the TRX4)1 point
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Ahh no worries, and yeah - strong but also still flexible. I’ve not rebroken (is that a word?) anything I’ve repaired/reinforced with tape’n’goo but I don’t really abuse my kit 🙂1 point
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Same story here for royalmail, I had a second class item arrive today nearly 2 weeks after it was posted, personally I avoid sellers that only use Royal Mail now, I would rather spend a a few quid on a courier or myhermes1 point
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Letter from Virgin media, " sorry we have to increase the price" this is goning to take me to £71.60 per month time to leave0 points
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so far ..the postman has brought me ...... NOTHING AT ALL! Yes.....Royal Mail is utterly, totally, and undeniably completely rubbish right now. Getting post on average once in 10 days, and the post in it has been delayed beyond belief. It was my Birthday last weekend...and I just got most of my cards yesterday. Most postmarked 10+ days ago. I am waiting for a RM48 package sent on 4th Jan...no sign of that! Trying to swap phone providers, and the sims posted on 30th Jan just arrived....and had been cancelled as 'lost' having been in transit too long. Replacements have been sent...but its anyone's guess when they will turn up and if they will also be terminated before they get here. Oh...and I got a new years card in the bundle yesterday...posted 13th December in Derbyshire. So....what did the postman bring me... Grief!0 points
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