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Finally had chance to sort out an area to store and work on my RCs. Recently moved into a new place with my girlfriend, and she kindly agreed to let me have an area of one of the spare rooms. Instead of spending money on a new RC, I decided to make a start on it, as prior to this they were all literally stacked under the stairs. I need some new flooring in there, and some new lighting/curtains but I decided to make a start today. Picked up some cheap racking/workbench from G Stack I think it was called: Each model is completely RTR and has its own Lipos and TX, so could potentially run each one at once 😌 Dont want to come across as a muppet but Im very proud of the above. 15 months ago I was single, living at my Mum and Dads aged 33, going through a divorce, and didnt own a single RC as Id had to sell them all. Ive worked bloody hard for the above this past year or so (not just the RCs, the mortgage etc) if I do say myself 😌 Also massive credit to my other half. She is genuinely one of the best things to ever happen to me! Anyway. Sorry about that. Back to RC

Cleared some snow off the lane to my house with the Hyper 7.

A little test around the garden for the Gmade Gom.

Just for you and sorry its of topic but yes the cat sign does feature so a one of pic of Albie

Got the GOM built up. Still need to paint the panels.

Sorry, I couldn't resist.

Got a little esc and motor in the post. Hobbywing 10bl60 esc and a surpass motor to try out.

First test run of the R1

Built up the Gmade Gom and gave it a little test around the garden. Body panels will be getting painted soon. It did pretty good. Will have to do some comparison tests when there is less snow about. Probably fair to put it up against a Wraith or bomber.

Some pos bumpers from modelsport

My personal choice would be: Used Losi 8ight 4.0 nitro roller - £150 Hobbywing Max 8/BL150 - £50-100 Motor - anything 4274/68 off Ali X/banggood - £30 Losi conversion kit - £85 Or Hyper 7/8/VSE. The Hypers are tried and tested, no weird quality control issues, take a beating and there's a reason why some on here have had theirs over 10 years and still rate them. £500 is a huge budget for a 1/8 buggy, well in the used market - you could pretty much run a top tier race buggy or a durable basher if you buy used. If it's something you're going to use, the moment you take it out and do a few jumps, it's used, will show signs of usage etc. Unless it's a shelf queen I don't feel there's much sense in buying new. Especially with the weird pricing as of late. I've crashed my hyper into a brick and the brick broke lol...otherwise the only time something broke is when I didn't lock the pinion grub screw properly, and it met a 295mm car tyre at 30-40mph...just a broken wheel hub and a bent adjustment arm...

A quick first run on 2s

Yeah I wasn’t sure about it at first especially after watching a load of negative YouTube vids but I’m well happy with it .

You have to look everyday, Which I do, And I have had a lot of bargains. This cost me £55 After a good clean and strip it turned into this Paid £130 for this Biggest win was £160 for this, Brand new and unused with starter box, So there are bargains out there, You just have to keep looking.

A set of MIP’s

out witht he kanyon for 2nd time had an hrs break at work XD

Thanks to all who messaged - need to find somewhere to run it when done. That might not be thst easy Cheers Ian

How about this bumper form Injora for the TRX4 sport? https://www.injora.com/products/metal-front-bumper-with-led-light-for-traxxas-trx-4-sport-82024-4?variant=39451020427312

Pity about bad comment at nationals some folk just dont know when to shut it do they 😞 Be interesting to see the new theme tho mate

Fitted the obligatory Alloy beadlocks to the Carisma scale Coyote, i already had these so used the stock AT tyres as planned fully stripped the rear axle and lots of black Moly grease applied to keep water out/parts from rusting also removed the 19T pinion from the carisma scale F-150 and fitted a 15T, dont need wheel speed on this no more low down crawling better, all meshed up sweet

Today saw the arrival of an emax servo and injora steering linkages. Will be fitted over the weekend to my scx24

That R1 looks very capable crawler, would like to see it on a tricky course

cheers me ole mucker, not sure what the theme will be but might have to get a new shell to do it right

Added a Rustler VXL

That looks super nimble and very light on its feet!

I figured its a bit of fun, somewhere to keep the sandwiches when out on a long drive? 😉 I have the chassis and toolbox printed, along with small parts for the rear bumper and "lights" and "vents", the big box (in white) is on the printer now ETA 3am, but I am missing the tow hardware as I ordered a new bumper set front/rear from China and that's still in the post along with the trailer hitch part that needs to bolt on to the trailer. I'll probably spend ages making it then never use it... but half the fun is in the built right!

@MrPeaski Nice job on the front bumper, can I ask about your axle stands, the ones I printed from Thingiverse are not a great fit for the DC1 axle, are those ones you designed or are they someone from 'tinternet somewhere? Tyres: The Kit tyres are 115mm tall, and the ones I ordered are a bit taller at 120mm and I am hoping they visually look a bit more chunky: Injora Tyres Not got them yet, but I need more tyres as I am (amazingly slowly!) 3d printing this offroad trailer from thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3543490 I already bought alloy beadlockers so I already have 9 wheels, but only 5 tyres so I needed more tyres anyway for the trailer so if they turn out to be rubbish rubber when they arrive I will keep Hobao on the DC1 and put the Injora ones on the trailer - I think the Injora tyres will look better so as long as they are not made of bakealite I will swap them onto the beadlockers.

I commend RC4WD's efforts to provide ultimate scale realism...however, I can't remember the last time I saw a real Toyota pick-up bed being held on with R-clips.

Thanks might order that next week

Sounds like you want a Hobbywing WP-SC8. Don't buy a surpass hobby ESC, they're trash. The surpass hobby motors are awesome though. After moving to Reds from Hobbywing, Hobbywing FTW. Even my Reds which is a ZTW rebranded, I'm not entirely happy with. Some really silly software issues. Just buy a decent ESC like everyone's echoed and save the drama. Banggood is legit, I have found them to be consistently faster than AliX, although anything I buy from China directly I consider to have no warranty or DOA protection so see it as risk. Luckily, other than a few items with very questionable specifications (I'm talking about electronic PCBs and power distribution stuff I've bought), I'd say 95% of the stuff I've purchased over the last decade has been pretty decent and without issue.

I dont think theres any change other than the Radio, and the body shells? There was always a brushed one, and a brushless VXL one

Good old Monty P

As I suspected, I think you will be out of luck. Width for a battery is only around 57mm and the square packs are definitely a bust. With the stock electrics, I am not sure you could program out the LIPO cut either.

I'd get the radix 6 over the 4 and run it on 4S if you don't want mentalness (I do) as the Radix 6 has a better centre diff and higher quality gears, which imo are worth the small difference.

Fair too say,Throttle control not one of his strong points.

You said werent sure how tough Corally's were heres a vid of my son Yrkoon running his up the quarry , Damage accrued spoiler then eventually spoiler mount his was still running the v1 parts there https://youtu.be/YHJF_0VE9WY Also our VSe's same bash session https://youtu.be/-tKzm7ff098

Hobbywing is the cheapest I'd go, there's been countless horror stories on here about cheap ESCs going pop.

I wouldnt buy an esc from banggood, usally a case of buy cheap buy twice with this hobby, along with trouble getting refunds etc once they fail. 4s means its the max voltage it can take, usally cheap esc's burn out so its less likely to happen on 3s.

So will this be Dirty fairy 3 then ? Looking good and sounds like your mrs is gonna enjoy it 😉

Postie brought this but not for me, this is for the wife as she now feels crawlers are pretty cool, the sharp eyed will spot a pinion in the load bed, that is for me to drop the gearing on my carisma ford f-150, lots to do on the coyote for Claire, waiting on parts, it does seem Carisma have improved the quality control on this model...over the F-150

Id consider most 1/8th buggies/truggies to be more durable than a Slash 4x4

Bummer mate 😕 Cant you change plug on light bar ? So long as you keep same polarity it should work unless someting in that harness

Personally although I like buying brand new when I can most of the RC's I have owned have been used ~ this is good two fold because firstly you can usually get a lot more for your money and secondly as it's always wise to fully service a used RC you get good knowledge of how the RC all goes together from assembling & dismantling it (plus you know all your fluids are fresh then as well). I'd recommend a used Arrma Typhon 6S as one good option if you can find one within your budget as imho they're decent buggies with a lot of spares readily available for them. Used one here on eBay (if you could negotiate that one for less than the asking price it still leaves money then for a 6S battery & charger) : https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125079931598?hash=item1d1f584ace:g:0IcAAOSwkpth0NDA

I've used them loads. Usually get customs charges. But they're prices are so cheap compared to buying in the UK that it doesn't really matter. Having said that, the last few times I've used the japan post ems shipping which Royal Mail bring and these haven't had charges. More by luck though I'd say.

Been a bit quiet on the build front for the last couple of weeks with Christmas, a birthday and trying to get a new bedroom decorated for the lad (so we can finally kick his little sister out of our room) but finally had a chance to sit down with it again tonight. Managed to build and install the drive shafts, install the esc and receiver, connect all the wiring, set the end points for all four servos and cut a few holes in the body shell for a few of the bits of trim. As of about 15 minutes ago it’s been quite happily driven around the house and seems to all be working well. The current list of things to get done for it to be finished (for now) is: ⚫️Print out the front body post mount so that the shell can be fixed in at both ends ⚫️Print out a mount for the ESC and power switch ⚫️Drill out a couple of new holes in the right mounting plate to move the backwards receiver box back a bit (the wiring is fouling the rock slider mount at the moment) ⚫️Get the shell painted and taped.

Quick update. All cleaned up ready for Dartmoor trip tomorrow for testing. Desert lizards seem well made and easy to setup, went for a very slight droop arrangement with 350 cSt oil. Deep woods installed and changed to metal beadlocks as the stock plastic Carismas struggled to hold them. Lastly Etronix 21.8kg servo installed. Hope you all had a nice Christmas. Few photos -

A traxxas fiesta st body for the hyper gt.A bit of trimming and it will fit but somehow need to find a way know where to make the body holes🤔

I didn’t get any time to spend on this at the weekend but made up for that by spending a few hours on this tonight after a stressful day at work. I’ve managed to put the front axle, shocks, and suspension linkages together which I think finishes up all of the big subassemblies. Hopefully this means I can put the tube of grease away for a little while as I seem to be starting to spread it around a bit too much on the dining table. After that I managed to get the front and rear axles mounted up onto the chassis along with the steering servo and the body mounts. I also found my first oddity in the build instructions (it has all been a bit straight forward so far which just isn’t as much fun as needing to work some things out for yourself); these were instructing me to use some 25mm screws to mount the upper rear linkages to the chassis but there didn’t seem to be any in any of the bags I’d opened. I finally figured out I had two spare 27mm screws and these seemed to fit without any trouble, so I guess they have just updated the kit to remove a screw size but forgot to change the manual. Once the axles were on the chassis I stuck the wheels and body shell on to see how this will all sit when finished and I’m happy to say that it is all looking pretty good. The 12.8” wheelbase is spot on for the wheel arches in the body and the inner fenders are a very good fit across the width of the body (sitting pretty much flush with the side panels) and line up well with the top of the arches in the position I would expect the body to sit. The only slight issues I’ve spotted so far are that the front body mount posts sits a little too far forward and I’m not sure that I’ll be able to fit the stock rock sliders or rear bumper. I will probably need to see what I can do to move the front body posts back a little, so that these clear the front window and allow the body to centre properly on the axels, but I suspect I can live without the rear bumper and rock sliders for now. Hopefully I can find some aftermarket post mounts that have different offset to the standard ones for this.