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It is worth keeping an eye on the HBX Pro. It normally sits at £100-105 but I managed to grab mine for £80. Bit of a steal I think.

Apologies for the number of photos but I'm well chuffed with how this one.

Welcome to the reluctant sale of my beautiful custom built Hilux Flatbed. It was fully built using my own choice of custom parts. The build thread can be found here (note: some things have changed since the build. See specs below): https://www.msuk-forum.co.uk/forums/topic/227885-just-a-tf2-hilux-flatbed/ Here's a quick run down of the specs: RC4WD TF2 Chassis with Gelande 2 front hoops Bowhouse RC Skid RC4WD Yota 2 axles with hardened gears & Ballistic Fabrications diff covers with scale hardware. GCM Racing scale transmission with 8% overdrive with custom brazed mounts Gmade scale steel drive shafts Custom fabricated interior. Cubby box houses the HW 1080 esc RC4WD bucket seats and harnesses Custom brazed front winch bumper Custom brazed steel sliders Custom brazed steel flatbed/roll bar Custom built rear battery box, sunken into the bed RC4WD Hi-Lft jack included Fully working RC4WD Warn winch, and winch controller Working front led lights with a custom made light switch (works off 3rd or 4th channel) RC4WD 1.7” steel wheels with Yota hub, scale hardware, and disc rotors RC4WD Goodyear Wrangler 1.7” with custom foams, and weights RC4WD Bilstein shocks Soft rear red leafs. RC4WD rear shackle relocation kit RC4WD front shackle relocation kit Custom brazed rear anti-wrap bar (stops the rear leafs folding same as on 1:1 leaf trucks) Includes the following electrics: 2x Turnigy 3s Lipos suitable for the rear bed mount Holmes Hobbies 35t Torquemaster Pro motor HW 1080 esc Hitec 7955tg hi-torque metal gear servo RC4WD Warn winch RC4WD winch controller (works off 3rd or 4th channel) YOU WILL NEED to supply your own suitable 3 or 4 channel radio (needs to have a 3 position 3rd channel for the winch, and a 4th channel for the led's), and a suitable receiver Now the difficult part. The price. Adding this all up is well over £1200, and that in no way included the hundreds of hours in fabrication time, brazing rods, steel tube, etch primer, paint etc etc... So, seeing that a bog standard RC4WD Mojave RTR is £560, I'd be happy to clear £750 NOW £699 for all this. I'd rather have this collected but can post if absolutely necessary. Some up to date pics:

Hi after being after a traxxas rally for a while I decided on this instead.

Im pretty sure thats what we paid for our 100A rtr versions

Hi Sol, Your first post made me smile because until 3-weeks ago I was in the exact same position as yourself. My purchase was more impulse related but off I went for a coffee one day and came back with an FTX Outlaw Brushless under my arm, albeit I paid £240 for it and later discovered that week that it was only £193 'posted' from a different retailer. This includes a 2S Lipo and a very simple charger which I've now replaced with an Overlander VSR 6A Mini. I threw my dummy out of the pram today when I broke it for the 6th time (out of 9 runs) but as buggies go it's a great car to learn on; and by learn I mean to drive and to rebuild and repair - the spares are very cheap and easily available which is a big win. For me personally the Outlaw Brushless is quick enough for my level, probably too quick if I'm honest, but around the BMX park and woodlands it is fun-fun-fun. That being said, I did consider the DR8 shorlty after the Outlaw purchase but that's because I was only using my Outlaw in very open spaces and I felt that I needed a bigger and faster car to cover the ground. I then had a rethink and realised that BMX tracks and forests were more my thing so, for me personally, the DR8 was just too big and fast - and big and fast things in tight spaces break quickly! I've now discounted the DR8 for now until I can get to grips with the Outlaw Brushless speed but even if I do decide in the future that speed is more important then at least I can add a further 15-25mph to the Outlaw by adding some simple upgrades (motor, esc, gearing, 3S Lipo batteries etc. As a first buggy the Outlaw Brushless will give you a whole load of thrill time for £193 whereas the DR8 will cost well over twice as much and I doubt you'll get much more fun from its use. Good luck and ask as many questions as you wish albeit my expert field seems to be how to break RC cars :-) All the best, Andrew

1C .....is basically a relative term. It's a safe baseline charging current, which varies depending on the pack. so...for a 1000Mah pack, 1C is 1Amp. For a 3000Mah pack, 1C is 3Amps. Your 2000Mah pack is safe to charge at 2Amps. Some packs can handle a higher charging current, but I wouldn't unless it states it is OK to.

Just remember if you swap the battey connectors cut ONE AT A TIME .solder it then do the other side dont cut both same time boom .....

Been having a blast with this truck so far. I have taken it on many trails and added some upgrades to it bit by bit. Whole host of photos to follow. Hoping to get a few videos done once the weather improves and my usual trail walks are not just muddy death traps. Upgrades so far: Hobbywing Axe 2100kv motor and ESC combo. Power HD high torque servo. Spektrum 2.4ghz 3 channel reciever. Tamiya lighting kit (need a few more lights to complete it) Treal 1.9" bead lock wheels. Knights customs 3D printed front and rear light buckets. Element RC enduro mud guards. Along with other little details like tire lettering paint and matte black vinyl wheel arches. Still loads more things i'd like to add to it over time like scale accessories instead of the rear tent. Another set of wheels and tires, roof rack and lights, winch servo... the list goes on. Please show us your Element Knightrunners!

Some running pics after fitting the Hobbywing Axe.

Some footage from yesterday

I've been waiting for some better weather to run this thing but I finally gave in that and took it out in the wet 🙂 What an awesome car! It took quite a hammering and the only issue was the shock shaft popped out of the retainer towards the end of the run, something that I knew would be a problem eventually and from what I've read is easily solved. I've been really sceptical about this car, I know it's still early days but I had the most fun I've had with an RC in a very long time! I'll post up some footage soon 🙂

So. My boy is all grown up (and in the Navy) and I'm looking for a hobby. One to keep me occupied but not knee deep in repairs and modifications. I am looking at the FTX range and 2 cars are jumping out at me. The Dr8 and the Outlaw. Obviously the Dr8 is making more sense, faster, stronger, more durable etc. Evn though it is far more expensive when you factor in the battery and charger. But for a new owner, 3s and 6s batteries aside cos that's confusing enough. Can anyone offer any reasonable advice on my dilemma? I'm in East Yorkshire and will not be racing it, it'll just be a weekend toy that'll go with me in the car and I'll use more on concrete/tarmac and grass of various lengths. Although I do work where there is a decent amount of gravel tracks.

A lot less damage too mate!

looks the same as my hyper 7 black which is a total tank, even same shocks and colour of the shell, solid car for the price and easy to convert to leccy which i done with mine a while back, all depends on what state the engine is in though 🙂

Thanks for the offer, I'll bear it in mind if they stick around like very sticky things... 🥴

Not sure if it's a good one yet, but they seem helpful and knowledgable. It is called JustKits on Hessle Road.

I'm no expert on nitro let alone buggies really... But £100 is cheap as chips, if the rig runs I'd be inclined to go for it.. That or do more research and look then 👍 One point of note re nitros, they are proper noisy and quite dirty messing with fuel. Hopefully the area you will run it in will be ok with that (noise ).. Goodluck and enjoy your RC whenever you find one!

I’d be a bit wary of putting those eBay wheels onto one of the EMB rigs as they are a LOT bigger that the Truggy/Monster Truck wheels (125mm vs 85mm) and probably a lot heavier too. Obviously I’ve not personally tried running them but I would expect them to lunch your diffs and drivetrain pretty quickly and the extra weight may be a bit much for the suspension parts too.

For that budget a new i'd go with https://www.modelsport.co.uk/product/carisma-scale-adventure-sca-1e-coyote-truck-2.1-rtr-1335002 there is an owners thread here

If it helps the DR8 is £322 at appliance electronics with cyber5 voucher code. Thats where I got mine. Plus 60 quid for 2x 3S lipos on amazon, plus charger. Certainly cheaper than 500. I believe it can be run on 4S too so 2x 2S lipos are cheaper still.

Would love to know myself as have often wondered the best way!?

if the seller wouldnt mind, take the heatsink off and have him take a picture of the top of teh piston.

Not to sure to be honest. I was in a vintage kyosho group a while ago on Facebook. It was a massive group so might be worth having a search on Facebook for it. Other then that. I'd say search for vintage rc groups or forums and see what's about

New support has been printed and body mounts have been mounted. I'll try to get the body painted this week!

No worries mate, pm me if you want a chat sometime or other queries... Pat himself is quite hard to get hold of and takes a while but I have his mobile now 😈so can sort that for you should you decide to go that way... You may also want to look into MOA rock crawlers - basically independent motors and controls front and rear. These come up more often for sale ( And infact an iteration of my XR10 build on here will be for sale shortly if of interest) . I need to post up my latest build on here too - Pats Ventru Pro MOA rig I've been building 😍

So for reference it is nothing like a savage or yeti! And probably weighs about a quarter of either of them if not less!... (1.5/1.6 kg max) They are designed specifically for rock crawling at slower more precise speeds. They'd break if you rock raced them.... However , if you fancy rock crawling then they are the best rigs period... With regards costs it of course depends on how you build them up.. For example: 1. The chassis and links - iirc they were around €150/200. 2. Then you need AR60 axles £50/£100 3. Then Overdrive front Ring and Pinion and under drive rear sets £60 ish new 4. Shapeway parts for axles and gearbox €200 ? 5. Gearbox gears from Pat €50? You could of course run a cheap axial 3 gear transmission - £20 for a china version.. 6. Motor, Esc, Servo, RX - Spend what you like here! But ideally we want something light for the motor - Mine is a Holmes Hobby Crawlmaster Puller 400. 7. Wheels and tyres - Most common to find in the UK will be Proline Ibex or HPi white dot rovers. So really it depends on what you have and what you wanna use but I'd guess at best it'd be around £500. Using even more bespoke parts you'd be around or above £1k. Cheapest way in is probably buying second hand - though you are unlikely to find many Ventrus but others do pop up on FB. Hope that helps some.

Turning it back on to its wheels and repairing it is the two things that you do with outlaw m8 . It's just how they are . I find repaing them as much fun as driving them the wait for the posty is the pi$$or part so I have a large set of spares for them now I didnt when I 1st started but once you drive them you know what brakes and buy extra .

One of the handiest tools to own in this hobby!

Just put some 60wt shock oil in the stampede 4x4, really not looking forward to getting this one dirty😂

Looks fanblooming tastic 🤓

It all kinda depends. As it looks like you are looking at a used purchase. If so, what does it come with? As for getting into the hobby, are you planning on racing? Where will you be using it?

I charge mine either outside on the patio if the weatrher is ok, or in the middle of the garage which is a concrete floor away from anything else. Its very unlikely they will catch on fire but better to be safe, I do have a friend of a friend who had a lipo go which destroyed his garage and about 10k worth of damage.

Yesterday I did this to my model...new centre shaft on order!

Gave the Typhon its first run 🙂 The little Tracer got in on the action too!

Very nice mate

After a bit, actually a lot, of tweaking I'm finally happy with how the body is sitting. First try with magnetic mounts has been a learning curve. I'm calling this one finished now.

I covered mine on my carange and added a fan to keep it cool . Never had any probs . I did cover it 1st time with small mesh so air could still get to it to cool but stop crap but it's the very small crap that damages it so I just covered it with 1mm black styrene sheet . An as I said added a fan .

Fitted my notourious motor into my hyper gt

Thanks mate.I intend to use this for a bit of car park fun but not crazy speeds and also fit some 1/8th buggy wheels and tyres for a bit of off road fun.phat bodies have a nice fiesta rally shell that should fit so I will probably buy one of them.

Mounted the new cab and made a basic bed for the shelf queen tf2. Then took it for its maden run. Completely incapible of climbing a mound of grass but fun to see it finally running and trying hard.

More bits went onto the TRX4 build but I have had to take one fairly key bit (a bodged on offset body mount) off because of a clash with the motor. So still a fair way to go before this one is ready for the trails.

A new 3d printer... I wanted one with a slightly smaller footprint as I really only print small items. This ticked all the boxes and I got it for a great price during black Friday. I'm currently printing the case for the raspberry PI that's running octoprint (allows me to control it via the web)

Made a front bumper for my Hyper 7. Made from some 4mm thick black acetal. A bit rough, but will give some bashing protection. Gonna make a neater version when i pick up a new jigsaw and find my detail belt sander.

Bit of modelling. Working on a speedrun body design, the idea is to print as a mould negative and then use it as a base for fiberglassing over. Fancy Render

tried to do something with the wires: before: and after: dont like the way there is too much white cable ties showing but couldnt think of an alternative.

Plastic is resilliant and flexes metal may be stro ger but if it bends/deforms then really should be replaced I would run it and see what the weak ponts are then upgrade it where needed

Weve been getting these lately and you can get dome headed or countersunk as well https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B078GVGW7F/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_tab_ap_asin_image

Here is my Traxxas Fiesta ST Rally. Converted from a Slash 4x4. It has an Arrma 3S power system in it and runs a 17t pinion. Top speed is 51mph and drifts beautifully with 30k diff oil front and rear. I also have the front shocks mounted on the inner most position on the a-arms as this gives a lot more steering control.