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Been out the loop for a good while, But I'm a bit opposite and tend to get back into it when winter rolls in, I like to spend the days in the shed just messing with them. So I've been off this week and so decided to sort the shed out and do a few bits, Started by building another desk that was higher and could hold the 50" plasma, Nothing better than pottering with the cars and doing a boxset at the same time. Dropped a Losi 427 engine in the CRT, It did come with an SH 28 that is the same engine but the OWB was slipping which is why the previous owner cut out the flywheel hole so they could use a bump box, Only cost 120 quid and I don't think it ever moved from new, Also made some alloy chassis braces. As they had already mutilated the chassis I decided to do a much better job of doing a slot for the rotostart so I could use standard engine mounts so I could use the rotostart or bump box. My other CRT had a twin steering servo setup that I did, But they just pulled too much power, The ESC had a 6v 5A BEC but that wasn't enough, So I tried a separate external 6v 5A BEC that I had but still no good,So went back to single setup, But in place of the other servo I dropped in a Hyper 7 shock which helps with the play and takes some strain off the servo.

I have the alloy kit shocks on mine and they are very good if built well. Lovely and smooth 👍

Mines arrived a few weeks ago from Banggood and it was the V2 of the 124017, well impressed with it. I moved the wiring around the motor heatsink like @Tomley RC had done. Moved the receiver to sit behind the battery and re routed the servo and esc wires under the drive shaft. Hot glued them and the switch near the servo. Had a few alloy parts to fit. Eventually used a reamer on the body to allow the fan to stick out. The body sit's really flat now. I'm sure a Phat Bodies shell would make all the difference ! I wonder now about the best battery 2s/3s you could fit in this car/moving the battery holder back, without changing much? Great car for the money imo (V2) Just haven't been able to take it out due to the weather here recently.

My hands are tied, Santa has it now, my Mrs paid for it all so I cant argue

totally agree brother all we have left in bristol now is an antics last time i rang about a part the dude didnt understand anything i was saying and told me to buy it online haha theres still a cool little rc shop down in Weston super mare town which i love to pop in that type its tiny but crammed with planes hanging from the roof and dusty boxes piled up lol i love it cos he does part exchange stuff so i always check out the small 2nd hand rc for sales find a bargain once in a while, i went away on holiday for a weekend down there once with the missus and she was like leave the RCs for 3 days i ended buying a heng long tank and a 2nd hand rustler her face when i turned up at the caravan was priceless haha 🤣

Heres mine as im just about to rip the corsair H100i out and go back to air cooling Ryzen 5 3600 16 gig ddr4 corsair Gtx 1080 with a megablock holding it up Evga 650 watt G+ psu 2 x 240gig ssd's 2 x 1 terbyte hdd's all played on a Benq 27" monitor @75hz

She's a very lucky girl to have you mate Bet thats not what she thinks

Thanks for the link but that's just the parts to convert one diff. The diff case and gasket aren't really necessary so it actually works out cheaper to just buy the parts I need from MS. I do intend to switch to steel diffs eventually but I think I'll run the plastic ones on 4s first out of curiosity to see how long they last!

Thanks good mate, some top advice there. I've just checked the Time Tunnel Model website and as per your advice; their FTX kits are the cheapest on the net (£194 for an Outlaw BL and £110 for a Vantage 2.0).......free P&P too.

Took the truck out again on a mountain top, managed to get some pics but the fog was so thick!

Shark Grey be as close as it comes I'd of said!

Here-in lies the rub - if you've gotta drop that much extra on top it becomes less of an attractive proposition... (not aimed at OP). Even box stock I see many owners having issues, not just the drivetrain. It used to be the done thing buying the brushed version of many RC and putting your own combo in, with the cost often being the same or less than buying the factory brushless rig even knowing the brushed electrics usually had next to no resale value. This way you could spec the system to suit your needs better too - for cell count etc. Such things were possible because the brushed / brushless version was identical, or essentially so, bar the electrics. For me, these brushed arrma rigs are a total cash grab, to entice new folks to the scene / brand at a face value lower price and them milk em down the line. Not great business sense for a brand, but when your a huge disti with many brand names under your belt I guess the long term plan could involve ditching a brand down the line. It's a shame I guess, as I really want to like / see the value in an entry level 1/8 rig.

just had a quick test outside with the auto take off and auto landing and it did them spot on! cant do auto take off and landing indoor as it requires the gps on. not tried rth and follow me mode as i only tested it outside my door, will need to go to a field to try it out properly but overall i am still very happy with it 🙂

Thats old, he hasnt updated or used the facebook in ages afaik, to much work managing social and the shop, just constant questions on facebook too id assume would be pretty demotivating not getting work from it.

If looks could kill lol

Timetunnel is the worlds smallest shop, to the rafters but he's keen on his FTX prices and ships well.

Hi Guys, I bought a new Kyosho RC Ferrari F40 about 30-years ago and I've kept it in a box ever since - it was ran three times. I was hoping that some wise RC'er could tell me more about it please; i.e. was it a good car and what chassis etc? Pics below for reference. Thanks in advance, Andrew P.S. 30-years is a long time to remember techy stuff

Yep it can be a money pit if you let it

I used to love going to my local model shop on a Saturday and browse their stock but they moved to another town with bigger premises to concentrate on the online selling and no longer open at weekends and now find it really hard to visit now 🥴 Its basically a warehouse with a really small front shop with not a lot to browse 😞

Thanks. Really helpful. Guessed it as overthinking it. Can't fill them up yet anyway as imperial hex drivers won't arrive until next week 😒.

Depends what you are trying to achieve. There is nothing wrong with the stock setup, but any truck can be made to go faster. Add a longer can motor ( if there is room) and you will get more torque, allowing higher gearings and more speed. It will also put more stress on just about every part of the drivetrain. When you upgrade a motor....do not expect it to stop there. As an example.....I put a 4282 motor into a Hobao truggy. A truck wioth a rep for being bulletproof. A 4078 would be more normal....but I wanted POWAAAA!!!! Centre diff stripped on first pack. Rebuilt and shimmed it. Stripped it again and tore 2 tyres off the rims. Locked up the centre diff....then blew a front and twisted a driveshaft. The diff had got so hot the plastic case had melted and the oil dribbled out. Rebuilt it ....then fried the ESC. I think there had been another driveline fail, which had taken the ESC over the edge and volcanoed it. Repaired the driveline...and sold the car as a roller. I had managed to kill it every run in less than a full pack. Running 5S....not the 6S I had planned. To make it work, I would have needed to rebuild and shim front and rear diffs with alloy cases, swapped the centre for a 6 planetary spider setup, fitted new wheels and tyres with heavily banded foams, and then...just maybe...it would have been usable. But, even when it did run..all it did was wheelie under power and cartwheel all over the place. It just stopped being fun. Since then, I have been careful to keep the car perfomance in a comfort zone where it can be run as long as I want, and where the handling and power are matched. So...basically....carefully consider what you want to end up with. It may be a lot less fun than you hope.

The motor is fine with 2s lipo, in fact they are pretty decent motors

I swapped the RX today, and noticed a label attached to the motor wires that said to change the motor if using a LiPo?! 😯 I'm assuming no-one else has bothered to change motor. Why would it say to do that? Really bad translation for 'change ESC setting'?

Have to say i am really warming to the black Ford F-150 313mm..........but as i have the blue 324mm i cant justify it

P.s. please excuse the state of the wheels, need a clean

Quick update. Been busy today with spraying the bonnet, decals, fuel tank, spare tyre, body clips, antenna and winch. Also added the LED extender so using the RX 3rd channel rather than 1080 program port. Mocked up the front skid plate ready for the weekend task then we're done.

Just ordered the blue pickup version, for my brother-in-law's Christmas. I reckon he'll be over the moon! Looking forward to seeing it go.

The new wheels and tyres arrived today just the job, i was worried they might be to big but i think they fill arches just right

Heres mine i7 6700K ASUS Z170I PRO GAMING 16 GIGS CORSAIR NVIDIA 1070 CM690II NVIDIA ED LG 23" 3D READY

Bit of a thread resurrection, here. A couple of months back, I built myself a brand new, absolute monster of a gaming PC. Though I'd share, for those interested. Name: THE FORGE Processor: AMD Ryzen 9 5900x (my first AMD since the good ol' Athlon 64 days!) Motherboard: Asus ROG Strix X-570F RAM: 32GB Crucial Ballistix DDR4 3600 Graphics: Asus TUF RTX3080 Ti OC PSU: Corsair RM850 Storage: 500GB Samsung 980 Pro M.2 NVME, PCI-E 4.0 & 2TB Adata XPG Gammix S70 M.2 NVME, PCI-E 4.0 Case: Phanteks Eclipse P500A DRGB (also several extra Phanteks DRGB PWM fans). Got the RGB set up to look like the whole machine contains fire, like an actual forge. So the fans are flickering, randomly, between various oranges and yellows. The camera does not show it (of course), but the effect is actually really good. My girlfriend genuinely thought something had caught fire, when she walked past the man cave! I like themed desktops, so the background is an animated one (wallpaper engine) and it's just a dark screen with flames and embers licking up, from the bottom. Also have various "forge-related" names and images, for most of the major icons. Running it on a 32" BenQ 4K monitor, but it's only 60hz. I think this PC justifies a 120Hz G-sync monitor, so I might upgrade to that. 20211029_114805_001.mp4

Went to a local Facebook RC club/group meet today. What a poop show. Maybe 25+ people there and although friendly enough people there it was really dangerous. Was held on a small industrial estate type area. I was there for maybe 15 minutes before I saw some poor guy (maybe in his late 40's early 50's) get wiped out by a huge 10kg+ monster truck. Literally took his legs out and smashed him to the ground. Driver was apologetic obviously but there was no safety or basic rules arranged by any of the so called club leaders. I've spoken to the guy who got hit and he's actually in a lot of pain now, ...hurt his back & ribs as well as a few cuts/bruises. I stayed for only a short while after that accident then left. Didn't even bother taking my RC truck out of the car in the end so slowly discharging my batteries now back to storage charge. Waste of a day.