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I was out having a bash tonight and across the carpark I could see this guy walking towards the car park crossing the road carrying what looked like a RC car so as got closer yea it was a kid and he had a nitro carnage so I stopped mine and said you going to play on the grass then (just to start conversation ) so we got chatting and hes not being in to RC long few weeks. So I said about coming on here . So he went to start his car ............ wouldn't start.. he said he for got to charge the glow stick . So I said how long that take as I'm here for another hour go home charge it come back . 12 hrs .........WHAT ........ So we just chatted and compared cars brushed/brusless vs nitro . I told him he needed to do his shocks .his tyre inserts where non existing. .so pop on here we help . .

Finally got my hands on my LC racing EMB-T truggy kit that’s been on back order for the last couple of months.

Gave the DR10 a quick test 45mph on 50% throttle should do 60 and was super stable no flipping, even got some unexpected air and it was 50.50 balanced. Next victim is my really slow Limitless 76mph or something is pretty laughable with the setup thats in it, range was the main issue. Typhoon the turtle wants to be sent to 100mph! Cleaned up all the wiring, setup full rake and fitted the 600m twin boosted reciver, shes now ready for 100+ safely. Also upgraded the deans on the mamba monster x, max8 & max 6 esc's to 6mm bullets, Also moved all the batteries to 6mm bullets, adapters for the 8mm 4s packs to allow 6s, 7s or 8s parallel / serial setups with ripple pack support.

Apart from a Tamiya Skyline I bought maybe 15 year ago, I've never run an RC car before. After a bit of research and not wanting to spend much, I bought an FTX Carnage Brushless.....and loving it! I like the fiddling almost as much as running it and its great fun. everyone I've shown has been impressed with its performance. I have also found its an excellent dog walking tool.....my dog just loves chasing it. Already replaced most parts with Aluminium/carbon, as a result of: 1) looking cool 2) Hitting a tree 3) Full throttle landings So I'm actually enjoying my mistakes. Already picked up some info from the Forum prior to joining, but keen to learn about more hop ups. Might want to go down the 3s Lipo route but also realise the fragility of the car and my driving limits - its plenty fast enough. Oh, and I have some great places to run it - light gravel open areas....fab!

The officially licensed 1:12 scale Suzuki Jimny from FMS is an incredibly detailed and functional RC scaler. From the amazingly detailed interior, to the exterior body, chassis and suspension, this is an RC model that is based on its great role model in almost every area FEATURES Realistic body detail Officially licensed product from Suzuki Motor Corporation 4WD all-wheel drive Original paintwork, with rustproof markings in photo-etching process Galvanic Suzuki logo Photo etching of the honeycomb grill Movable rear view mirror Wheels with natural rubber tires Bumpers, hubcaps and roof can be removed for modifications Functional lighting with up to 15 LEDs Headlights: high beam / low beam Turn signal is activated when turning Front and rear fog lights can be activated remotely Brake lights are activated when parking Reversing lights are activated when reversing Super detailed interior and dashboard Fold-able bonnet with detailed engine dummy underneath Side doors open like the real Jimny The steering wheel is driven by an independent servo connected to the front wheel steering Adjustable front seats, suitable for 1:12 figures Fold-able tailgate Fold-able rear seats for more storage space Hidden storage space in the trunk Robust chassis Solid frame and full chassis structure Frame rails of metal Front & rear 3-link rigid axle suspension with coil spring The scale engine houses a 180 engine with a two-speed gearbox Metal gears 25 stainless steel ball bearings Metal U-joint drive shafts Battery, servo, receiver, ESC, light control - everything under the hood SPECIFICATION: Length: 291mm Width: 135mm Height:158mm Wheelbase: 187mm Ground Clearance: 16mm Tires: Ø 60mm Scale: 1/12 Weight: 985 g Motor: Brushed 180 Servo: 3x 9g Digital Receiver / Controller Unit: 2.4GHz Speed: Max. 8km/h WHAT'S INCLUDED FMS 1/12 Suzuki Jimny 4WD Crawler RTR Remote Control USB Charger 2S 380mAh 7.4V LiPo Battery Multilingual Guide Source: ALShobbies 🙂 View full news article

After finally getting my hands on my LC Racing EMB-TGHK truggy build kit I figured it might be nice to keep a build thread going to keep tabs on what I'm doing and any issues I have along the way. The plan for this build is to put together a truggy build based on the EMB-TGHK kit but with some optional upgrades and EMB-MT parts thrown in as well to make it a little more suited for the off road bashing it is most likely to be seeing once up and running. The main parts I have to hand for this now are: LC Racing EMB-TGHK build kit (with the older style body shell) LC Racing L6061 Monster truck tyres/wheels LC Racing L6158 Carbon fiber top deck LC Racing L6060 monster truck bumper set LC Racing L6212 hard suspension arm set Hobbywing WP-16BL30 ESC Surpass Hobby Platinum 3100kV 2845 brushless motor Flysky FS-BS6 Rx I still need to get some batteries sorted for this but should be able to use some packs I have for my XLF F16 buggy to get me started.

To be honest what made me start 2 weeks ago was this time next year i could be fitter to do more things or don't do anything and life just stays the same.

Got the body sprayed today in Tamiya PS-32 Corsa Grey which is very close to a factory finish colour. Added a few stickers but chose not to overload it and detract from the money shot which is the engine bay. A few more things to do and I can call it complete.

This from Gaz!

Got to ask a few questions here.... What paperwork do you have to show that you own / owned the appartments/cars you stated in your original post. You don't tell us where in the world you are, but in the UK, if you own a vehicle...you would have either a receipt to prove purchase, or be the registered keeper. If you have the paperwork to prove ownership, its hard for anyone else to take or sell the objects....and if they do, easy to prove that something illegal has happened. If you have nothing to prove you owned the things in question, then does your sister have documents to prove ownership? It's always sad when we lose those closest to us... but were the things you mention ( cars, property etc) inherited from your parents? Or were they things you bought yourself with money you earned? I have had to deal with a few family issues when money or property is inherited, and disputes can occur, with various claims being made on the estate. You also state your sister promised to 'fix it' for you. So clearly there was an issue that needed fixing. You didn;t say what that was. If you had debts, unpaid bills or any such thing.....your sister may have had to fix it by selling some assets to clear the debts. You will have to excuse my scepticism....but you haven;t exactly told us the whole story, and asking for help and advice to sort out your issues is not really the right thing to do without being a bit more open about the problem.

Never been glued or run, only mounted to a model, these are impossible to get in the UK at the moment, tyres are S3 compound £65 posted

Fitted this to the Enduro, but was swapped out for brushless and never run, pucker HH motor from Red Winches £21 posted

When I first got back into this hobby, I brought a Slash 4x4 with a lot of upgrades and spares, and everything to convert it into a Rustler 4x4 off @mydoddy69 I promptly converted it to the Rustler 4x4, and never looked back. I was left with a fair a mount of spares and upgrades. My girlfriend now owns the Rustler, and loves it. Im aware I have a lot of parts, and I often search for scrap Traxxas 4x4's to fix up using my spares. I even put a wanted thread on here, to no avail. Im also sure youve all noticed, RC is going through a bit of a purple patch, and second hand prices have gone through the roof. Inspired by this thread by @LordRodders I decided to look for something today, and something caught my eye on Facebook of all places. A self confessed used and abused Slash 4x4. Honestly listed, honestly priced. It was 45 miles away (what else is there to do on a wet bank holiday?). It was cheap enough, so I took a punt and went and got it. As you can see, pretty nasty. Drive shaft and turnbuckle bent, leaky shocks and a ran as a sorta 1:8th buggy hybrid. Genuinely described and priced accordingly. HW SC8 ESC, Arrma 3200kv motor and stock radio gear/servo. All working. I was also offered some more spares for a but more money. So I brought all that too. Theres a lot more than below, but the highlights are a VXL3S ESC, Hot Racing Big Bore Alloy Motor mount and some RPM Arms..... Combine this to my spares and off I go

Good luck with the race as for diet work out what everything is in cals or whatever then try to work out what you can eat as you don't have to cut out all good stuff. im trying to work out a lot of different meals so i haven't got to work out things everyday so that might help get away from the (diet) word. As for drinking mine was down to just wanting something different to drink as i only drink water so im trying non alcoholic beer/ale and that's been working i have also started breathing exercises nothing special at the moment but i believe it has helped in a big way. another bonus for me is less takeaways so more money for other things.

Next up in bag B was the bits for the four shocks. These went together fairly smoothly though my fingers weren’t too happy with me after trying to push the e-clips into place on the shafts (I moved onto using some small pliers after the 1st one). I put a bit of XHP 222 grease on the bushings and (red, silicone) o-rings that support the shock shafts and filled the front pair up with 500 cst oil and the back ones with 350 (suggested values taken from the other thread again). The only really tricky bit here was working out a way of gripping the shafts to stop them rotating when I was fitting the lower mounting eyes. In the end I used a bit of electrical tape to protect them from the big pair of pliers I was using to grip them and they seem to have come out without any scuffs or scratches.

Anyway. I made it through a couple of the bags today. First up, in bag A (surprise!), was the diffs. Despite the relatively small size of these the first one went together reasonably smoothly in about five minutes. However, the second one had me questioning if I’d made a terrible mistake somewhere as it took me about 10 minutes just to get the pin into the out drive shaft that goes into the cup section of the diff housing. After that struggle I then managed to snap one of the notched pins used as an axel for one pair of satellite gears when putting the case together. Luckily I’d ordered a diff build kit to put in my box of spares, so had a replacement part to hand and managed to get it done up eventually. For the diff oils I’ve gone with the 5k front and 3k rear recommended for the truggy by Daren from DMS in another thread on here. Hopefully it will all stay in the diffs when I run them.

https://www.dms-racing.com/models/models---all-types---off-road/off-road-models-all-wheel-drive/lc-racing-emb-tgh-1-14th-scale-4wd-truggy-unassembled-kit-detail This is the kit that I got, there is a slightly more expensive one that comes with an esc, motor and one or two other upgrades but I think I managed to pick up these parts for less than the difference in price between the two kits.

I really need to sort myself out - before covid and into lockdown 1 I was training for a canal race and was fit as, lost 25kg and felt awesome for it, then as things went on and on and everything got canned I started drinking more, eating more and piled it all back on again - so now next week I’m running a canal race in lousy shape and 25kg heavier than I should be 🤦‍♂️ Its definitely a mental place for me, my head space is bad so my diet is bad.

Thanks man, appreciate that.

So I've been slowly working on a new scale project but rather than offroad this one is onroad for a change. I've started out with an MST TCR-M chassis in 225mm WB and MR drive configuration. A great little kit to build and some nice details that aren't found on the Tamiya M chassis. Body wise I have opted for a Datsun 510 from the now discontinued HPI cup racer models. I've always loved the Datusn 510 as a car so a build was enevitable. I'm even going to attempt a scale engine bay based on a Nissan SR20DET redtop engine. At this point I will let the photos do the rest of the talking

enjoy the build and keep us posted as you progress

he means moving to much/far

These are nice little kits, have fun building it.

Wow!!! 😍 That looks great Stu 👍

2 hours of play surely u must of fell asleep in the woods with little red riding hood.. thats crazy time im lucky to get 20 mins of medium throttle same car with traxxas 3s lipo 5000mah its only a month old and had 10 maximum charges.

That core battery will be absolutely fine mate. Right in the ball park of what you want for that model ☺️ EDIT: You won't see too much noticeable difference in performance unless you get something around 70C - 100C, in which case you do get more initial punch & quite possibly a few extra MPH on the top speed.

welcome back to RC and to MSUK 👍🏻 I did almost the same; had a car as a kid, now picked the hobby up again years later and started with a carnage. if you want more speed than 2s can offer, you may be wanting to look at a better model already! 😬 i know you said you like fiddling with the truck, but you will get sick of it after replacing damaged parts after each run on 3s!

Hi and welcome to the forum

I’ve set the grubs so that maximum travel can happen. If you lift the chassis and fully unwind the grub, then slowly wind in just until you see the suspension arm start to move. toe in on the rear is common in loads of models. I assume it helps with the handling somehow, but not sure about the science behind it. Looks odd I know, but it’s meant to be!

Not any hardened replacement for the diffs unfortunately. This has previously been discussed on the forum and some have even looked into getting them fabricated, but it’s not happened yet… I now have the steel spur from eBay (currently out of stock): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FTX-Vantage-Hooligan-Banzai-32DP-Hard-Steel-Spur-kit-/264098803251?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0 these eat stones as they’re so tough so no need to cover them up.

Hello mate, welcome to the forum I got back into the hobby with a WL toys model but a brushless Carnage was my second purchase. They're great fun, and a lot faster than the nitro's I used to have back in the mid 2000's. In regards to running yours on 3s, I wouldn't recommend it. The spur/pinion will go first, and if you replace them with the steel versions then they'll be fine, but keep running 3s and eventually the diffs will end up going as well as they're just not made for it. Personally I would say just get a few decent 2s lipos (EG: 5000+ mah 50C+) and that way the drivetrain should hopefully stay in tact 👍

It was a pleasure dealing with you, thanks man, my retired Hyper 7 can come out of retirement now 😁

Looks very good. I have the Komodo Double Cab, and quite enjoy building it. It performs pretty well and have some unique designs.

Sweet - I've done the same. The grub screws that are used on the suspension arms that limit travel - are they needed? Not sure how to set mine. Also looks like I get a bit of toe in on the rear which I can't seem to adjust out? I had to fiddle with the front ( which has more adjustment) to run true...

It sounds like servo pulling to much power . Did you change servo? If not check if steering links don't articulate to much or something binding on full lock

Features Aluminum track bar mount: The GKSTM aluminum track bar mount bolted directly to the steel frame rail makes the front suspension more rigid and flex-free with a more precise steering feel. Shock mount inserts: GKSTM shock mount inserts provide drivers with the ability to tune shock angle, droop, and vehicle ride height without affecting spring preload. Factory TeamTM shocks: For ultra-smooth performance and looks, our machined aluminum threaded bronze-anodized shocks with black plastic caps and aluminum collars are included. 12.3" wheelbase high-clearance links: With an updated look, our 5mm heavy-duty links are black nitrate-coated, with FT logo and length etched right on them for easy reference. Factory TeamTM steel wheel hexes: Steel wheel hexes (12x6mm) add weight down low and provides a strong solid mount for your favorite plastic or aluminum wheels. Delrin(R) pivot balls: These new pivot balls are more resistant to abrasion and friction wear than our previous plastic pivot balls. They provide a smoother, longer-lasting suspension. Stealth(R) X gearbox with adjustable overdrive gears: At the heart of the Enduro is our revolutionary Stealth(R) X gearbox. Although the exterior appears to have a conventional 3-gear transmission look, the inside is far from conventional. The Stealth(R) X features the ability to adjust the rear drive ratio independently of the front drive in 3 levels. Stock overdrives the front end 5.7%, option 1 (requires gearing sold separately) provides a one-to-one drive ratio front to rear, and option 2 overdrives the front end 11.83%. Other Features Solid axle front suspension Universal front drive axles One-piece rear axle design Behind-the-axle (BTA) steering Aluminum steering plates Integrated servo winch mount CMS (Chassis Mounted Servo) Stamped steel frame rails Adjustable bumper mounts Enclosed water-resistant receiver box Injection-molded adjustable width rock sliders Threaded aluminum shock bodies Aluminum motor plate Optimized ball cups for more fluid axle articulation Telescopic driveshafts front and rear Extruded aluminum driveshaft splines 5mm heavy duty FT high clearance links Machined input pinion gear Metal ring gear Machined steel top shaft Metal ball bearings included Steel 25T servo horn Source: ElementRC 🙂 View full news article

6S Mini Maxx yo!

I had really speedy service and they pay the tax and if no claim is made they refund you.

Weirdly I can see the video on my phone but it wasn’t showing up when I tried to look at it from my laptop. Does the throttle still cut out if you only turn the steering half way or does it only do it when it’s turned all the way left or right?

What Froggy said goes for me too .... you really shouldn;t be chewing spur gears regularly. I run a Firestorm I converted to brushless from the nitro, so it's 0.8Mod, not 48DP, but it's still on the original spur gear. I got a spare ....but never needed it so far. If you really need an alternative...I turned this up with a google search:

However difficult as it may be I would definitely be speaking to the Police or maybe citizens advice at the very least. feel for you though fella.

Exhausted Sawback. I've done a little more fettling today after having the idea of fitting an exhaust rear box with tailpipe. From eBay I bought some 1/4" o.d. copper pipe and a couple of 1/4" 90 degree elbows, I had an offcut of 5/8" copper pipe which I annealed in order to squash it into an oval shape for the rear exhaust silencer. I had to solder end plates to the ends of the now oval pipe and drill it with a 1/4" brill bit so that I could solder some pipe to it to form the exhaust in to the silencer. Once it was all assembled I painted it with Tamiya X-11 chrome silver. After drying I fitted it to the underside, it is held in place with a couple of small black cable ties. The exhaust doesn't runt front to back but starts halfway along under the chassis and over the rear axle. I know it's not exact to the original but I think it looks pretty good 😎

Just returned from a short hike..

Cool nice one. Makes sense. Found this https://www.radiocontrolinfo.com/radio-gear/servo-selection/ which suggests 7.2 steering and 3.6 throttle as a minimum too.

finished it need to change one yellow bit for a black also have some spares but as it is a used kit im not to worried. had to work my way backwards as i don't know what i was thinking while building it yesterday.

MrsWbtS surprised me with this today 🥰

how about this one, again in the original box...😆

To make a start, I was going to use a brand new Chassis, GTR Shocks and Centre Driveshafts. Proline Badlands and the Shell courtesy off Mydoddy in my original purchase Also, brand new Slipper Clutch because I had it, thats the HR Mount from the new spares Decided to go with the VXL3S ESC, so made sure it worked and then went with that Stripped the truck down into three parts Started with the rear I had brand new A Arms, bulkheads and diff houses, so cleaned and rebuilt the diff and started re assembly. I'm going to use the budget driveshafts and see how they are for now I also had brand new shock tower and Pro Line body mounts in my spares. The alloy rear carriers came with the second parts lot I got today GTR shocks fitted\