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No, you don't charge through the small cables in the lipo, they're there for balancing the cells. Either fit Deans to the lipo or HXT to the ESC. You might even be able to find an adaptor somewhere that'll save you the aggro.

Been to BRC Hobbies in Whickham today, nice shop, helpful bloke too, they can order owt from the big warehouse and have it shipped up to save postage costs. Big warehouse http://robotbirds.com/catalog/ New airframe on its way from Hobbyking but not looking like being here for Sunday so the little car is getting its head kicked in again Dave

My conversion is finally finished yay !!, this is believe it or not, mydoddy's Trophy truggy flux I was lucky enough to purchase from him. Upgrades before conversion Motor - Replaced with a HPI tork 2200kv ESC - Replaced with a Hobbywing 150a Servo - Replaced with a Savox 1256 Tg 17mm conversion all round running cvd's at the front and dogbones on the rear Innovative alloy diff cups front centre and rear Harden diff gears in all diff cups All steering bushings replaced with bearings Alloy C Hubs and knuckles up front Front anti bending rod Alloy servo horn Alloy steering assembly Modified dusty covers Proline Badlands 3.8 running a 1/2inch off set Big bore Pulse rear shocks all round Alloy suspension holders front and rear Alloy rear knuckles Custom Chassis brace I just love the Traxxas Summit body with roll cage, very tough shell, how hard could it be to mount it on the truggy, easy right, far from it... First I noticed (well doddy did tbh) that the front and rear arms were looking a little stressed, those arms are just to wide, I needed more strength, plus the Summit body looked daft. So Mydoddy came up with the idea to shorten the width of the truggy, sounds simple in theory until I started to buy the parts, I basically ended up buying the whole front and rear of the trophy buggy, found a good deal and worked out cheaper. My next problem was the shocks, with the arms shorter the shocks just didn't work, I had to use two rear buggy shock towers, found there were no holes for the truggy bumper so had to drill them and mod the front bumper slightly. Once that was all put together I used some wheel extenders to give me some of the width back, with the shorter arms and buggy upper arms, shorter cvd's ect I could instantly tell it was way stronger. I had a bit of a game mounting the body, I used a mix of angle, brackets, e-revo mounts and summit body posts, what a pain that was.. Anyway, Im really pleased with it how it turned out, it's been a big learning curve.... it handles like a dream too, with what little time I had to test it today, handles much tighter, I thought It may of been top heavy and be prone to rolling but it doesn't, what went from wanting to mount a new body turned into one expensive mod indeed. Its actually lighter now than it was before which was kinda funny, yup I weighed it before... If I had one little niggle, it would be the body is slightly higher than I wanted but I was governed by the height of the towers...no biggie really. Just thought Id share it with you guys n gals Hope you like it... Running vid soon ....

Ha ha ha knew you go bigger and faster after all that egging on from noj. On a more serious note tell me how she runs on 5s as there is no such thing as too fast lol.

Not a hard job at all to do bud, getting it out is a 5 minute job, same for putting it back, and whatever it takes you to clean it up and change oils... Put your bolts back where they're meant to go in the parts you take off and it's really easy, that's the only problem I ever have, but getting the hang of it now, stripped and rebuilt enough of them TFE probably has.

Easy enough job to do. Start by stripping the spur gear and brake assemblies. Remove the exhaust, rear top plate, pop out the upper pivot pins. Diff case off...open her up, sort hte diff...re-grease the gearbox gears and slap it back together.

Would be epic with some decent bike ramps

Think he ordered two sets then

Erm. YEAH!

Ordered 4 XL shocks from Jenny's on 25 - Feb,

turnigy nano tech hardcase lipos, I like these, good value, heard good things about the zippy hardcase ones too. Personally I like the HPI Plazma lipos, can't go wrong with those. As for motor an esc, mamba monster with a ezrun 150amp esc, job done ! or the ripper combo that comes with the thunder tiger mt4.. Personally, 9 times out of 10 your better off selling your nitro and buying a new brushless RTR....

If thats the case then I really do think a rapid drive over to A&E is needed...

Hiya mate, I used some brackets from BnQ, the bottom two were bigger upside down L shaped ones and the top ones were...well... this shape L but the other way around Then I bolted them together, sawed the top off a front Traxxas E-revo mount and screwed that in place using the top brackets, then bent over what was left of the top of the bracket around the mount to make it look better and help the screws hold it down more ..plus it needs to be sloping down a little to give the mount posts a flush fit with the body shell. Then It was just a case of cutting down and sliding the Summit posts into the mount and securing it.. Probably makes no sense at all but it's kinda hard to explain, its solid though and looks better than it sounds haha. To match it up and make it blend in, I just glossed the brackets black with a fine brush...Def more DIY than HPI lol

This is next weekend may enter the Hyper 7 and ST 16/03/14 BRCA TRUGGY + E-Buggy National Westmill Dirt Info Only

This is what I think of when I see your shell...

Summit shell looks good. Perhaps it could be called a MDB ...Monster Doddy Buggy how'd ya mount the front mounts?

I use my iphone power plug,the usb lead fits it,when the red led on the flysky changes to Green then job is a good one

Tested it on 5s, far better than 4s!

Thought I would post the pics of new shell

My baby Yup, its a truggy, well it was....

And all nice and clean ready to get mucky again at the weekend Also bought HD Lightweight diff outputs for the f&r diffs today and may treat her to Ti Turnbuckles next week

Made it go faster!

nice is it 24 speed with peddles though

soft spring give more grip onto front. it doesn't matter anyway as long the front wheel are pointing straight.

I asked similar questions myself when I purchased mine a few months back. I was informed on this forum that if charging by USB, it will automatically shut off once the battery is fully charged. Not tested this method yet though. Plus side of having a FS is having multiple Rx's off one Tx, and the Rx's can be picked up for a few quid.

soft spring in front. hard in back. 1 degree toe out.

So a bit of good news this morning, or at least good news for me anyway, theirs been a Flysky GT3B box sat on my parents wardrobe for a good 6 months... I always assumed the radio I sold with my Slash was the radio out of that box, but apparently not, for some unknown reason I just had a sudden urge to check the box and to my surprise and amazement, a brand new tx and rx sat in it... I don't even remember buying it, yet there it is lol. So I'm pretty happy, saved me

If it has b00bs or wheels it'll cause a man problems!

That is looking awesome, love the wheels, what are they?

Wouldnt go worrying too much about the rear shocks. Unless they are pouring out oil or the rubber mounts are **** you'veu cannot fail them anymore. The bounce / rebound test has been removed. They dont have to function only to be fitted, not leaking and mounted securely. Sounds silly I know but it yet another part of the test that has changed. Various things have changed recently such as DPF and diesel cats now have to be fitted and will fail if been removed. The MOT is all I for a massive change next year with it all going internet based and being yet again re-written to fall more in line with Europe and trying to make it the same test in every European country. I k ow I sound a bit of an anorak with the MOTs but I work very closely with a regional Vosa officer due to the sector I am now in. I get all the New info and have to learn it all and am randomly tested on the spot to make sure I am up with it all.

finally here are the build photos from this week , just been really busy so havent had chance to put them up i started to get parts through the post on Tuesday which i meant to get months ago but i eventually got round to it New shell & paint Slipper pads New Screws 7000k Diff oil rear diff plate traxxas rod ends The connectors are for my charger Tyre Glue Body clips ( always losing them ) Diff grease Gear box set (for the little tiny black spacer ) HD Gear box cups HD Diff cups Proline gladiators So with all these parts i got to work I firstly took apart the re oiled the bearings and oiled the gears , re assembled and added new hd cups I them attempted to glue tyres and rims for the very first time , they came out well i think as i watched jang rc's video on youtube as a guide. I bought some ca tyre glue and got to work. around half an hour later and nearly gluing my fingers together once they dried walla only with one little defect ( i took them for a test tonight and they didnt budge so a good job from me ) Stripped the front and rear diffs down and cleaned out all the old grease that smelt really weird , anyway cleaned the diff cases and stripped the actual diffs down to clean and fill with new diff oil. Ow i treated myself to a 12 in 1 hex driver set to replace the numerous allen keys i have been through i thought i would get something proper Anyway back to the re build I re assembled and smothered the diff case & diff in mob grease , ow and new HD cups as well Attached the rear end whilst putting new black shock socks on , there was some play in the centre shaft so i cut up some fuel tubing and put abit in each end. its nice and snug now so i will see how holds up. Same with the front end so no need to with more pics but basically the same as the rear end. re attached it and whacked on the new wheel/tyre combo which looks sweet i reckon Before anyone says the front and back are different , yes i know the rear are old as i got off a friend but are hardly worn so i got another set to complete the truck. I didnt take anymore photos but i re stuck down the esc and routed the wires to the rx box put on the shell and took it for a spin down the local car park. first blip of the throttle and it was pulling wheelies all over the place as the tyres are really gripped as it was grip rolling left right and centre. The slipper clutch needs tightening up abit as it was slipping and i need to get hold of some traxxas turn-buckles as the stock tracking is pants but for now it will do. i have really missed the speed of the xs and am glad to have it back up and running, all i need now is to give it a proper bash to see how these hd parts hold up. Going to painting the new shell in the next few days and will be re gluing the old tyres so i can use them when i need to chuck it over some huge jumps or what ever the truck is how i want it for the time being , will be getting the turn buckles when they come back into stock but apart from that its right where i want it for now until next time thanks for reading

OK, I've fitted a 6s compatible ESC. I'll start off with 5s and see how she goes. Finger's crossed.

I couldn't help my self so did a bit more to it also will be doing a D110 van I think very soon as we'll Got to do seating and the pickup part and then sand down primer

Garage is coming along nicely

You could actually have the shocks set to different levels without there being a tweak in the car, for example the springs may be slightly different lengths from the factory., or the car is heavier on one side or in one corner. You can go to great lengths to set the tweak in a car with spring pre-load but to be honest if your car accelerates and brakes in a straight line then you will be OK to just keep the collars at the same position on both sides of the car - I do.

Te hobbywing sc8 is a good esc if you're planning on running 4s and would save you about

Cheap set up could cost around

new shell :-)

Honestly once it's run in, those engines pull like a train, and run well. The way I prime is just get fuel to carb, pull once more, then put the glow on and try to fire it. Have you sealed the engine yet?

almost done I just need to get another blue screw for the topdeck. I was in to minds about buying the chassis with the high price tag but im really happy with it so far. I just like to say thanks for p-dub for holding the conversion kit for me while the chassis came in to stock.