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Breaking-in your nitro engine.


Samari

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  • 1 month later...

How important is it to use a hairdryer? Cause I will be breaking in my engine at the park and the park doesn't have power points so I cant use a hairdryer and it's winter here which means 15deg days. Is the hairdryer just to make life easier when trying to start new engines and can you get by without one?

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  • 1 month later...
Well that was the easiest thing i have done. Just broke in my mac .28 today, who said they are a pig to tune?

Its just 1 of those things mate :)

Some people who can tune other engines JUST like that - but when it comes to the mach they just couldnt get a suitable tune

Also to the argument of lower nitro for break in - DONT

Use what ever you are intending to run

So say ur gonna use 16% - break it in on 16% dont change :)

Ziggy

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My cen F.Factor Atx has been broken in on 20% nitro, it has an NT-16 engine and from reading reports it's not a prefered engine. I was given half a litre of 20% nitro when I bought the car, and that stuff made it go like a rocket. Now thats run out I've gotta get some new fuel, so would 16% nitro make much differance to performance/starting and engine life? I'm not into racing, just bashing around in the field behind our house and don't really want to break kids ankles if I run into them. (Mind you, there is a kid I'll ask to put his head on the ground! :spam_laser: and get a N2O kit fitted for the event)

Thanx for any advice offered chaps and chapesses!

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  • 2 weeks later...

hi, when breaking the engine in, at the end of each tank do you just let the engine stop on its own when the fuel runs out or do stop it when fuel is low.

also how cool should you let the engine get before putting the next tank in?

thanks

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  • 1 month later...

As a temperature guide I use the 'spit test'. You just put a small amount of saliva on your funger then put it on the head of the engine, if it evaporates in 1-2 seconds its at a good temp, if any quicker - too hot. If any slower - too cool! It's obviously only a rough guide but a cheap (free infact!) alternative to a heat gun.

I've never used the hairdryer for break-in. My swift was awesomely easy to break in, i followed the instuctions as they said the engine had been factory tuned for easy break-in. Started on about the third pull, idled through the first 2 tanks, then 1/4-1/2 throttle on the next 2-3 tanks. Then slowly start to lean the HSN 1/8th turn at a time until optimal! Always starts on the 1st or 2nd pull and will still idle through a tank, and will always run right through a tank without stalling! A huge difference to my old car!

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  • 2 weeks later...

heay guys i just bought a acme condor. this is my first nitro car and am having problems getting it started. it wont idle just stalls 2 seconds after a remove the glow plug. i dont know if it is the fuel i am using (qwickfire16) could eny one help me with this problem .thanks

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Ideally mate this topic needs to be put into general nitro thread, but i will tell you to open up your throttle a little bit more due to rich run in settings, also keep the glow plug starter on for a few seconds once its started just to help the engine build up a bit of heat so it will idle, due to rich settings the excessive amount of fuel trys to stop the glow plug from glowing and cuts the engine out.

The model technics fuel you are using is also not a very good brand mate its way to oily (thats why lhs supply it to you so even on a lean tune its hard to seize it up so you the customer don't come back for repair claims).

Use the fuel up and get some decent fuel with less oil content trust me it won't blow up if you can see blue smoke all through the rev range you are safe.

Byrons, o'donells, tornado are loads better and you will get more power from your engine.

Make yourself welcome by introducing yourself in the welcomes topic, anyway welcome to the forum mate.

marty :)

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  • 1 month later...
  • 5 weeks later...

hi all , this topic has helped me out alot, got my first nitro the other day and i have to say it was a pig to start for the first time today, will try some of them tips tomoz

many thanks

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  • 4 weeks later...

How to run-in a 2 stroke is such a contentious issue! I run mine on rich seetings for a few tanks and then gradually tune it over the next few tanks and I have never had an engine let go. Ideally the piston needs to hone the bore as fast as possible which will give the best power output. I have seen two new 125cc 2 stroke motorbikes run-in in different ways, one was hammered from day one and the other was done by the book and the the hammered one was quicker on acceleration and top end (neither has broken yet)! Whether this applies to small model engines I don't know but I'm willing to give it a try when I get a new one.

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I find it an interesting subject as I think there's a lot of BS going on from manufacturers. All that breaking an engine in is doing is honing the bore which should happen really quickly. The metalergy will not be changed by succesive runs as the the metals are worked at higher temperatures in construction. Ok pistons and heads can be melted by running at excessive temps but that's down to lean running and the bearing surfaces should not need breaking in. So how many tanks are really needed for break in? If I had money to waste then I'd love to do a back to back test with the break-in/no break-in methods and then do some detailed analysis and measurement.

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