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Breaking-in your nitro engine.


Samari

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hi

all need some help please very new to rc nitros.my query is I followed the start up of breaking in an engine

no receiver or transmitter switched on.tried to put the throttle 1/4 of the way as stated.came to start the car and it started revving very high  so had to stop this incase it seized .

I have the rtr trophy truggy 4.6 v2 engine using optifuel 25% as stated in the bookall the needles are at factory settings.not sure what to do.it is a brand new engine.

any help appreciated

thanks

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You need the electrics ON....if you dont then the car may well "run away" causing all sorts of mayhem. Also, as you described, you have manually opened the throttle a 1/4 turn then of course the engines gonna be revving its nuts off. Best way, imo, is turn transmitter on, then the receiver. Move your throttle trim between 1/4 and 1/2 forward/open and then try to start the engine. Once it starts gradually move the throttle trim back to neutral and you should be good......

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Question. I bought a hyper 7 second hand today with a newly installed .28 engine and the air filter is safety clipped so I can't check the 1mm gap....am I ok to just snip it as I have no replacements as yet??

Yeah, that's not a problem at all.............In fact, you'll find that you'll probably need to keep removing the filter from time to time anyway.

Edited by chrisjw
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  • 1 month later...

Hi I have recently purchased a hobao hyper ss truggy I ran the first tank of fuel through it fine I'm now onto tank 2 for some reason after 5 minutes the engine revs up like crazy the temp is between 190-210 can anyone tell me why its revving up?? Its at base settings too. Thanks

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Hi I have recently purchased a hobao hyper ss truggy I ran the first tank of fuel through it fine I'm now onto tank 2 for some reason after 5 minutes the engine revs up like crazy the temp is between 190-210 can anyone tell me why its revving up?? Its at base settings too. Thanks

If the engine revs increase then either the throttle is opening or the fuel mixture is leaning off.

Are you letting the engine sit at idle speed?

It will not hurt to richen the LSN.

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If the engine revs increase then either the throttle is opening or the fuel mixture is leaning off.

Are you letting the engine sit at idle speed?

It will not hurt to richen the LSN.

Hi...thanks for the reply...yes it's justvsat on the run in block idling in the manual it told me not 2 touch it until it was run in so scared me off...but I will give it a try...thanks. How are u finding ur hobao's? This is my first
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Hi...thanks for the reply...yes it's justvsat on the run in block idling in the manual it told me not 2 touch it until it was run in so scared me off...but I will give it a try...thanks. How are u finding ur hobao's? This is my first

I personally do not recommend idling a new engine...do you have a link to the manual that is telling you this or pictures? I can see the actual car manual and that gives assembly/part number information....a UK distributor used to include a few information sheets with RTR cars- http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/diagrams/HoBao/Engines/HB_Engine_settings_MacStar_28.pdf and another more generic sheet.

 

Anyways..richen it up on the LSN...ensure piston is around BDC when not running...gentle throttle/load for first tanks with rich mixture..then increase load and lean mixture...new engines can be a pain and run inconsistently.

 

As for your final question...yes I do like Hobao. 

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I personally do not recommend idling a new engine...do you have a link to the manual that is telling you this or pictures? I can see the actual car manual and that gives assembly/part number information....a UK distributor used to include a few information sheets with RTR cars- http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/diagrams/HoBao/Engines/HB_Engine_settings_MacStar_28.pdf and another more generic sheet.

 

Anyways..richen it up on the LSN...ensure piston is around BDC when not running...gentle throttle/load for first tanks with rich mixture..then increase load and lean mixture...new engines can be a pain and run inconsistently.

 

As for your final question...yes I do like Hobao.

Thanks again for that....just been out and did everything u said...it's running beautifully...your help is much appreciated my friend

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  • 2 months later...

Hi, I'm new to forums and nitro R.Cs so please be patient.

Having bought a new Hpi firestorm 10t for my son for Christmas I'd been reading about how to break in the engine so thought it my duty to get the car ready for Christmas morning. On the forth tank of fuel the car seemed to fly off at full throttle and smashed into a kerb, all seemed to be ok and having retrieved it the fuel tank was empty. I let the engine cool then started it for the 5th run again the car shot off when it had run out of fuel but this time the front end of the car is ruined, I'm going to contact the shop tomorrow about this. Any advice would be great

Cheers

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The engine revs will increase when it runs out of fuel because the mixture is leaning off....the richer the engine is then the more the revs will increase when it gets lean...if that makes sense.

 

The car should never shoot off out of control...ensure the failsafe is set correctly and if you do not have a failsafe then you should really consider getting one.

 

When running it is always a good idea to keep an eye on the fuel level and do not let it run completely empty to prevent the lean running condition.

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The engine revs will increase when it runs out of fuel because the mixture is leaning off....the richer the engine is then the more the revs will increase when it gets lean...if that makes sense.

 

The car should never shoot off out of control...ensure the failsafe is set correctly and if you do not have a failsafe then you should really consider getting one.

 

When running it is always a good idea to keep an eye on the fuel level and do not let it run completely empty to prevent the lean running condition.

+1

Running lean / out MIGHT risk damage - unusual to a nicely broken in motor. Engines get their lubrication from the fuel - that's where the oil is.

Most radio sets have built-in fail-safes, so check if yours has one, and set it - normally to 2/3 - full brakes and some put in some steering lock.

 

Al.

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  • 4 years later...

Old post but so am I. I am old school so i'll say it this way. 

The materials our engines are manufactured from have not changed, the tolerances have not changed either, the only thing that has changed is the number of ports. 

I break in my engines the old school way. 

I run them 1/16th richer than optimal and run the car on the ground. This takes about IDK (1 tank of fuel) I break in my engines using the fuel I will use all the time for that particular engine.

 

Why do I do it this way? Good question.

 

Well in the 80's and 90's our engines operation manuals stated this was how to break the engine in.

What happens when you break the engine in, this way, is the engine is being broke-in under the weight of the car (Creating heat) and how it will be run. Breaking in a engine too rich wont let the engine get hot enough for the parts expand and seat properly. I also don't use a temp meter. Ok what happens when you bring the car in to check the temp? lets say your engine is running at 220* "That's a good thing"but when you bring the car in to check the temp with a meter the meter says 260/270-ish? Your tricked into turning that valve richer to bring down the temps thinking the engine was running lean.

Why this happens: As the car is running air is cooling the engine, the cool air and fuel is drawing the heat out of the engine as it burns and the car runs at 220* but when you bring the car in you slow down the car "The slower the car is going, the less air flow around the cooling head, less cool air intake, less fresh cool fuel intake", equaling less heat removed from the engine, the engine gets the hotter 260/280ish, and it's making you think the engine is running leaner/hotter than it really is so you richen it up even more because of the wrong heat temp, never allowing the parts to get hot enough to expand and seat together. "It takes little heat to expand the alloy piston but it takes a lot of heat to expand the more dense brass sleeve", running to rich from a bad temp reading will not let the sleeve expand and thus the soft alloy of the piston wears down. 

 

LOL Bench break in: Yeah lets put a huge prop on our engine to cool it even more...hahaha.

 

I always break my engines in the way they will be run just 1/16th rich for one tank. After that ready for race settings. PS I have engines that have and are still are running for 30 years. 

Guys saying gallons of fuel before the engine is toast, I am getting decades from my engines. Those guys  toasted their engines by following today's "designed to make money" break in procedures. Repeat sales is always good to a manufacture, I guess. Think about it.

 

 

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  • 1 year later...

There's nothing stopping you going straight into the next stage of your break-in. However mechanical sympathy dictates that it wouldn't hurt to do maybe half a tank at idle to get her warmed up before going into your 1/4 throttle runs, which is probably what i'd do :good:

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  • 4 months later...

Hi guys have realised I'm missing the screw in the picture 🤦 is it a fundamentally needed part? Also are they all pretty much the same part as have a spare engine that I could possibly take it off lol it's the screw that's on the throttle side.. the bit attached to the servo, probably a really dumb question but this is the first nitro iv ran in, in over 10 yrs an a bit foggy with my knowledge

Screenshot_2021-09-05-01-43-08-822_cn.wps.xiaomi.abroad.lite.jpg

Edited by Madmoz7610
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8 hours ago, Madmoz7610 said:

Hi guys have realised I'm missing the screw in the picture 🤦 is it a fundamentally needed part? Also are they all pretty much the same part as have a spare engine that I could possibly take it off lol it's the screw that's on the throttle side.. the bit attached to the servo, probably a really dumb question but this is the first nitro iv ran in, in over 10 yrs an a bit foggy with my knowledge

Screenshot_2021-09-05-01-43-08-822_cn.wps.xiaomi.abroad.lite.jpg

You will need to find out what engine/carb you have then look for spares  or use a whole different carb

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56 minutes ago, turok007 said:

You will need to find out what engine/carb you have then look for spares  or use a whole different carb

It's a old skool Carson Montana 3.5 engine, parts are hard to get as it is lol, gona try an persuade my brother in law to sell me a carb off his blown tomahawk as the engines are pretty similar, jus so we can use it today lol gona buy a 4.6 force engine end of the month so if his carb works IL give him the engine for his tomahawk 🤞 he accepts my offer 🤣

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On 05/09/2021 at 14:35, Madmoz7610 said:

Need to find a 14mm carb now, the pin don't fit out of his car and his spare carb is 1mm to big to fit into my crankcase lol so no Montana until I find a carb that actually fits it 

It should have a Force .21 engine, I’m not a 100% but I think this should fit https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1343902990

 

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8 minutes ago, tomr said:

It should have a Force .21 engine, I’m not a 100% but I think this should fit https://www.ebay.co.uk/p/1343902990

 

Ah that's awesome, bought a used carb off eBay earlier but might get this aswel jus incase the one im gettin has any problems 

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