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Breaking-in your nitro engine.


Samari

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  • 2 weeks later...

If you can run it for 6-7 hours , you can run it in right mate.

Guys, it is not about finishing your first 6 tanks. It is about heat cycling FFS.

Trying to prove a point now (exaggerating) , if you would/could warm up your engine 2 times to 190 F and another 2 times to 210 F WITHOUT starting it, It would be a good start. . . . .

It is about heat CYCLING.

Edited by DLD
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Hey iv just bought a tomohawk st! Iv put about 4 full tanks threw it and now it seems like the servo is stuck on. Everytime i start it it revs its nuts off. Iv turned the tuners on the contoller right down but it doesnt make a difference! Any1 got any advice on how to sort this! Any advive would be apprieciated!

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  • 2 weeks later...

its a ansmann 2.0 virus 21.. engine makes a clonk sound when pulling pull-start,iv just got it,new.any 1 no.as its new ,being tight engine..hummm clonk clonk.never had this sound before with any other nitro.defo not with my baja beast,,, nitro thing,,humm

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I'll be getting my trophy 3.5 on Tuesday ( Hopefully as i ordered on Saturday ) and i will be running the engine in as soon as i get it.

Hopefully it'll be good enough by afternoon for some bashing, If its cold just keep a hair-dryer handy, mrs wont be happy, but it saves many hours of blisters and scuffed knuckles!

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yeah all the "use a lower percentage fuel to break in", is all a load of overblown nonsence...

Just break in your engine with what fuel your going to be running it on, and dont change....

Before starting the engine, id very much recommend preheating the engine to ateast 210 - 220F before starting. to give pre-expansion of the sleve and piston so that pinch and friction is less, giving better life of the engine...

Complete each tank accordingly, shutting the engine off and placing the piston at BDC (bottom dead center) (PIston at the very bottom), during cool down... This allows the sleve to contract fully when cooling, instead of the piston stopping the sleve contracting against it....

Follow simple steps like that, and your engine will give you great performance, and great life span....

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I run in my hpi trophy 3.5 today using the "new" method first 2 tanks gentle between idle and 1/4 throttle then next 2 tanks going up to 1/2 throttle then another 2 tanks going up to full throttle seems a good break in to me kept checking temps all seems good but we'll see how it goes in a few months time :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

started to break in my engine today.... 1/4 throttle 1st tank then 1/4 throttle with short blips of half throttle for next 2 tanks. then the steering went, apon inspection i found 8/10 teeth stripped inside the steering servo. now i have to wait couple of days for new metal geared servo to arrive. tut tut ansmann really nice car (virus 2.0) but not happy with poor quality servo on what id call a important function. (almost crashed into a wall with loss of steering.

p.s. left out the after run oil between tanks.

Edited by greenfingers
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  • 1 month later...

Hiya.

Going attempt my first break in with a Force .32 this weekend.

I intend to follow the new school method.

Currently building an engine warmer.

Will heat to aprox 200 or as close as I can get.

Start model and run at a max of 1/4 throttle for 3 mins and check temp.

Will lean/richen slightly to achieve 200 operating temp

and run max 1/4 throttle for 3 mins, stop engine running and set Piston to bottom dead centre, let it cool to ambient temp and repeat until I have 15-18 mins of runtime.

Then doing the above with 4 min runtimes up too 1/2 throttle for 16-20 min runtime. (preheating each time.

Does this Sound ok?

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  • 2 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

Still got a few noob tuning issues but I'm learning. :alien3:

I think we all still learn something as we go.

I'm breaking in my 6th nitro engine, a ZR.32 Spec2 in my LST2 spec Raminator.

It's a beast, needless to say.

I've measured temps up to 180C before on the ZR30 - recently departed!! - and have considered it pretty hot - too hot really.

You mentioned 200 degrees in an earlier post. Was this C or F?

Al.

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I've made a similar post in the Byron vs OptiFuel thread.

I'd had previous engines running nicely on Byrons, which is known to give less smoke.

The Mach and LRP motors are known to run quite hot, which I consider 160-190C.

Someone mentioned 200 in one post, which if 'C' I think is pretty damned hot.

The new LRP was set on 5.2 / 5.2 - factory settings are 5.25 / 5.5 L/H, so I was going for leaning off a little.

I hadn't realised that the OptiFuel is that much more smokey than the Byrons and was comparing 'apples with apples' in my ignorance.

If and when I pinched the fuel, it died quickly, which is lean on the Low from what I know.

I've increased to 5.75 / 5.25 L/H and it's running nicely, glugging a little on idle (rich slightly unburnt fuel sound) but is steady.

It's had 5 tanks I think this weekend, perhaps 6, so I'll give it a rest for now!!

Al.

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Thought so.

My Machs and LRPs have been getting REALLY hot, going up to 170-180C, so mention of 200 ... !!

I think 220-240F is 'good hot'.

If you're running at 200F then it's absolutely fine, particularly in this warmer weather.

Al.

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